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Yep Doug did a great job.

I'm thinking the engine may actually be more responsive at low revs now. I have less problems with my heavy duty clutch wanting to argue with the flywheel, when I have to ride the clitch on a hilly intersection.

TOONGA

I'm having a problem with my EJ22 it has an intermittent start fault cold or hot

the engine will crank and nothing, then when I crank it again it backfires, then when I crank it runs like it has flooded. (which it has)

I've changed ...

The coolant temp sender (new)

the knock sensor (new)

the crank angle sensor (working second hand unit)

the cam angle sensor (working second hand unit)

the igniter (working second hand unit)

the coil pack (working second hand unit)

the afm (working second hand unit)

the O2 sensor (working second hand unit)

the ECU (working second hand unit) both have been reset

the ignition relay (working second hand unit) and the franken relay
And my car still does it

I'm going to check to see if the timing belt is lined up tomorrow if I have a rain free period. (it is the only thing I can think of)

TOONGA

Yeah I was going to say maybe the cam sprocket has slipped a few teeth on the belt.

So I just had a total WTF moment... I pulled the plug lead on number 1 and put a screwdriver in to check for spark ... nothing on crank, so I moved the screwdriver and I tried again I got spark and the car ran on the other 3 cylinders.

I tried to put the lead back on but the engine stalled before I could get it back to the plug. Once again when cranking nothing, the car won't run and the bolts holding the cam covers on are spinning due to the plastic breaking around the lugs. I have given up due to rain and total frustration.

It is definitely not fuel as the plugs are drowned somewhere in the electrical/spark department there is a problem that I cannot diagnose.

TOONGA

Check your ground strap. Also check the resistance thru the lead while manipulating it. IF it changes at all, throw it in the bin.

Regards

Doug

I got one of the cam covers off and the timing belt it still on, whether it is in place or not remains to be seen. Maybe tomorrow after work if it isn't raining I can get the other side off and see where the marks are. Looking at the belt though I may need to fork out for a for a kit soon

/ EDIT

Rain stopped long enough for me to get the other cover off... when the left (passenger) cam wheel is lined up the right cam wheel (drivers) is 2 teeth out and I got the same result when I tried to line them up the other way

TOONGA

So still no progress on starting this engine

I have the timing covers off and finally got the crank pulley off, and it seems the timing is all in line WTF. Probably would be a good idea to put a belt kit through this, as it appears to be the original subaru timing belt. Even though the engine has recon heads.

In the meantime I'm back at sensors and anything else thats electrical. That is when the battery is fully charged it hasn't liked sitting for two weeks.

TOONGA

Might be time to look at the condition of the injectors

Cheers

Bennie

Ok so it is a month later and I had a visit from RSR555 today and much progress was made. A big thanks as well for fitting the belt for me.

I decided to buy a timing kit from EBAY USA as one from subaru would've cost more than what I paid for the car, just about

Which we installed today no pictures of that as we were both putting bits into the car.

As well my new radiator went in, I have pictures of that as it is a mazdaradiator that was modified a little that works a treat.

the radiator

with new inlet and outlet pipes



test fit Sooooooo much more rooooooom oh wait the front of the motor is off



in and running like a bought one



the ninja approach to holding a radiator in place



It works a treat

Thanks again Paul

TOONGA

So that rad squeezes in under that top panel where the old one sat behind it? That wouldve give. you about an extra inch clearance, very cool What is the rad from and how thick is it? Never mind followed your link... Thats what ive been wanting to do with my car for a while to free up some space, that one might fit too.

What I did to get it to fit was to cut the original mazda mount points off, then I cut the bottom structural / support panel of the radiator down by 5mm on both "rails" and the back one on the top rail. I don't have photos of that sorry. I thought I took some but I can't find them.

And it is definitely squeezed in there, it goes in and comes out but it is a fun little fit.

TOONGA

So I got home from work today and I'm under the bonnet marvelling at my radiator install and I see water leaking out of "SOMEWHERE?!!??!"

first and most obvious thing to do check all the hose clamps and my solder joints ... clamps are a little loose but not leaking niether are my solder joints.

Under closer scruitiny I notice the water is coming from the bottom of the drivers side end tank, nowhere near my soldering. seems who ever soldered the radiator up either missed a spot or it didn't solder properly.

So now I have a choice to make a radiator stop leak either silver seal or the copper brand, or pull the radiator out and find and fix the leak.

grumble grumble grumble

TOONGA

That sucks mate, I hope its an easy repair. An egg down the throat does the job to .

How are those headers holding up? no leaks or cracks?

Regards

Doug

Headers are doing great Doug, Paul loved the sound they made when we went for a drive.

Black or white ground pepper is another small leak fix. I found out years ago that a certain well know brand of stop leak was chook pellets egg white and pepper.

I bought the copper seal from the local parts store.

I should really pull the radiator out and re solder the leak.

sighs...

TOONGA

So this has happened 2 mornings in a row around 8-10 degrees celsius both mornings.

turn the ignition nothing... it won't start, turn it off and back on for the fun to begin.

Damn thing starts ok in the afternoon on the second turn of the ignition.

any ideas

TOONGA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewSC0qQ ... e=youtu.be

There's a few things to check :

• How old is the Battery ?
• Battery holding charge correctly ?
• Alternator OK ?
• Do you have a relay to the Starter ?
• Faulty / corroded wiring ?
• Bad ignition switch ?
• Earth leakage ?

Could be any number / combination of these ...

Ciao, Bantum ...

Alternator is charging at recommended voltage. battery is good was on trickle charge prior to refitting timing kit. no relay to starter (not needed) wiring is good.

If you listen I'm sure there is a relay clicking while the engine won't start. which on the second start dissapears when the gerchug gerchug gerchug starts.

I've changed the ignition relay but I need to wait until tomorrow morning (when it is cold) to see if that solves the problem.

TOONGA

Could be your starter solenoid Jules. My old van one day did a similar thing. Then over the next few weeks it got to the point of spending half an hour clicking away. I pulled it apart and silver soldered the contacts back up and it worked flawlessly thereafter. Could also explain the weak cranking power because all the power for the starter goes thru the solenoid. If it does it again try a screwdriver across the solenoid and see if it cranks normally. It probably only does it in the cold morning because the battery is cold and cant put out the amps like when its warmed up from the engine and the sun out in the car park.

Regards

Doug

Ok this afternoon it cranked and cranked and wouldn't start 3 times without a start then on the 4th try away she went.

Im going to try another starter and another battery.

I have a sneaking suspicion I could have an unhappy fuel pump.

TOONGA

I dont think a bad fuel pump would cause the sluggish cranking .

Doug