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Will post up pics of the brakes in the process of fitting tomorrow (internet connection at home is too slow for imageshack)

Not much clearance between factory WRX 17" rim & rear suspension arm, but it still clears though.
The other advantage of the kit is that it moved the rear wheels inboard about 5mm or so each so I hopefully am not going to need to get the rear guards pumped, though the inner lip will still need to be rolled.

Need to "clearance" the sway bar mounts to miss the handbrake cable, but doesn't look like too much work.

with 16s mine still needs the rear guards rolled. what are you using for the handbrake lever? ( I grabbed a liberty item a few days back.)

I'm still working on using the factory L item.
I've got access to another rotten shell which I'm going to tip on its side with the rear suspension & tailshaft still in place.

Going to then massacre the spare L lever I've got.
Basically aiming to run a single cable up the trans tunnel & then split into 2 in the void under the rear seat.

I had a really crazy idea of simply running the Lib cables up the sills & then joint them to the L cables which are gently looped around somehow.
Absolutely no lever mods at all!! But you'd have an exposed joining of the cables. Plus they're not protected up in the trans tunnel.

Radiator clearance (about 50mm!!!)

that'll work! you have a 17" wheel uder there by the look of it. what is clearance like at teh guard?

ummm, how's what clearance grab you?
I have another set of rims on at the moment with tyres.
Mind you, the front of the car is on stands & there's no weight in it either, so its sitting about 100mm higher than where I will want it to be, so a bit of neg camber may occur yet.

I thought it was tight. mine with 16" is going to nudge the guards. if you look in the pic of mine the rear is barely on hte ground. it has a 10-12" jack under it as well. my idea is to sit it 1" lower than std.

I've had new brake line made up for the rear end to suit the disc brake rear trailing arms.

Also, I've had this brilliant idea with the help of a friend where you use the existing L handbrake & cables, plus the EJ cables
How's this for a handbrake idea
No mods required to the factory lever.
No mods required to the centre console
No extra holes to be drilled all the way through the floor.

Extra mounts for the cables are required though.

There is no bindage with this setup (ie the cables aren't on too tight a bend)
Now to figure out how to join the 2 cables together....

I like the idea. I made a plate steel bracket and bolted a WRX item to it. form there I drilled the plate so original holes could be used to secure it. have to run the idea by the fellow plating the car though.

just a thought..

since you have done that- a suggestion: go see a cable maker and get them to make up the ENTIRE cable length with the appropriate ends on it.

I'm going to take 2 sample cables to a cable doctor tomorrow.
I'll ask the question about making up one.
I'm a little dubious about reproducing the end where it fits into the EJ backing plates...

I really would've liked to have used a leather Lib RS turbo lever, but it just doesn't match the console (for a Vortex on the other hand)

The sedan shell copped a bit of a massacring tonight via a 9" grinder:mad:

convertible anyone?
short wheelbase anyone.
Aiming to take it to Sims on Fri so I can recoup some cash:D

wagonist wrote:The sedan shell copped a bit of a massacring tonight via a 9" grinder:mad:

convertible anyone?
short wheelbase anyone.
Aiming to take it to Sims on Fri so I can recoup some cash:D

A VL shell is only worth $17. Yeap $17. Better off getting sims to come get it for free.

meh, I needed to take some frustration out on something anyway.
And I couldn't bash it anymore as it didn't have a straight panel left.

Was $17 just for a bare shell, or rolling, or what? I've got a lot of other metal to go with it.
Beside $17 is at least 3 beers at the pub.

Went to the cable doctor today.
It took a while to explain to him that I only wanted the cable inners joined, not both cables together. Which turns out that while its doable, its most likely not legal or engineerable.

New cable inner is $47ea, or a complete new assembly is $80ea. So that's $160.
Still going to think about a floating metal bracket that fits onto each cable end though. Just going to have to seal it in.

see other post. I worked it out. and it looks OEM.

have a look at a vw beetle hand brake setup, they use a plate to join both cables together just under the handbrake cable. Might be useable.

$17 for just a shell. If you can get a car float for nothing then it could be worth it. Let me know how you go?

fark in perth u can grab at least 40bucks for a shell? they are real tight over there

Currently getting custom handbrake cables made up.
They will be as long as the combined length of the Lib & L cable, with the L end at the handbrake end, with the Lib fitting at the other.
Hopefully should be picking them up tomorrow & we'll then see how they fit.

Ok, been a while, mainly because the project has had nothing done to it.

Handbrake cables have been made up but not fitted yet (first week in new year job).

I've basically given up on putting the EJ motor in. I've had too much hassle trying to get all the coolers in the front, plus fans.
I'm going to try a different tack by installing a H6 motor instead. I will still have radiator to engine clearance issues, but without the need to fit an intercooler radiator in with the A/C, I could fit the fans in between the rad & A/C.
Plus I'm in the need for a tow car for the rally car project I'm trying to do (too many projects at the moment...) & the 3.0L 6 cylinder would be a better bet for this.

So, if anyone is chasing an early WRX engine with ECU & wiring, plus a Lib water-air intercooler...
Also, if you know where I can source an early H6 motor & wiring (prob half cut better)...?