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Dobo's L series(and maybe something else)
Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 12:24 pm
by dobo
Well i've been looking around for quite a while now, and finally found a subbie to call my own. Fairly Straight car, Full Bumper bar, minimal rust, paint flaky in places. its on its second engine with the clock saying 320k. and for only $390!

Here she is in her natural habitat

got her home and gave her a real good clean out

It even came with a home made hydrogen cell that if working would boost the economy to a calimed 4L/100Km, ill have to read up on this :P
The nice fellow i bought it off said that this CV joint made noise at more than 80Km/H

I took it to 100 and didnt feel/hear anything, looks like the rubber has just ripped/torn, not too sure yet.
anyway for the plans
*Full Service
*Roadworthy and Rego(of course)
*2" Lift
*Driving Lights
*14" sunraysias and all terrain tyres
*maybe a respray down the track
Then after a while ill probably look into doing an EJ20/22 conversion
Fun times ahead!!
Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 12:48 pm
by sven '2'
Congrats
Was this one off ebay?
Can't see any rust?
Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 12:50 pm
by sven '2'
answered my own Q - good buying!
Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 7:57 pm
by dobo
cheers, very minimal surface rust is all I've encountered so far, apart from the exhaust which I'm replacing tomorrow. I hope to book in to get a road worthy check this week and see what else needs doing.
Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 2:31 pm
by dobo
So the front CV has started to make noise finally. I take it dirt has gotten into the bearing?I'm looking just to get this off ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... ink:top:en
has anyone had any experience with this?
also the guy i bought it of said the boots went because of the heat from the exhaust being so close, has anyone else encountered that?
cheers
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:53 pm
by El_Freddo
dobo wrote:So the front CV has started to make noise finally. I take it dirt has gotten into the bearing?I'm looking just to get this off ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... ink:top:en
has anyone had any experience with this?
also the guy i bought it of said the boots went because of the heat from the exhaust being so close, has anyone else encountered that?
cheers
Dunno about the quality of those shafts, there's one way to find out though

Or FROG on here can help sort you out with some parts.
Looks like a good buy with a lot of potential! I see you've already got power steering as standard, that's a bonus!
I'd be removing that hydrogen kit before you take it in for a road worthy - I don't think they'd like that much. Probably best to make it from something that can handle heat better than PVC pipe can... And do some reading on the subject if you haven't already.
There's loads of info on here for all aspects of this model of subaru, so don't hesitate to hit up the search function!
Cheers
Bennie
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:08 pm
by sven '2'
Have just re-read this thread.
Seriously, what is the bottle and PVC for??
Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 12:34 am
by RSR 555
dobo wrote:
It even came with a home made hydrogen cell that if working would boost the economy to a calimed 4L/100Km, ill have to read up on this :P
sven '2' wrote:Have just re-read this thread.
Seriously, what is the bottle and PVC for??
I'm guess this is a clue
dobo wrote:anyway for the plans
*Full Service
*Roadworthy and Rego(of course)
*2" Lift
*Driving Lights
*14" sunraysias and all terrain tyres
*maybe a respray down the track
Then after a while ill probably look into doing an EJ20/22 conversion
Fun times ahead!!
Nice.. pretty standard mods without too many issue.. keep us updated

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 10:20 am
by dobo
Yeah I've ripped out the PVC pipe already, will use the inline fuse and wires from it for my cargo bay cigarette lighter i think.
My friend works at Bursons, so I've just put in my first(of many) orders for her to get me, employees get some ridiculous saving like 50-60%!
El_Freddo wrote:
There's loads of info on here for all aspects of this model of subaru, so don't hesitate to hit up the search function!
It's a little weird how I've been working on her a little bit over the last few days, and everything feels familiar somehow, I've soaked up a lot of info from this site already, and I'm sure will continue to do so

Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 5:38 pm
by dobo
Well i just got her back from the road worthy test. The list includes:
front RH CV
rear RH CV drive shaft is not pinned?
muffler
front brakes
various lights and blinker plastic cover.
looks like a trip to the wreckers!
not too bad i think, at least i don't need tires and a windscreen!
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 3:36 pm
by dobo
Just a little update and a question. I put the CV in yesterday, with a bit of help from the forum

I was told both front CV's were done about 10,000kms ago

not sure what happened to the boots!
I still have to source a retention pin for the rear cv, looks like i'll have to go and knock one out of a car at the wreckers. does anyone know if these would be the same in a MY or liberty, as my local doesnt have any L's.
so far the tally on parts is $750 inc the car, going for on the road under 1K

Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 5:20 pm
by thelman
keep it up
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 4:24 pm
by dobo
so a little step today, i got one rotor on but its way to tight to the pads and wont move, not sure if its the pads or not.
also she was running a bit bad so i did a compression test and one cylinder is down.

seems to be the piston rings, so looks like im taking the head off
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 4:53 pm
by TOONGA
Im hoping that you turned the piston to reset it, not just pushed it in. if you haven't done this then thats why the brakes are locked on.
page 208 of the brakes section
http://rapidshare.com/files/369419396/16_-_brakes.pdf
TOONGA
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 8:00 pm
by guyph_01
Get a second hand engine. Might be cheaper. And save the money to go EJ later:)
Yeah those brake pistons need to be screwed back in. You can do it with long nose pliers?)
Keep on working on it, they are such great cars. Keep the pics coming...
Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 11:19 pm
by El_Freddo
This is the cam gear inside the calliper that is the reason for screwing the piston back in:
^ If you've got a torn dust seal (only half of mine can be seen in this pic - tore the rest off) you could have crap in there that will aid with holding the piston on the caliper. This is what happened to me and the reason why I've got this pic. My brakes are getting a serious going over in the next couple of weeks.
Cheers
Bennie
Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 4:05 pm
by dobo
So, I finally got back up to greendale wheres she's being stored for the moment.
brakes went on alot easier now i knew about the piston :P i quickly pressed through these and had a celebratory beer!

adam/fatz is sending me a couple cv pins, but until then...
i ran a subaru upper engine cleaner through the engine and did another compression test and it seems the problem cylinder is back up

might have just needed the pit of oil on the piston after sitting for so long
downside is some idiot(me) cross threaded the piston so now while i wait to get a tap to fox this I decided to get rid of all the green moss under the panels
cheers for advice guys
Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 5:36 pm
by El_Freddo
dobo wrote:downside is some idiot(me) cross threaded the piston
I'm guessing you mean spark plug...
Glad you got the brakes sorted! And my rear shafts are held in by 2 cable ties - have been for a long time now without issue.
Cheers
Bennie
Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 6:36 pm
by dobo
yeah spark plug lol
the cable ties work great, i just need the pin when getting a road worthy.

Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:13 pm
by dobo
So while I'm getting the head fixed i though i might as well do all the belts, and give the front a nice clean, also get the bullbar powdercoated.
so it all came off, and what a lovely winter day it was

then with a little bit of convincing the head came off

the head gets a halo-coil put in tmrw, then its reassembly time!