My GT2 wagon

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 6:59 am

they are 96 WRX splines - shaft is on the end and presses into the diff so no pin.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:55 pm

more images:
(courtesty of a nokia n70!)

minutes after dropping the engine in place. the three of us were thinking - no way in hell but it fell literally into place with a clunk.

some reassembly - the front it mocked up so I can route a vac hose that runs across the front of the car and to a vac canister on the passenger side. without the front on its hard to do.

side shot. the front guard is mounted. that stays. the inner plastic one is out and will stay out until I get a few things under there tidied. for the most part its done on that side.

- this was a bit of boredom as the front panel willl have to come off again.

that said the front suspension is in place and I can steer it. every thing lines up perfectly. the front swaybar is still disconnected so I can put the transmission in and mount that. wiring wise most of it is plugged in.

one trap to watch is the Oxy sensor - remove it or lose it when you lower the engine in.

how big (diameter and a pic pls) is the RX item? I have a feeling mine is std wagon fare and not a heavy one.

the rear brakes go in next. (thats next sat arvo/sunday.)

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 12:12 am

The import Oxy sensor is a bitch isn't it...
Managed to get my engine in with it still attached, somehow.

Amazed me too, that when it's sitting there, it looks like it was always meant to.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:32 am

I wasn't about to try. the thing looked like it was going to hit so up the whole lot came and out it went.

crane is holding the engine upright still (no box - midweek probably.) until I can get back to it.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:55 pm

after 5 hrs of fiddling the entire lot is together!

engine sits caddy corner for some reason - probably due to the fact I had to drop the x member out to get eng/box in as a full assembly. so that the drivers ball joint will not seat properly.

things that happened today:

front shafts are on
need to replace a ball joint on the drivers side
a rear wheel bearing is stuffed so that needs doing
rear brakes are assembled with ADR braided lines. have a bit of fiddling to do there still.
need to MAJORLY shorten the drive shaft - 130 mm I think!
front end FULLY assembled (inner guards are out so I can re-harness the drivers side.
looked at steering problem - need to shorten colunm to fit forester linkage (thanks jeff - have not forgotten)
trail fitted radiator - VERY tight fit but it goes in.
started hooking things up for final time and tidying.

still to do:

sort out rear brake lines, remove rear bias valve (up for grabs btw!) and rework lines up front to fit onto BG5 bias valve located in front. (anyone got the layout of the liberty bias valve?)

handbrake - need to rejig it so it fits on the OEM mount points. route cables to it with mounting tabs.
wire HB to dash and trans shifter to dash
sort out electrics under dash and mount TCU,ECU on custom brackets.
tidy up driver side body harness to outside of car and reterminate the BG5 item (going to remove the SMJ plug) and get the ENTIRE dash working properly. (need a solution for the oil pressure gauge - help!)

from there I'm going to do the fuse panel on the outside and remove the L fuse links.

car is on the ground and to me sits 1-2" lower than it did before due to the extra weight of the EJ20H + auto vs the EA82t and 5sp. suits me as I dont have to lower it.

need a pic of a AUTO L from underneath where the radius rods tie in so I can work out how to remove the manual x member that will not fit into place due to thetrans pan being in the way.

will keep this updated.

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:25 pm

Oil Pressure gauge? What do you mean by that? If you mean how to mount the sender, Click here

I'm changing my setup to a later model pump with a remote reservoir for a bit more clearance for the rad.

I'd love to see a pic of your rad setup & clearance.

As for removing the manual gearbox crossmember, simply undo the single bolt at each end & remove it. The only diff between an auto & manual is that the auto has shorter bolts because that crossmember is simply missing.

Not surprised your car is sitting lower, the auto is a heavy bastard.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:37 pm

yep thats my problem! I'll have to look at clearances as I have a few more things there I think. other than that you may have sold it.

I'll take a snap of the clearance when I get the car to my workshop (next
few days.)

re the box crossmember - thats fine but do I use shorter bolts with a BIG washer to hold the rod support in?

(never mind I just worked it out. shorter bolts with a big washer.)

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:20 am

It's designed to fit in that corner & miss all the belts & pulleys.
Sorry, didn't take a pic with it all together.
The wire that goes from the oil pressure idiot light sender (under the alternator) needs to be extended to this point.

Do you still have the manual front crossmember?
might be able to work a bit of a swap as I'm redoing mine.

PS FYI, if you want the modified adaptor that goes between the sender & the block (they're not the same thread), that'd be a little extra (cost of the part from Pirtek)

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:52 pm

still have it. and dont need it. I saw the adapting bit so with a bit of fiddling I can do it.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:05 pm

Chris one mistake i made was with the pitch rod.i shorten it ,welded it up looks factory.the problem is the l mount on the body is offset to the drivers side the liberty mounts straight in the middle at the moment the rubber bush takes up the angle.Mark II will be offset to take the strain off the rubber mount.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:32 pm

ok mine is the stock legacy one. all bolts up fine. didnt notice th L one being offset.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:45 pm

sorry to go 'off thread' , but Chris ma-a-a-ate - how's that transfer goin'

Jono

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 9:00 pm

EVERYTHING moves this week.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:45 pm

so ...I can organise the welcoming committee down south next week ???????

ta,

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 12:16 pm

Chris_Rogers wrote:ok mine is the stock legacy one. all bolts up fine. didnt notice th L one being offset.

Ditto. If you need to mod it, then measure it up & go searching round the various subes.
ie the different cars had different length rods, even different Generations, particularly as the mount is n the firewall.
Change the firewall means change the rod.

Mine is all plastic as well. I don't think its got any rubber.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:20 pm

update,

I have 90% of the electrics going!
cliamte control runs - inside fan works - no outside ones yet. still need to shorten that harness and the vac lines majorly though.

fuel pump fires and turns off after a few seconds - alt light comes up chk eng comes up and if I had the torqconverter in I reckkon it would start.

still a mess in the drivers floor though hopelfully by the weeks end I'll have that tidied.

still to sort out TCS/ABS system. unit has power but I have a few strange wires on it still that I need to sort. i also still need the rear section of a WRX ABS harness (help!!)

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:36 pm

Might be able to source you the wiring down here.
What model WRX?
It'd be a complete rear loom though, severely doubt wreckers will allow to strip the ABS part out.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:39 pm

96 or so. only need the shielded wiring to the rear with retaining clipsm and plugs. sensors I have came from a 96.

after teh pump primes what is the trigger to turn it on full time? ( crank angle sensor or the like?)

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:48 pm

There won't be any wreckers anywhere that'll let you strip out those wires & buy those separately. Not for anything that new.
Just warning you that there will be a complete loom. I'll ask around & get back to you.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Wed Nov 22, 2006 7:02 am

thanks for that.