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well i've post all over the place in the past and thought i would have one thread for my vortex. for showing it off and asking for help

so it started its life with me as a EA82 mpfi FWD, not running.
well we all know how great it would be in that condition?.... i didnt even try to get it to run.

first in was a L series touring wagon rearend with a diff ratio i could match to a EJ awd box.

then there was a EJ25 dohc that i tryed to get running with EJ22 wiring and ecu, which it could work. i just gave up.

then i bought a 91 liberty heritage sedan, EJ22 and 3.9 awd box. i bought the car for the gearbox but have now chosen to use the 22 instead of the 2.5.

so here is how it stands of today,





some little facts
-engine crossmember needs dropping atleast 25mm
-mix and matching of EJ and the stock shifter linkages work and clear the tailshaft (cut-shut-weld)
-4 holes need to be made for the diff hanger bolts (to body), they are easy to spot were to drill.
-i chopped the lower radiator support to use the EJ radiator, other wise its to tall.

some things still to be done
-L series tail shaft needs to be shortened 80mm and bearing mount made for centre bearing.
-i need to have another crack and EJ wiring, its not firing at the moment. has spark and fuel, i think i've missed a ground somewhere.
-the standard star style mags i have but need nuts ggggrrrrrhhhhhh
-coil overs to be modded to get me a little low, needed in the back!
im thinking of turning down some solid alloy to match the inners of the FOOT of the coil over, then turned down to fit the inner of the EA hubs. weld the solid inserts into the coilover FEET (the lower section that screws onto the coilover and bolts to the hub) and welded in place.
a grub screw may be needed in the front to stop the FOOT un screwing when taking corners. but in my mind it sould work
vvvvv picked them up for $70 from upullit northern yard

well if your still reading thanks for meeting my car.

shuffbag wrote:well if your still reading thanks for meeting my car.

Yeah we are!

Nice colour, is it factory or respray - I'm going with a respray as I've never seen them in that blue from the factory!

Can't wait to see the final package - sleep style

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie

looks fantastic mate! seeing your awesome vortex makes me want to get mine done even more!

great looking vortex mate, you can never beat a stylish door wedge
have you thought of doing a 5 stud conversion?
and i know where thunder is coming from, cant wait to get my roof fixed so i can start working on my engine so i can drive it lol

good luck with the vortex buddy

colour is all factory
i have most gear for the 5 stud conversion but i am keeping it looking completely stock from out side, other than lowering a little and factory mags.

first thing
- EJ engine check light, im guessing from the ecu it goes to a led with the other side of the led going to ground?

or question 2, ej looms when trimed down how many grounds were added?

i've trimmed the loom down to it only having the ground from the main ignition relay and the ones from the main engine plug (the smaller of the three). and im guessing my no run problems may be related to a missing ground or two?

im hoping for a simple look HERE before i start on manauls

Would love to see pic of the chopping you did to the lower rad support.
Great little project:)

no no no you dont...
its like square section all along the lower rad support, all i did was remove the top and some of the rear. i then hammered the rear down over the lower (newly) exposed center. drilled two holes so i could locate the radiator pins.

i would weld some thick angle across it if i pull the radiator again. just to make it stronger.

I don't remember adding any earths when I cut down my loom, I just used what was already there.

Cheers

Bennie

hmmm i have trimmed it back and only have the earth from the main realy, i think there should be more than that one on the loom side of things?

thats not including the stuff thats grounded via the manifold (one of the 3 main plugs)

shuffbag wrote:hmmm i have trimmed it back and only have the earth from the main realy, i think there should be more than that one on the loom side of things?

So long as all the earth wires in the loom are a part of this main earth point you should be sweet. I'm pretty sure I had one common earth wire in the loom where all the other earth wires connected to from factory, I just cut off the ones I didn't need.

I don't recall having multiple earth wires where I didn't need to.

Probably best to double check it before you wrap it all up. If you can do a test run and it goes as it should I don't see a problem with the earth wiring...

Cheers

Bennie

I recently got a one piece tailshaft made for a brumby 5 speed conversion and it was cost me $300 at adelaide drive shaft services in (wingfield?). I know that is overcapitalising but it saves you mucking around with the centre crossmember, is all new, and came with some sort of Nissan/ holden unis that are rebuildable. the same with wheelnuts, I got brandnew pug nuts made at galpro engineering in cavan and they charged me $12 each the only difference form the originals is they upgraded to a better quality of materials. once again $12 each sounds like a lot but the quality is excellent, and they are a two piece nut.
anyway I just thought I'd tell you how I solved two of the problems you have to deal with

my tail shaft is being done at the same place at the moment, just shortening the 2 peice will cost about $150. the center mount wont be a issue.
wheel nuts i just picked up today,would have been about $30 but with express delivery cost $55.

all i need now is a solution to my wiring. it is driving me crazy. i cant see why it isnt working.

well minor update.

still couldnt start it this morning, so i went in search of a noid light (to test injector wiring).
REPCO didnt have any or know what i was talking about, so i looked for a fuel pressure gauge.... they didnt have that either.
so i went to SPRINTS they didnt have the noid light, but have ordered me a kit containing about 6 common noid lights. they did have a fuel pressure gauge kit, so i grab that.

i get home and T it in, power up the ecu with the green plugs conected cycling it through everything..... fuel pressure needle doesnt even move. un screw the gauge from the T peice no fuel even flows out!!!
with a air gun i blow back through the fuel line, gives me nothing when i give the pump power. go to the back and disconect the pressure side of the pump, fuel doesnt flow out. give it some power still nothing.
so i pull off the low pressure side and fuel comes flowing from the tank.
i guess my brand new pump bought through REPCO, a clone of a bosch VL pump had died before even being used. this might be why my ej25 wasnt running right either?

so can anyone recomend a good external pump as a replacement? maybe a common pump that i could buy tomorrow? (its sunday tomorrow)

well i went with a tryed and trusted (but loud) bosch VL turbo pump (well NA and turbo both use the same pump). plump it in, run the pump to get pressure. first turn of the key it starts

i should have never doubted my wiring.... well i guess i've gainned some tools from this.
as soon as i get the tailshaft, its full steam ahead. i'll upload a little clip once i tidy the wiring and change the engine mounts. didnt look and they have the locator pins

well its been a while and the car was running great..... also almost got me in troble with some boys in blue, but thats another story.

but i fear not having a vss or even a check engine light are my down falls.it runs great for like 15 minutes then its almost as if it cuts fuel under load (even light load). put the clutch in and it revs fine but little load and it cuts fuel/ jerks along which is abit stupid looking taking off from lights.

so my idea rather than pop the dash i will connect the ej vss, tacho and maybe check engine light in to the wiring left behind from the ea82 ecu wiring? or does that seem to easy?

so can some one point me towards a 85 ea82 efi ecu pin out?

well its been a while and a vortex has taken a turn for the worse.

i thought my engine had died, so today i replaced it with the one from my liberty. still no good, same problems.
with the engine i brought along ignighter/afm and ecu so it was all a matched set, worked fine for months in the liberty.

the only thing that remained the same was the ecu to engine loom.... so im guessing this is where my problem is, tomorrow im going to pull the loom from the liberty and see how i go.

does this sound reasonable?

Or fuel pump?

when you say 'died' .... a donk can die in many ways , what were the symptoms ?

If you go back to the basics of spark or fuel , you gotta tell us you have spark or not, if you do, then aerostart or start ya bastard type products come in - even WS40 , CRC556 work. Have a brave fire retardent individual spray it into the intake while you turn the key. Fuel pump, pressure is properly tested as a T into the line rather than at the end of the line - about 36 psi is about normal

Has spark and does run (idle), it seems to only die when under load.
Fuel pressure is around 36, however drops to below 10 and stalls when reving.

Wife's on my ass, need a reliable car I think this ones gotta be passed on