My Vortex Project

Show off your car to other members. Tell us a bit about it. What mods you have got now or planned.
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Johnny T
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My Vortex Project

Post by Johnny T » Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:58 pm

Hey every 1, Im new to this site and I have a 1987 Subaru Vortex AWD Turbo.

This is my new pride and joy that I bought off my uncle as a project car.
My plans for this are to bring this car back to life and slowly turn it into a show car.

If you guys have a few ideas on what I should fix or change please let me know.

Here are a few photos, I know it doesn't look too good now but I plan to rebuilt this car within 2-3 years.

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Post by brumbyrunner » Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:14 am

Welcome Johnny T.
Boy have you got your work cut out for you. I hope it was cheap.
You going for the "restore it to original" or "upgrade everything to modern gear" route?
Do you know if it's Aust. delivered or an import? Reason is, I've never seen what looks to be a charcoal Vortex. Or has it been painted?
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Post by AlpineRaven » Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:51 am

Nice ride mate and awesome find, yes keep us updated and what are your plans for it? Like what BrumbyRunner sasid - How are you gonna restore it?
Cheers
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Post by steptoe » Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:29 am

EA82T AWD - jealous already. Charcoal? Maybe dusty black?

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Post by Outback bloke » Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:48 am

Hmmm, a black one. Not many of them around in that colour. The only problem I can see you are going to have is finding the garnish that goes around the dash near the steering wheel. They are quite rare.

Keep the pics coming as you do it up.

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Post by TOONGA » Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:49 am

welcome to the board nice ride

can I steal your gearbox for my brumby?

and thats a nice find by the way

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Johnny T
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:15 am

Hey all, thanks for the reply's, lol yer i know this is gonna be hard to rebuild to original, though it doesn't have much power but I was thinking of maybe of putting a larger turbo on it, as I know very little about these motors or turbos but I do know finding a larger turbo on it is going to be very difficult to find.

As brumbyrunner, I'm not sure if it is an import, if I look at the ID tag would that tell me if that is an import? I hope it is :)

The car is going to need a respray because it does have a few cracks on it, and yes this is the original paint :) I would like to respray this in yellow but as Outback Bloke said "Hmmm, a black one. Not many of them around in that colour" so I might as well keep it black :)

On regards to Alpine Raven how I am going to restore it? well not sure how to but just see if I can find parts and replace / repair the ones that are already broken. But if you have any advice please let me know cos any help would be much appreciated :)

Thanks steptoe, it is a great motor, consider that my uncle never drove the car for 5 years and the motor still runs great lol

To show you how much work the motor is going to need work I have attached a small photo, waring: This is one of the dirtiest motors I have ever seen. :P

Thanks all and I'll keep you posted when I can

[img][IMG]http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii99 ... g~original[/img][/IMG]

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Johnny T
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:18 am

Ey Toonga, lol you may not steel my gear box, but i know a person who has a manual gearbox for a brumby, I'll ask them if they want to sell it, just send me a PM and I'll get back to you.

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Post by TOONGA » Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:15 pm

Johnny thats ok I have a spare 4wd box but I want a AWD box (ahahahahahaaaahaah)

they are no easy to come by unless $$$$$$$$ are involved

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Post by someguy » Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:58 pm

That engine looks to be in pretty good nick.

Just get a can of degreaser and polish it up a bit and it will look like new (maybe even get it steam cleaned)
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Post by steptoe » Tue Mar 09, 2010 6:02 pm

one of those aluminium compliance plates riveted to the firewall should indicate f it was Aus delivered new. Should say complies with ADR's blah, blah , blah

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Post by brumbyrunner » Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:20 am

My apologies for starting the whole import question. It looked charcoal to me, like the RX Turbo colour of the same year and we didn't get them. But Outback Bloke, another closet Vortex fan, picked it correctly as black. It's just very dirty and faded. Plus the imports would be 6 cylinders.
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Johnny T
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Post by Johnny T » Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:49 pm

No stress brumbyrunner :) lol I wish it was the XT6 but this is still a great car to drive, if I get some time this weekend I'll get some more photos to post up.

I do have one question though, would anyone be able to tell me where I would be able to find a new window wiper mechanism for it because it doesn't work, I've tried a few wrekers and they don't seem to have any.

Thanks again
Johnny T

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Post by Suby Roo » Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:55 pm

Johnny T wrote:No stress brumbyrunner :) lol I wish it was the XT6 but this is still a great car to drive, if I get some time this weekend I'll get some more photos to post up.

I do have one question though, would anyone be able to tell me where I would be able to find a new window wiper mechanism for it because it doesn't work, I've tried a few wrekers and they don't seem to have any.

Thanks again
Johnny T
May be the same as an l series, But if not, PM subius as i know he has a parts car vortex.
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Post by TOONGA » Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:58 pm

LOL Suby Roo took the post right out of my keyboard

vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=828

subius is in Tasmania and is wrecking an early vortex

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Post by Johnny T » Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:05 pm

Thanks for the info guy :) but would you guys know how much shipping would cost from tas to vic?

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Post by brumbyrunner » Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:01 pm

Probably different to L series. Vortex only has one wiper arm.
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Post by maxxair » Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:00 am

the wreckers in Lismore NSW has a vortex. pretty old but pretty complete (well, was) they were reasonable priced when i pinched the rear brakes I think they were called hillside from memory. cheers mate, all the best with it
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Post by Chris_Rogers » Sat Mar 13, 2010 12:02 pm

Johnny T wrote:No stress brumbyrunner :) lol I wish it was the XT6 but this is still a great car to drive, if I get some time this weekend I'll get some more photos to post up.

I do have one question though, would anyone be able to tell me where I would be able to find a new window wiper mechanism for it because it doesn't work, I've tried a few wrekers and they don't seem to have any.

Thanks again
Johnny T


boss wrecking tingalpa. they have a full car there.
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Post by Chris_Rogers » Sat Mar 13, 2010 12:05 pm

also on the import thing:

if it is AX7-000000 then its a import. they did surface as a 4 cyl as well.

if he had an XT6 then I dare say most of us would have ripped the rear out of it long ago. (I did!)
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:27 am

Hey everyone, sorry i haven't been on here in awhile, thanks everyone for the input and im trying to find a local wrecker that has parts but its kinda tricky so I gotta keep looking :)

just an update on the car, I didn't spend too much time on the car yesterday but I did come up with some problems with it and I have know idea how to fix it + I'm not sure if this is a common problem too.
When I started the car a little bit of white smoke came out of the exhaust, the car was almost overheating within 8min of idling and it was also idling at 2400RPM and maxed out revs at 4400RPM (something tells me this is not a good thing for the turbo as-well) but then I adjusted the throttle body back to 900RPM and then now that maxes out to 6500RPM but the car still over heats. Can someone help me out with this cos I do not want to blow the motor.

As for the ID tags go, i forgot to look but next time I'll have to go check again.

Thanks again.

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Post by Chris_Rogers » Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:43 am

if it has done that then there is a GOOD chance the heads are toast. most of the EA82 series engines had that issue. I would also look at the cooling system and pump. do you haev bubbles in the radiator with the cap off?
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:57 am

So the heads are most likely gone, are they easy to replace or the ea82? I didn't check if there where any bubbles in the radiator because I didn't want to touch the motor while it was hot, I'll have to go and check next week because the car is located at my uncles place.
With the head gasket would I be able to get them from repco or autobahn?

Thanks again :)

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Post by Chris_Rogers » Mon Mar 15, 2010 6:12 pm

possibly. never really tried. my wagon HAD that engine in it when I got it and it was toast. I dropped something more potent in there. see what damage is done before doing too much. they are ok engines but a WRX is a better option.
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:06 am

Hey everyone, just an update, I'm finally starting my project on the vortex and I've already have a few new problems, and I would like to know if anyone can help me out on this one :)

Problem 1: When I moved my car into my drive way the car was sitting level and the adjustable suspension is working fine and so was all the other electrics, then after about 5 hours the car is leaning to the left so the car is super low on one side and the other side is very high up. Could this be because of the springs or could this be something to do with the adjustable suspension?
(I will get a photo on Wednesday)

Problem 2: My car overheats within 5min of start up, I think its because I might have a problem with my radiator, it could be blocked or it could be that I need to replace the thermostat meter?

Problem 3: The tires have around 90-95% tread left on them, only thing wrong with them is that they are 6 years old, would I have to replace them because they are old or are they safe to drive with them on?

Any help would be great :)

Johnny T

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Post by ConeOfSilence » Fri May 07, 2010 7:50 pm

haven't seen a Vortex in a long time.

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Post by El_Freddo » Mon May 10, 2010 9:44 pm

G'day Johnny T.

I know I'm in Vic, but I've got no idea where Ashwood is! If you're in the south eastern burbs there's a place that was called centre rd wreckers, they've since changed their name but they 99% of the time have a token vortex in the yard. It would be worth a trip there to see what they've got or keep an eye on the parts yard thread in the Victorian section as we update whats at the yards when we can.

As for the problems you've asked about. The overheating issue could be blown head gaskets as someone's already mentioned. It could be a combination of things since it has been sitting for the last 5 years. The radiator would need to be rodded (cooling channels cleaned out with a rod), the water pump probabily replaced - checked at the very least. I'd change the coolant, best to leave after you've checked everything out. To check for bubbles in the radiator, fill it up, leave the cap off and start the engine, let the engine run while watching for bubbles in the radiator - keep an eye on the temp from time to time as not to overheat the engine.

Overall it looks like a pretty neat unit for its age - the only missing piece I've seen so far is the dash surround...

What I think Chris Rogers meant about a WRX is that a WRX drive train would go much better in your vortex. Its not a great deal more work to make it fit as it's pretty straight forward once you've done some research - and it'll go 130% better!

Cheers

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Post by d_generate » Mon May 10, 2010 10:34 pm

El_Freddo wrote:G'day Johnny T.


Overall it looks like a pretty neat unit for its age - the only missing piece I've seen so far is the dash surround...



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Post by El_Freddo » Mon May 10, 2010 10:49 pm

d_generate wrote:What's the black thing sitting on the passenger seat?
Got me there - I couldn't load the whole pic, only the top half... But it works now that I've given it another go...

Either way I'd reckon its got potential.

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Post by Johnny T » Tue May 11, 2010 11:19 am

Thanks for the reply guys :) just an update on the car, i got my m8 too look at the car and he said its overheating cause it could be the thermostat, so we had a look and it was completely finished, I have purchased a new one with the gasket. The weird thing is I started the car again and let it sit there for about 10min and there was no smoke at all. I have also purchased a new oil,fuel and air filter for the car and they should be going in the car this weekend, the next thing I have done was cleaned out the engine bay with and air compressor to remove any dirt, then I degrease it waited about 2 hours then used a high pressure water gun to remove the rest. (There should be a pic below to show before and after) The car has been sitting for about a month so the engine should be dry now.
BEFORE: Image
AFTER: Image

For the dashboard I have glued most of it back together but I cant seem to take off the center console, is there an easy way on how to do this because I don't want to break it.
Image

As mentioned before about the WRX drive train, what exactly is that and what does it do?

The next problems I found on this car are:
1: The window wiper motor doesn't work and I'm not sure how to remove it and where I can find another 1 cos I think there is 1 at the center road wreckers (Have to double check next time I go down there)
2: I cant take the rear seat off (Again not sure how to)
3: The battery I have for the car doesn't fit on the battery terminals correctly but I have been told I can get a thing that goes around the terminals to make it fit on the battery

Also is it worth getting a MBC (Manual Boost Controller) for this car?
Any advice would be great
Thanks again
Johnny T

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Post by spike » Tue May 11, 2010 12:07 pm

ok maybe i can answer a few questions
fist off
how mechanically minded are you jonny?? it "seems" to me that you do this as a hobby and dont know everything about subarus or cars in general sorry if you consider yourself an anorak
the wrx drivetrain is the gearbox and diffs and all other associated stuff out of the more modern subaru wrx it does very little but its newer, it also has some perks but yeah in my opinion not that nessasary.

in your first picture you can see the window winder im not sure if you know it, hence why i asked if your a mechanic or such, its the black and silver thing the the middle of the car and the base of the windscreen, normally it would have 3 bolts on the silver bit and the black is just sitting there, it is connected to the windscreen wiper mechanism by a splined joint possilby with a circlip.

rear seat could be tricky as i havent done it in a vortex, if your seats fold down try adn take them out peice by peice, the l series ones, the bottom part tilts forwards and you can unbolt it from there.

you mean to say the leads wont reach or that they dont fit the terminals??
get a battery that fits the clamp and the terminals are the right size usually a battery shop can help.

it depends what your going to do. id suggest keeping it at standard boost unless your going to race the thing or build a monster out of it
thankyou
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Post by Johnny T » Tue May 11, 2010 12:37 pm

Thanks spike, yer this car is just a hobby and I don't know too much about mechanics, but I would like to learn how to fix these things slowly. With the MBC i was just thinking of getting a little bit more boost out of the car but I guess I'll be wasting my money if I got one. As for the seats, they don't fold down so I'll just keep looking for the clips to take them off.

Thanks again
Johnny T

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Post by spike » Tue May 11, 2010 4:33 pm

i dont think their clipped in
i think their bolted, maybe from the boot??
i think atm it would be a waste, if you accidently wind the boost up too hard then you blow the engine then your out of pocket

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Post by steptoe » Tue May 11, 2010 11:47 pm

yep, while you remain a novice car enthusiast tinker with what you have without thinking about the power upgrade using EJ series engines from later Subies. You have an EA82T with a stuck thermostat. If temp gauge went to red - be thankful that you know temp gauge works above quarter. Mine did not and believe this is why the previous owner traded it in, to then go to wreckers and then my backyard for 18 months before I got to drive and play.

PLay with that first. The wipers may not work due to a blown fuse perhaps? Wiper switch dodgy or maybe they are just frozen/ rusted from no use long term. Maybe not try a boost controller to up boost pressure just yet.

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Post by Johnny T » Wed May 12, 2010 11:24 am

I have thought about the EJ20tt engine if i can find a half cut with all the parts I need, with the wiper motor I've checked all the fuses and they seem to be fine so i'll check for rust and the switch :) [Thanks for the advice steptoe].
One of my m8's told me I should get a inter-cooler for the car as-well but will it do my car any good / is it worth the hassle because I'm not sure if its worth getting cos the car is stock as a rock.
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Post by Chris_Rogers » Wed May 12, 2010 12:42 pm

you will be biting off a LOT more than you can chew if you do teh EJ20HD or EJ20R route. the plumbing on those is a nightmare and the wiring is not that much better.
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Post by spike » Wed May 12, 2010 1:09 pm

hmmm i like the idea of the intercooler a bit more custom piping but yeah it would be a good start i spose, i must say that although the first thing people do is build an engine that pulls 700hp at 10 000 rpm redline its a waste
start with a car that can handle the power, im sugesting upgraded brakes and suspension??

btw jonny what age bracket are you in??

if you want to learn to drive hard learn to drive slowley, learn car control and the like.

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Post by steptoe » Wed May 12, 2010 1:51 pm

I'd say continue to learn with what you have and with that knowledge you can move on from there.

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Post by Johnny T » Wed May 12, 2010 3:22 pm

Thanks for the help guys, i'll keep you updated on what im doing this weekend on the car (depending on weather) and when i get stuck again i'll let you guys know
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:18 am

Hey everyone, its been awhile since I've done some stuff to my pride and joy, I finally got my fuel pump (took 2 months to come in but it was worth the wait) and now i just have to find some time to put it in.
While i was waiting for the pump to come in I got a bit board and started to work on the interior, I'll show photo's when everything is complete (don't want to say too much because I'm keeping that a surprise)

I have a quick question (hopefully its easy) I would like to know if somebody can tell me how to take off the rear pascal shelf out of the car (where the rear speakers are), (not sure if i spelled that correctly so theres a picture below :) )

Image

As for the engine and important stuff, the car is still not running yet, but within the next month or two I'll be putting the pump in and doing all of mechanical work with a lot of help from everyone and I'll keep you guys posted with heaps of pics and stuff.

So if anyone can help me out with that question about removing the rear pascal shelf that would be great :)

Thanks everyone and I'll keep you posted
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Post by RSR 555 » Tue Feb 01, 2011 12:35 pm

Remove the back seat then lift the board/shelf upwards.. it has some plastic pop clips so be careful. I use a long flathead screwdriver and lever it up.
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:40 pm

Thanks for the help m8, i'll let you know how it goes, but how do i remove the rear seat?
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Post by steptoe » Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:49 pm

If Vortex is like L Serie sedans there will screws or bolts at the base of seat bit you sit on, either side of hump and out a bit, undo them, flip up and out the seat base and see if there is a way to remove seat backs a bit to release parcel shelf, may need a bend in the guts to clear each end of trim etc

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Post by H-top » Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:54 pm

you need to remove the rear inner trim with the pockets in it to get to the bolts.

but first you need to remove the upper seat belt, and other trim bits to access it.

of stripping the entire interior. the rear seat is that last big piece u can pull out.

sorry for the bad news.

good luck
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:48 pm

Thanks for the info guys, yer sounds like fun lol, yer the interior is completely out expect that rear seat, (had to remove it cos the sun roof has a leak and not sure how to fix that yet, but I'll deferentially give that a shot, just have to remember when I take out the bolts i gotta keep them labeled so i know where they go back. After I take out the rear shelf and fix it up is it easy to put back in?

As for the bad news H-Top there's a lot more coming after this is done lol
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Bolts

Post by olddog642 » Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:42 pm

To save loosing bolts or not being sure where they belong I generally put them back in the hole after taking out whatever they secured.
Hylton:twisted:
Ps I know it is more work but a lot quicker than trying to find them later.

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Post by Johnny T » Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:11 pm

Yer thats a good idea olddog, i'll defently remember that :)
well long story short, couldn't take out the rear passel self cos my car was drenched in the inside because the sunroof leaked and rear interior (there just behind the doors), so now i got another problem on my hands, so just a quick question for everyone out there, how do i fix the leak in the sunroof and rear interior leaks.
Thanks for the help again guys, i really appreciate it and sorry to ask a lot of questions again and again :P
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Post by FujiFan » Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:46 pm

Forgive my jovial response in advance:rolleyes:. Throw a tarp over the beast.

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Post by Johnny T » Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:12 pm

lol yer gonna have to invest in a new 1, last 1 i had on it had a few holes and i didn't take the cover off for a month, the interior had a lot of mold on it, so yer that;s a good temp fix though lol
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Post by coupe » Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:15 pm

hi
Take out the sun roof, there are 4 holes, one in each corner you need to blow them out,
They have tubes that lead to the bottom of the car and are the main reason they start leaking, you can get replacement frames but they are expensive. you can take out and repair the frame but its a big job. i will post some pics tomorrow.
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:18 am

Thanks coupe, yer no rush on the info :) i wont have time this weekend to do it, but i'll get a tarp to a temp fix, i'll take some photo's a.s.ap where the other leaks are comming from, but I'm not 100% sure if its caused from the sun roof, but hopefully when i get some photos they would explain a bit more (I hope)
Thanks again for the advice :)
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Post by steptoe » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:38 pm

That cheap grey duck tape has been seen on a few sunroofs - wortth a try to eliminate source

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Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 08, 2011 1:01 pm

Yer thats already done awhile ago, didnt seem to work either, looks like i'll have to get a new cover till the frame comes out and gets fixed. Thanks for the tip anyway steptoe :)
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pics

Post by coupe » Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:45 pm

here are the pics of the sun roof, you can see the tubes that are the start of the problem.
the gullies are badly shaped then they pool the water which starts the rusting. the whole frame is only bonded in with salastic, you can heat it up and using a scrapper and a heat gun you will get it out.
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:57 pm

Thanks for the upload coupe :), i'll let you know how it goes when I take it out IF it doesn't rain on a weekend or whenever i get some time, (not happy with Melbourne's weather a.t.m)
Wish me luck :)
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link

Post by coupe » Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:19 pm

Try this link to a XT thread about the sun roof


http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... t=sun+roof
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Post by steptoe » Wed Feb 09, 2011 2:00 am

I like the posters descriptive f word :)
Sort of glad I was suss about a Vortex a few years back - looked a little too moist inside on a frosty morning. After seeing those drain hole mods I'd be thinking a soft top version would be the next project

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:49 am

Bad news everyone, I took off the sun roof off yesterday and found a f load of rust threw the roof, if it was a little bit of rust it would of been ok to fix, i'll upload a photo of what i found when i can.

So basicly I am going to take off the panels and all the good parts off my vortex and keep them as spare parts and hopefully find a new vortex and put them on there.

Also I want to say thanks to everyone for the help on this car but unfortunetly wont be able to get this one running.
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:51 am

Bad news everyone, I took off the sun roof off yesterday and found a f load of rust threw the roof, if it was a little bit of rust it would of been ok to fix, i'll upload a photo of what i found when i can.

So basicly I am going to take off the panels and all the good parts off my vortex and keep them as spare parts and hopefully find a new vortex and put them on there.

Also I want to say thanks to everyone for the help on this car but unfortunetly wont be able to get this one running.
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Post by FujiFan » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:08 am

That sucks n blows both at once:twisted: Is it beyond economical repair?

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:39 am

Thanks for that FujiFan, i'm pretty sure its not repairable cos its a structural problem, and if i had the cash i dont think it could be fixed anyway. One of my m8s said i should turn it into a convertable but dont think thats gonna happen soon lol.

I'm kinda happy that i found out this problem now than later on cos I would of spent a lot more money onto it, but what can you do :)
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Post by FujiFan » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:01 am

Yeah was going to suggest the convertable concept:p but even bigger $$ to do that properly. As you say better now then later at greater cost. All the best in the search for a doner vehicle:)

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Post by H-top » Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:30 pm

I've got a straight body here mate
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Bugger

Post by coupe » Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:17 pm

before you decide to strip the car please post some pics of the roof so we can see if we can give you more options to your dilema.

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Post by shuffbag » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:45 pm

i once had grand plans for a red rx with a sun roof, but then found my rear pillars around the base were rusted only held together by bog :(

i feel your pain
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:16 pm

thanks for that H-top, but I honestly dont think i can afford to bring the shell down to melbourne, but if my boss decides to pay me properly i'll defently send you a message :)

Yer it totaly sucks cos I have had the car for almost a year now and it still hasnt started so i haven't had a proper chance to drive it yet too.

Here is the pics i took yesterday, I'll take some more when i can but i dont like looking at it cos its just too painfull for me too look at lol so hopefully this week or weekend i'll take off the roof lining and get a better shot.
Image


If this can be fixed that would be the best thing since sliced bread, I've had my eye on this car for over 6 years now and still haven't driven it on the roads.

Thanks again everyone for this, just hope this can be fixed :)
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sunroof

Post by coupe » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:50 pm

The roof is a two piece unit and as long as the roof edge is reasonable then you will only have to remove the inner frame which is only glued into place. once its out you can rebuild the unit or replace it. Its not that bad.
See what the inside of the roof is like.
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:00 pm

Sorry to hear the news.

If you're after another body head out to centre road wreckers when you can - there's a turbo "AWD" auto Vortex there - spider manifold too. Rear end is now missing :( But the interior looks neat. Its got a moon roof but it only pops up at the back - not a real sunroof...

Thought I'd let you know.

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Post by steptoe » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:29 pm

Anyone think a bigger sunroof fitted may fix his problems enough to be able to at least drive it for a few years?

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Post by FujiFan » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:30 pm

Think vinyl top Datsun 180B ;)

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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:33 pm

steptoe wrote:Anyone think a bigger sunroof fitted may fix his problems enough to be able to at least drive it for a few years?
Or cut out roof section and replace with a good unit/solid roof section... The real thing to check out is if the pillars have rust through them as well to make sure it's not a structural issue.

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Post by shuffbag » Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:25 pm

bennie just letting you know that moon roof that doesnt really open except for the rear.... is actually fully removable! my vortex has one. remove and put in the boot
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:39 pm

shuffbag wrote:bennie just letting you know that moon roof that doesnt really open except for the rear.... is actually fully removable! my vortex has one. remove and put in the boot
Yeah didn't pay much attention to this, just did a quick assessment of the overall condition of the interior, checked that it popped open (rear only as I didn't stuff around with it too much), I didn't go into the nitty-grittys of how it fully operated - just noted that it wasn't an electric sunroof...

Cheers

Bennie

PS forgot to add in my last post - this vortex is an AWD auto, otherwise I'd probably have a new addition to the shed :twisted:
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Post by Johnny T » Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:49 am

Thanks again for the feed back guys, im gonna try and get some time this weekend to get some more pics under neighth it, i showed this pic to a subaru specialist the other day and he told me its been fixed before and to fix it, it will cost more than it's really worth, so i might have to save up or really think about getting it towed back to my uncles place for awhile. (I really don't want to get rid of this car)
But the good thing is that i checked this now becuase i wanted to respray it at the end of the year.

I was thinking of finding another 1 and continue my project on that and keep this one as a spare and if i need parts or panels I wont have to stress out and look all over the place for them.

Thanks everyone again for the feedback and I'll let you know what happens within the weel :)
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Post by steptoe » Sat Feb 19, 2011 1:05 am

local tech course at night in panel beating project or have you a local prison with a panel shop with cheap labour?

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Post by Johnny T » Sun Feb 20, 2011 2:09 pm

I got a mate who can give me a hand with taking off the panles, (he does panel beating so hoping he knows what his doing lol)
So im on the hunt for a new one and gotta start saving up aswell.
If i can find one would anyone be instrested in the H style 13" rims (4stud)
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:09 pm

Hey everyone, its been awhile since i.ve updated this posts, but i do have some good news for once lol, as i have rust in the sun roof i was going to srap the car and sell it for parts, but luckly my uncle did have a good look at it and said it was't that bad and easy to fix, so luckly i'll be working on it again.

The newest things that i have done to my pride and joy are repairing the interior and pulling the engine apart to put new parts in it so for when it starts again it will run like new (fingers crossed). I will post photos of my progress soon to show you what i have done, warning is the engine does not look the same but given some time this vortex should be starting up by the end of the year lol

Also just a quick question has anyone been successful of swapping the vortex streering wheel for a new one because i do understand you need a boss kit but they didn't make them so the guy at autobarhn said i can try using a boss kit for the subaru leon/wagon and it might work, so what you guys think, can the wheel be changed?

Thanks again everyone
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:16 pm

Hey JohnnyT Glad to hear the tex is living on.

There's still that red one at centre rd wreckers with the removable sunroof - not really much left on it other than interior parts but some are missing...

Cheers

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Post by Johnny T » Tue Jul 05, 2011 3:33 pm

Thanks El Freddo, yer I cant wait to get this car started :)
I checked out the vortex in clayton, i wanted the front bar lip but wasn't too sure how to remove it and not sure if its still there, hopefully if melbournes weather picks up this weekend I can find some time to check it out again.

I do have an issue with the hydrolic air suspension and I would like to take it out, is that an easy job to do and will the car run without the hydrolics because I dont want the same problem later on.

Also as I said before, would anyone know what type of boss kit I would need to swap my vortex L shaped wheel to something newer like a 2005 sti wheel or a after market 1, I found this link: http://www.autotecnica.com.au/boss_kit_subaru.html so has anyone does a streering wheel swap before and what one would I need to get.

Thanks everyone
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Post by sammynb » Tue Jul 05, 2011 3:58 pm

hydrolic air suspension
It's not hydraulic, it's pneumatic and no it's not hard to replace.
Just find a 2wd L Series sedan and remove all four complete units - so damper, spring, top hat/strut top and then bolt into place in your Vortex.
You will need to disconnect the power to the compressor, either just remove the fuse or unplug the power supply at the compressor (is the compressor under the front passenger side guard like on the Turbo Sedan?)

Somewhere like Auto One or any good auto parts supplier should be able to help you with a sports steering wheel and matching boss kit but I don't think you'll have much luck finding a kit to fit a later Subaru steering wheel.
btw the 907 on your autotecnica link should fit the Tex.

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Post by steptoe » Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:45 pm

Johnny, there was a car on your other subaru site that had a nice wheel, maybe ask in there. No difference likely between LHD and RHD in the wheel and boss :)

In the front of my Vort the coil spring conversion has been done, and as sammy says above . My fronts are marked EA82 FI 2WD and sit perfect height for specs. The rears have L Series wagon springs and they sit 60mm too high. Yet to try my GLTAX rear springs that came from something else too maybe an RX. The FWD L sedan springs were a thinner wire than the ones in my GLTA rear- so i tossed them. They may have been perfect for my Vort :(

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Post by Johnny T » Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:26 pm

Hey everyone, its been awhile since I've posted anything on here so i guess it time for an update, "Quick note: not a lot has been done due to time, weather and lack a funds"

Also note that I have done all the work myself so it may not look as good as the perfesional people would do it but I say you get what you pay for and with no experience I think I did an okayish job :P

Firstly i had thoughts of changing the interior colour, e.g: Carpet, dash, and center console. I wanted to paint the interior white but remembered white can be painfully hard to get correct and when your mates touch the insides it gets really dirty, (seen too many white dashes with finger prints all over it, looked like a crime scene every time i went in the car) so I decided to go with a classic black interior look.

My first job was to remove the interior (and this was done early last year) and start working on the carpet, I first gave the carpet a clean like its never had before and started to paint it black, it did take 2 weeks to do because you have to wait for the first coat to dry and then do the last coat.
Image

The next part was to do the center console, same style as painting the carpet, just gave it a good clean, light sand back for the paint to stick and a few coats of paint and a hot day was really helpful lol.
The most important advice I could give anyone if they want to change the colour is to make sure you over all the buttons and letters so you know whats what.
These are the before and after shots. (I still need to do the final coat so it may not look as good as it should)
Image

After finishing off the center console I started the dash, this still needs a lot more work and the camera didn't take the best shot, so I'll upload more photos when i find my old camera.
Image
Image

Next had to be the doors and internal trims. and this was the most time consuming because you need to tape up everything and make sure you don't spray the windows.
Image
Image
With the last one, the door came out better when the paint dried.


I have also done the gear stick, hand break and all the other parts you cant see, (with the steering wheel I'm going to get that wrapped in a black leather so it will have that final touch)

Hope you guys liked what I did there and let me know what you think :)

I do have another question, i found an early 90's liberty wagon that is being wrecked at the moment and I was thinking if I take the entire suspension, the hubs, breaks and shocks, so what would I have to do to make that fit onto my little pocket rocket because I do not want to to keep the 4 stud pattern.

Thanks again guys and hope to give you guys more updates :)
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Post by Brumby Kid » Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:34 pm

Does it look pro? Can you tell it has been painted? Or does it look like factory black? Thinking if i wanted to change colour i would just spray it, like you did.

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Post by revmax » Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:57 pm

anyone tried rit dye on the plastics
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Post by Brumby Kid » Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:58 pm

revmax wrote:anyone tried rit dye on the plastics
Will google that, what is it?
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Post by Johnny T » Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:16 pm

The interior was factory blue, but I changed it to black, the photos didn't help too much, i'll try and get a closer shot to see if you can see any difference.

Changing the colour is easy, just take a bit of time and good weather.
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Oct 30, 2011 11:39 pm

Johnny T wrote:I do have another question, i found an early 90's liberty wagon that is being wrecked at the moment and I was thinking if I take the entire suspension, the hubs, breaks and shocks, so what would I have to do to make that fit onto my little pocket rocket because I do not want to to keep the 4 stud pattern.
You need the crossbred conversion kit, there's details of what you need to send them and what you will need to collect to get the job done. Jeff is the one to contact about it all, just email him from the details on http://www.crossbredperformance.com or .com.au, I can't remember.

And the interior colour change looks good from those photos, what are you going to do for the seats, pillar trim and roof lining? Time will tell with how it stands against the heat and harsh rays of the sun in summer!

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Post by guyph_01 » Mon Oct 31, 2011 12:11 am

Johnny T wrote:The interior was factory blue, but I changed it to black, the photos didn't help too much, i'll try and get a closer shot to see if you can see any difference.

Changing the colour is easy, just take a bit of time and good weather.
Blue???? looks more like grey interior trim to me. Yeah as bennie said time will tell. but i does look good:)
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Oct 31, 2011 10:50 am

Thanks for the reply guys, yer during summer i plan to keep it covered, and the car still has a long way to go before its working lol

As for the seats im going to get them re done in either black velour with black or white stitching and as for the pillar trim and roof lining, that has been changes and if you decide to change it, make sure you take everything out because it will make it a lot more easier to change, more importantly make sure your paint it in an area where you can breath, i found out the hard way by spraying in the garage lol.

Here's a photo of the side pillar here; (not the best shot but it should show enough)
Image

(I did realize i wrote blue instead of grey, my bad :P)

Thanks for the link El Freddo for the link, i'll send that guy an email and hopefully the kit shouldn't blow my budget lol. Just a quick one so I don't buy the wrong kit, is it the "Brake Kit (L Series) " the one im looking for?


Thanks again
Johnny T
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Post by brumbyrunner » Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:21 am

That's the one.
It's the 100% legal bolt-on DIY brake and wheel upgrade kit.

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Post by coupe » Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:36 am

looks great mate.
I did the same recoat to some of my mini coopers.
Yeah i found out about the ventilation thing when i did the first one lol. What a rush lol.
As for the staying power of the vinyl spray it lasted 8 years on the mini with only the seats cracking up after a few years.
Cheers Pete
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Post by steptoe » Tue Nov 01, 2011 11:09 am

I did a black vinyl spray on a centre console cushion twenty years ago from bone, so quite a contrast and can only just se something on a common squash point, actually forgot about it until post above me !!

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Post by Johnny T » Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:00 pm

I managed to take a quick photo of the roof lining today and I have to admit its only the first spray so it never comes out the best, but I'll finish that off when the roof is getting fixed :)

Image

I got a price for the kit and looks like i have to save up a bit more (its not expensive) but i need to fix the daily ride first lol.

I got another question to ask (AGAIN), when I'm putting the engine back together with the new head gaskets and what not, with the wiper motor cable as someone broke the wire, i found a new wire with the connection, can someone show me where that cable is meant to connect, if its not too much trouble would I be able to have a photo?

Thanks again guys

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Post by Tweety » Tue Nov 01, 2011 6:50 pm

Johnny T, this has been a good read. I'm certain if I ever buy an older Subie it'll be a Vortex- luv em.

Stick to it. These guys on this forum have helped me with my conversion immensely.

And remember, a lot of small issues with older cars often are easy repair. loose wires, fuses etc. they just need some TLC.
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Post by Chris_Rogers » Wed Nov 02, 2011 7:15 am


I do have another question, i found an early 90's liberty wagon that is being wrecked at the moment and I was thinking if I take the entire suspension, the hubs, breaks and shocks, so what would I have to do to make that fit onto my little pocket rocket because I do not want to to keep the 4 stud pattern.

Thanks again guys and hope to give you guys more updates :)
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you will need:
the full front strut setup with ball joint.
a new set of driveshafts up front are needed as the spline count changes on the outside.
modified control arms (crossbred do these.)
MY rack ends on the L series rack

rear will need ALL the brake hardware and the cable setup. use a 80s honda accord handbrake. it may be a bit low but the mounting points are the right way up.

if you wnat to get trick and the donor car has it - grab the ABS system as well.

questions - ask.
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:00 pm

Hey everyone, long time since I posted an update here, so here it is;

I am currently putting the engine back together with my uncle who is a panel beater and we are not 100% sure where all the piping is going, I have replaced the cut pipes and now can't seem to work out where the pipe that connects to the spider manifold goes, (Picture below)

Once this is all put back on my uncle and I we should be able to start it and weld up the roof and continue working on the body, but most importantly is working out how to put all the engine pipes and cables back together.

Any advice would be great and I will post some more photo's shortly of other things that I have done.

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I do know that this pipe is broken but I am getting this part fixed :)
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Apr 21, 2014 2:39 pm

Hey everybody, its been awhile since I have posted something up here,

I'm almost done putting the engine back together and should have the engine started within a few months (depending on timing)

When the engine starts I'm going to run a Compression Test to see how well the engine is running, hopefully every cylinder is running correctly considering the engine hasn't moved in over 3 years its a possibility of something going wrong.

I have another question I am not to sure off with the rear suspension, I found this problem awhile ago when I took the tyres off and put the car on stands (I know in the photo 1 of the stands are in the wrong place but I do have more than 4 stands available at that time).
In the photo below shows that the hub has fallen to the ground but on the other side it is fine, does anyone know what I have to do to fix it?

Image

Also does anyone know where I can get some new break disks from?

Thanks again everyone and when I get some new updates I will keep everyone posted.
Kind regards
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Post by steptoe » Mon Apr 21, 2014 5:58 pm

I had a part number somewhere for rear discs ....I'll look and see.....

You must have air bag suspension ?

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:01 pm

Thanks for the reply Steptoe, if you can find the number when you got some free time it would be great :)

As for the suspension it is an air bag system, would this issues be caused by a leak, because when the car was working only the passenger side fell and the drivers side was fine, also how would I find the lines so I can trace if the hose or rings are broken?

Thanks again
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Post by steptoe » Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:13 pm

Those little black high pressure air lines are usually with the wiring looms - I know zip about the air bag system as all three of my cars that were born with it had been upgraded to normal stuff by time I got them.

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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:07 pm

Factory L air suspension! Lucky bugger!

I got a new set of rear discs some time ago from my local parts joint.

I'm sure you could still get a set - even if you have to wait a bit on them arriving.

Even then, those discs will be fine once back in use. The ones on Ruby Scoo are the ones that came with the hubs from the wreck - I got them free as the dude at the wreckers said they were useless! Do use an old set of pads when you wear them back in.

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Apr 28, 2014 2:56 pm

Thanks again for the reply,
I managed to contact a few brake places and they gave me a quote around 350 - 500$ (installed with new pads) so when the time comes I'll take it down, but for that suspension issue, still cant work out how to repair it, I know it will be a fun job tracing the lines if its a leak and hope it's nothing major.

Also I do have another question about getting a set of keys made for the car because when I got the car from my Uncle he lost the original keys, I contacted a locksmith lose by that can make a new key for me but I will have to bring the driver side mechanism in, only question I have is that how do I remove the part, I bought a door trim removal so I know that is a start hahahaha,

Thanks again for all the help

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Post by El_Freddo » Sat May 03, 2014 11:20 am

The leak will be in one of the air bags, not in the lines.

The door lock - you'll have to remove the interior panel then get into the back of the door handle and remove this to take the locking mechanism to the lock smith.

That price for the rear discs is steep in my opinion. See what the parts alone are worth, they're relatively easy to replace. The hardest part is getting the castle nut off the hub to get to the disc for removal. It's a 36mm nut ;)

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Post by Johnny T » Sun May 04, 2014 10:41 am

Thanks for the reply Bennie,

I will get another price from other places, I'll have to check with the Subaru Specialist Mechanic down the road and see what they can do for me with that. Ideally I would like to change the brake system myself but as I'm not very mechanically minded I would like to take it to a professional so I know that the brakes will work when I need them to :)

Also with the suspension can that part be repaired or does it have to be replaced, to be honest I would like to keep the suspension and the car original as possible, but worst case possible I did buy some used pedders coil overs a few years ago from a 4wd vortex so it should be a swap over (hopefully)

Thank again for the help

Kind regards
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Post by steptoe » Sun May 04, 2014 11:12 am

conversion to coils etc is what most seem to have done - air bag has its limitations, not unlike our wallets when it comes to these things - about a grand a corner from memory. You'd have to eliminate entire air bag front and rear, ditch the heavy little components under LHS guard etc

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Post by Johnny T » Sun May 04, 2014 1:49 pm

Thanks for the reply again Steptoe

A grand (roughly) seems a bit much but what can you do, it would be nice if there was second hand ones I can buy hahaha, but looks like I'll have to make a swap over to the standard suspension, is there any other ways (less expensive ways) to have adjustable suspension or would that cost more to do than repairing the original system (just weighing up my options), lucky enough for me that I have another car to get me around and this is my project car, just cant wait to get it on the road so I can drive it once again.


Once again, thanks for all the help

Kind regards
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Post by FujiFan » Sun May 04, 2014 9:47 pm

As for the suspension it is an air bag system
There was a used set listed on fleabay Oz a few weeks ago described as being from RX turbo sedan, cant recall starting bid.

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Post by El_Freddo » Sat May 10, 2014 6:21 pm

FujiFan wrote:There was a used set listed on fleabay Oz a few weeks ago described as being from RX turbo sedan, cant recall starting bid.
I thought it was gumtree, but anyway.

Johnny, what you can do is easily swap to coils, disconnect the power/fuse to the air pump and keep all of the system in the vehicle - then you can buy/source/find/steal/whatever to get the airbags sorted in your own time. This will help save on the $$$ needed for the airbags - who knows, you might find a way of replacing the airbag component only :twisted:

There are options, don't ditch stuff before you find out what you can/can't do with it.

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Post by Johnny T » Sun May 11, 2014 11:13 am

Thanks for the advice again El Freddo, when I get some free time on the weekend (lucky for me I found a new job) I'll try and swap over the system and keep the old suspension stored till I get more cash in the bank hahaha.

If everything goes according to plan I should have the car started this year.


Thanks again for all the feedback.

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Post by El_Freddo » Fri May 16, 2014 7:08 pm

Johnny T wrote:If everything goes according to plan I should have the car started this year.
That's a big statement :rolleyes: :p

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Post by Johnny T » Tue May 20, 2014 11:23 am

hahaha hopefully it can be done,

I have found someone who can make new Sunraysias wheels with the 4x140 stud pattern for $75.00 per rim, if I get some time this weekend I can check it out and see if its any good, but are these rims worth $75.00each? also what is the standard width of these rims because I would like to fit 205 width tyres on the car once its fully complete.

Thanks again for all the feed back,

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Post by steptoe » Tue May 20, 2014 1:57 pm

hard thing to quantify the worth when compared to mass churned out in China alloy wheels that don't fit our Subes. If you have found someone that can custom make you a set of five if you can afford and at $75 each, they are a bargain.

Can they do them in a choice of 13,14 and 15's ?

You might have to work with them to work out not only how wide the rim is but its inside and outset measure off centre/off set etc.

Have us tell you and sumptin' goes wrong .....

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Post by H-top » Tue May 20, 2014 4:48 pm

I've got some 14s for sale
H-Top

rolling in

MY00 GT Foz - Auto, Turbo, Luxury

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Post by Johnny T » Wed May 28, 2014 3:56 pm

Thanks for the reply guys, I think they make them 14" if I have some free time this weekend I will find out where they are made and ask them if they make them to any size.

Once I find out all the information I will post it back on here and if everyone likes the sound of the measurements and possible wheel size I can put a contact details up :)

Also H-top, thanks for the offer, I think the transport cost will cost me an arm and a leg from Brisbane To Melbourne hahaha

I will keep everyone posted once I finish up.

Thanks again for the reply's,

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Post by Johnny T » Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:45 pm

Hey everyone, its been awhile since I've been here, I have been looking for a new ignition barrel as mine couldn't be repaired, I tried contacting a few places and didn't have any luck as they don't stock / make them anymore.

Lucky enough I contacted Import Monster and amazingly they were able to track one down for me from Japan, its about 6 - 8 weeks away, they also found for me a Dash Trim and its still in once piece, so I'm pretty happy about the find, now I am just waiting too see if they have a radio :)

Here is a photo of the Trim
Image

I have spoken to a Subaru Mechanic Specialist in Clayton and he is going to see if he still has his air suspension as he said it still works but not sure where it is, fingers crossed I'll be able to get a replacement.

On other things I would like to know when I get my car ready to start again (its been 3 years since the engine cranked over), what engine oil I should I use as the car has only done 156,000km on it and what else should I do before I turn the engine over?

Thanks again for everyone's help :)

Kind regards
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Post by steptoe » Sat Jun 21, 2014 5:27 pm

that trim needs to find its way into a 3D printer studio !!

i use 15w40 in ea82, thinking 10w40 might be needed for winter temps

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Post by Willy Fisterbottom » Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:30 pm

I have five Vortexes and only one has a good dash trim :-(

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Post by Johnny T » Sun Jun 22, 2014 3:45 pm

Thanks for the advice steptoe, really appreciate it :)

if I get some time to take to a 3D printer place, would they be able to remake it without damaging the original piece? I will also get a price to see how much it would cost to remake them as we'll, if I get a ruff idea on how many to make that should lower the price :) once I get my parts I'll post another update, just can't wait hahahaha
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:33 pm

That's an awesome find mate!

I can see why they crack or get damaged easy!

I hope the 3D printing turns out, I reckon you might have a few lining up depending on price and finish quality.

Cheers

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:33 pm

Thanks Bennie,

Import Monster have been awesome for tracking down that part for me and if I can help make a model for everyone I'll be more than happy to get quotes from a 3D printer place, you just never know if there is another one of these in this condition.

I'm going to ask Import Monster if they can get me the sun roof gutters because mine have completely rusted out, would it be a good idea if I can get the gutters made from the 3D printer as well or would it all have to be made out of steel because if I have parts that can be remade I would like to help anyone out that needs it :)

After I get some quotes for the trim, its going to be stored in a box with bubble wrap so it doesn't get damage :)
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Post by Johnny T » Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:22 am

Hey guys,

Just a quick update, I have received all the parts from Japan, when I get some time off I will take the trim to a 3D printer place so I can get a few extras made if anyone is interested :)

On the other news my Uncle and I are almost done putting the engine back together and we just need to know for the spark plug leads what the firing order is, because I will be able to have the car started up this weekend after 3 long years :)
I have looked in the repair manuals found on the forum and can't seem to find it (or I have been looking in the wrong spots :S )

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks guys and will post and update this weekend

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Post by Johnny T » Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:25 am

Hey everyone, just a quick update,

I have the eninge block back together and having an issue with replacing the fuel pump, when I removed the old one and put in a bosh 910 pump it didnt fit (as I purchased thia pump awhile ago and the guy at the shop said it would fit)

I have been to a few autoshops and they found a Walbro pump from PAT or a External hp from Fuelmiser.

Does anyone know what will fit as I would like to have the car started as soon as possible.

Any help would be great, thanks everyone :)
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Post by steptoe » Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:40 am

what dont fit ? pump not fit in bracket or hoses dont fit? or electrical plug ?

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Post by Johnny T » Wed Jan 07, 2015 12:02 pm

Thanks for the reply Steptoe, the pipe to the tank didn't fit and the pipe to the fuel lines (connecting to the engine bay area) didn't fit aswell, what would be the best thing to do?
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Post by steptoe » Mon Jan 12, 2015 11:43 pm

a universal efi pump with specs to match - don't buy or pay anyone for one unless they can provide hose connection types and sizes.

You need an external efi pump with 1/2" intake 8mm outlets. Check out Nardek in Sydney via a google search

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Post by Johnny T » Tue Mar 17, 2015 7:04 am

Hey everyone, just an update :)

I have put the new Goss Fuel pump in the car and now I am getting fuel to the engine, after trying to start the car for 30 min (giving breaks in between), I had a small start but it shut itself of after 2 seconds, I tried again and it will not turn itself over. I noticed I have a crack in the thermostat housing and was leaking into one of the spark plugs, would that affect the engine starting?

Another thing that I have a question is that as the car has been sitting for over 3 year sitting how can I check my fuel injectors to see if they have working or if they need cleaning.

Any info would be great :)
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Post by FujiFan » Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:45 am

Have you drained the 3 year old fuel out out the system and put fresh 95 RON in the tank?

J.

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Post by Johnny T » Wed Mar 18, 2015 6:54 am

Thanks for the reply Fuji, when i removed the pump all the fuel came out so i put a fresh 10L in it but only 91oct, before the car was running (years ago) it was running with 91oct in it, should I drain it and put 98oct in?
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Post by FujiFan » Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:00 am

Its not critical if the fuel is premium, not for the purpose of getting it started anyway. If its the turbo engine you really will need 95 or better. I was more trying to steer you from putting in an ethanol blend fuel, and eliminating old stale fuel as the cause of it not starting and running.

As for the injectors, it would'nt hurt to have them cleaned, tested and new basket filters and hose fitted. You can do this yourself at home, but if you take them to a workshop that services petrol injectors they should have the facility to check spray pattern etc. Worth while if has never been done and the car has sat for so long.

J.

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Post by Willy Fisterbottom » Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:27 am

Pull your spark plugs out and see if one or more your cylinders have filled up with coolant, this would cause a hydraulic lock stopping the engine turning over.

I bought this a few weeks ago http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUBARU-VORTE ... 474wt_1358

Image

In the description it had: THE ENGINE WILL START BUT IT WONT KEEP GOING (I THINK THE TIMING IS OUT)....

Turned out it had old fuel and fuel pump was blocked with what look liked charcoal from the charcoal canister.
I got it to fire up but only on the 2 right side (1&3) cylinders.
I checked all the wiring as per my 85 EA82 efi manual and all showed up ok. I swapped out the 2 injectors on that side and she now runs :-)

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Post by FujiFan » Wed Mar 18, 2015 3:23 pm

Nice work Willy. I saw the that vortex on ebay for quite a while, good thats its finally gone to join your stable. Also proves the point about fuel system problems on cars left idle for so long, esp these EFI models.

J.

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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Mar 18, 2015 11:19 pm

Quite an easy fix there Willy. I stand by EFI systems, a little bit of trouble shooting and 9 times out of 10 you've got the issue nailed.

Going from your other thread Johnny T, I didn't know your vortex was an auto! I just assumed it was a manual. AWD or 3 speed front wheel drive with selectable 4wd? Or just FWD only?

Also, do a full fuel system service. As Willy found out the E10 stuff is not nice to these engine's fuel system when left to sit over time. Pull all apart what you can and blow out the rest. Could be worth dropping the tank to clean out any crap in there too.

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Post by Vortex75 » Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:23 am

Nice buy Willy, great to see another Vortex saved. Do you know if that colour is original? I know it's been resprayed.
Canny

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Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 09, 2016 12:05 pm

Time for me to take off the dust in this thread,

I have some good news for the Vortex, I managed to find a set of Vortex XT6 front and rear breaks and hubs from Japan, but the only problem that I had is the air ride suspension / shocks was more than I could afford because I got out bidded.

Is there any aftermarket or systems I can use for this set up as I have heard that you cant use the XT4 shocks / air ride.

(Will be posting some new pics at the end of the month as the Vortex is getting towed to my new house)

Any help or advice would be great :)

I'll keep everyone posted as much as I can :)

Thanks again everyone

Johnny T
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Apr 26, 2016 12:04 pm

Just a quick update

I picked up the new break system up on the weekend and they will be going on the car once I find shocks and springs that will fit, does anyone have any ideas on what I can use?

(also will post photos once I get a chance)
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Post by Johnny T » Fri Jul 08, 2016 12:44 pm

Hey everyone,

I'm looking into buying these rims for the Vortex (havent put the XT6 new brakes on it yet) but just wanted to know if these will fit the car without any issues:

http://http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15x6- ... SwIUNXFy9M

any help would be great

Thanks again

Regards
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Links ...

Post by Bantum » Fri Jul 08, 2016 11:39 pm

Um ... linky not working, but if tis what I'm thinking - Are you going for a 5 stud wheel ? There's a good reference page on here too ... :cool: So from what I've understood, you got to make sure the wheel clears the brake callipers & swing arm / suspension components, along with suitable offset to stay within arches ... ;) Can't say much on the specific rim, as link did'nt show ... :(

Sorry suspension is not my area of expertise ... But if you want to fix the air suspension ( is it just leaking or bit more than that ? ) try & find the leaks ... ( Usually the plastic air lines are the culprit from what I've heard ) - If you're going to swap 'em out, I'd go for Standard L series suspension as a temporary measure until you can find replacement bits - anything more advanced I would do a search for conversions that others have done ... ;)

I hope that helps ... :D

Ciao, Bantum ...

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Aug 08, 2016 1:29 pm

Hi everyone

I'll be putting on the new break hubs on in few weeks time and I also need a new set of wheels, (will be posting picture of the install)

I would like to know what Offset & Size I can use before I go to my local tire & rim shop.

Hope to get some feedback soon. Thanks again for everyone help :)
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Post by Johnny T » Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:56 am

Hi guys

Just had a quick question on doing an engine swap as I am looking into getting a FA20 from a BRZ (complete with manual gear box, looms ecu and keys) for around $6,000.
I just wanted to know what’s involved and will the 4wd system still work as the engine will be from a rwd car or do I have to get an engine from a WRX?
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Post by El_Freddo » Fri Apr 28, 2017 5:01 pm

I'm not sure about the engine to gearbox stud pattern is, it may be different to the EJ stud pattern thus an EJ AWD box may not fit.

There's more investigation needed on your end. I believe the FB engine is wider than the EJ - might not be an issue for the space required with the EA82... Whole wiring loom - is it a BUS system that needs to talk with the radio and other accessories? Does it come with the key fob for the security system to work?

Lots of things to check out to ensure you're not wasting 6G, but a cool drivetrain to have in the wedge that'd make it a unique and crazy setup!

I hope you go through with it and there aren't any hiccups that turn you away from the conversion!

Cheers

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PS - got any of those pics mentioned in above posts??
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Post by Johnny T » Sat Jul 08, 2017 7:20 pm

Hi all

just managed to take some photos of the new vortex and I will be working on my black one tomorrow and keep everyone updated.

let me know what you guys think :)

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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Jul 08, 2017 8:12 pm

Looks very clean!

The front bar doesn't bother me but I don't know the difference! You'll have to find out if they're a direct swap - if I were a betting man I'd say they are.

Your black interior will look good against that green of the body. Brown interior is so 70's that it should've been left there.

Is the plan to drive this one while you fix up the other one good and proper?

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Post by Johnny T » Sat Jul 08, 2017 10:09 pm

Thanks for that Bennie.

The plan is to put all the good bits into the green one from my black vortex (my turbo engine and running gear etc...) get this painted black and finish off the project. Unfortunately I will have to get rid of the original black vortex as I don't have enough cash to do the roof repair but keep as much as I can for spares :)

When the green vortex is fully complete I'll be posting a parts list for sale as I don't need the suspension , disk breaks....

Later on I'm going to save up for a fa20 and go either rwd turbo or super charged and make it a sleeper weekend car :) but for now just doing the big swap and will post more progress tomorrow
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Post by TOONGA » Sat Jul 08, 2017 11:42 pm

that is a great score Johnny ... that is the first in tact dash surround I've ever seen look after it as they are rarer that the rear discs

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Jul 10, 2017 7:51 am

Thanks for the reply guys :)

Well I do have some great new. I managed to get the Black Vortex Started after so many years. My mechanic and I removed all the fuel lines, cleaned them out (using a mini air compressor) and relined every line and then it fired up :)

So now I can start the full converson as soon as my new Garage is completed and going to be posting heaps of updates :)
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Jul 11, 2017 9:26 am

Hey guys,

I know I have asked this question before, I am looking to put the XT6 hubs on next weekend and wanting to get the coil over this week, just wanted to know what ones to get as I will be going to pedders suspenion. Do I ask them for a set of 95 WRX Coils and I know they are not a direct bolt as you will have to drill new holes for them to fit, would I need anything else besides the Coils?

Thanks again for everyone's help :)
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:23 am

Rear end you're probably better off asking for coil overs for a Gen3 liberty as they have a very similar coil/shock setup out back. I've not tried swapping these onto the L series but I know they're a better fit than a McPherson strut for the rear.

Front end it probably doesn't really matter so much as the strut is basically the same. Heights of the spring hat might be different but going coil over that really isn't an issue.

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Post by Johnny T » Thu Jul 13, 2017 8:28 am

Thanks Bennie for the advise again :)

I'll have a chat with the guys this weekend (if nothing else pops up)

just cant wait to start the new project and have a running turbo vortex :)
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Post by Johnny T » Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:57 am

Hi guys

just an update, I am going to start the engine swap soon and when I remove the motor out from the Green Vortex I am looking to sell the it with gear box (this is the non turbo motor and 3sp Auto approx 216,000k's) but not sure if I am asking too much to sell it at 500$ together. Can someone give me some advise if I am asking too much for it?

Thanks again for everyones help
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:18 pm

Chuck it up on Gumtree at that price and see what you get. $500 gives you room to move and negotiate.

You never know what you'll get. Beware though, you'll probably get some real low ballers trying it on with you.

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Post by Johnny T » Tue Aug 29, 2017 7:34 am

Thanks for the advice Bennie.

When everything is out of this car and if its not gone within a week I'll be giving it to the wreckers (only problem of having spares is space lol)
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Post by Johnny T » Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:27 am

Just a small update.

I have started to do the conversion and now have both cars on stands, removed the wheels and have removed the rear diff and rear axle. Only problem I am having is removing the front hub from the Green Vortex as it is pretty stuck. I have used an impact wrench and a breaker bar with an extension for more torque but still won’t budge (even sprayed the wd40). Is there another way of removing the stubborn hubs because I am tempted of getting a angle grinder and just cutting it off completely lol.

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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:18 pm

Looking good mate!

Front hub, are you talking about the 36mm castellated nut? If so I've always cracked these with the tyre on the ground with 3/4 inch drive breaker bar by jumping on the breaker bar.

On stands I've found that trying to crack this nut only results on spinning the hub due to the hand brake not able to hold the torque that's applied.

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Post by dfoyl » Wed Nov 15, 2017 7:31 pm

If it's on a stand get your significant other to sit in the car and press hard on the brake pedal. But yes, much easier with a wheel attached and jumping on the breaker bar. Force + speed works best, not just force.
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Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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Post by dfoyl » Wed Nov 15, 2017 7:34 pm

I'd be interested in the gearbox...can you lmk if still available.
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Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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Post by Johnny T » Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:57 am

Just an update

Managed to install the rear diff into the new car but will need to drill new holes for the cross members to fit (not sure if i am calling it the correct part) and installed the rear shocks :)

The next part I will need to do is put the rear brakes, so far I haven’t had any major issues.

I will be removing the air suspension from my black Vortex (looks good super low at the moment when its not bolted to the rear axle). If I'm going to sell the air suspension how much would they be worth and also where is the control box for it or is it in the ECU?

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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:45 pm

Looks good low ;)

Dunno what air suspension is worth... I'm sure someone will pick it up - chuck it up on gumtree.

Before you do, I'd be keen to see pics, particularly of the rear shocks ;)

The rear crossmember that you talk about is commonly known as the mustache bar...

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:51 am

Hi everyone

Just an update. I have tried to install the rear breaks from the XT6 and came across a bit of a problem with connecting the break caliper to the backing plate. The issue I have is that the backing plate from the XT4 is to small for the XT6 Caliper on as the backing plate bolt holes for the calipers are 15mm too small. Is there anywhere I can get a set of XT6 backing plates sent over to Australia or would another backing plate from an older impreza fit? Worst case I will have to find a fabricator and get it custom adjusted.

The other issue I have that I will be removing the engine from my black Vortex and trying to find in the service manuals on the instructions on what I need to do. I have opened "1988 Service Manual Section 2 & 3" Section 2.11 and not getting much help as the note for engine removal only states the removal for the er27 engine and not the ea82, would the steps still be the same as the XT6 Engine? Also can anyone direct me on to what page in the service booklet I need to look up so I can get the engine and gearbox out correctly?

Thanks again everyone for all the advice
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:26 am

Can't quote page references but the EA82 removal will be about the same as the ER27, except for the small differences with the turbo stuff.

Gearbox procedure should be the same.

As for rear backing plates, you can use the EJ gear but may have to drill a new hole for the single rear bolt. The EJ has 4 bolts in a square pattern.

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Feb 05, 2018 2:17 pm

Thanks Bennie

would any EJ plates work?
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Feb 07, 2018 2:29 pm

I don't know as I haven't done it myself, I just know that this is the go with the EJ brake conversion.

I do know that Gen1 stuff definitely works. They will still need mods to fit, drill a hole as mentioned.

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Post by wagonist » Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:46 am

Johnny T wrote:Just an update
I will be removing the air suspension from my black Vortex (looks good super low at the moment when its not bolted to the rear axle). If I'm going to sell the air suspension how much would they be worth and also where is the control box for it or is it in the ECU?
Been away for awhile. Didn't realise this forum was still up & running :p
Did you end up selling the air shocks?
And were they still holding air?

I'm fixing up an import Turbo touring wagon & these were already swapped out. Was about to start ripping out the air line & compressor, etc, but if I could get the shocks...
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Post by Johnny T » Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:10 am

Hey Wagonist,

I have sent you a PM
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Apr 24, 2018 11:45 pm

How's this little project bubbling these days?

Cheers

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Post by Johnny T » Thu Apr 26, 2018 2:30 pm

Hi Bennie,

Sorry haven't has much time to post or do much as my better half and I are prepping up a nursery for our little one in October, so this project maybe on hold again lol :)

Everything is going well, I have the engine out, front struts in and should be putting the backing plates in a few weeks as I'm getting them made with a laser cutter.

The next step is for me is to get the 3sp Auto out and get the car rolling so the bay can get painted. fingers crossed this will be done by the end of next month :)
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Apr 29, 2018 8:54 pm

Get all projects/book read on your book list/sleep done before the little one arrives!

And don't worry about the nursery, they'll sleep where ever you put them :p

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Post by Johnny T » Mon May 21, 2018 12:48 pm

Hi everyone, just a small update.

I am picking up my backing plates tomorrow night (got them laser cut to fit the rear hubs) and just trying to find where to buy a new set of disc (front and rear) for when they can't be used as I have them machined and was told they will last for another 20,000k - 30,000k before I need to find replacements. Would anyone know where I can get a set of XT6 brake discs?

Thanks again and more photos to come shortly in the next few weeks :)
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue May 29, 2018 10:02 am

If you've got Xt6 gear, you can run what ever EJ brake kit you want, at least up to the Gen3's stuff.

Plenty of options in the Gen1 and Gen2s ;)

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Post by Johnny T » Mon Jul 09, 2018 7:10 am

Hi guys

just an update, I have both engines out and had my Turbo checked by my mechanic (its in good condition) but and I am after a gasket for the turbo to the exhaust as it damaged. I know that findings a new one is out of the question but would anyone know where I can get a good second hand one from?
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Post by Gannon » Mon Jul 09, 2018 8:25 am

A TD04 one off a WRX should be close enough, the only difference is the rear hole in the flange is about 10mm further back
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Post by Johnny T » Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:09 am

Thanks Gannon

I called my local Subaru Dealer and managed to get 2 new ones (last ones as well) and should be picking them up later today. I'm thinking of keeping the other as a spare and using it as a template as I know you can get gasket paper just in-case I need to use it :)
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Re: My Vortex Project

Post by Johnny T » Tue Feb 26, 2019 11:22 am

Hi all

Just a small update. The car is almost ready to get the bay painted and when it comes back I'll be putting the engine back in after it gets a full service and change all the gaskets and pump etc..

I have been looking at some wheels and found a set of BBS wheels, but would like to know if it is what 19" wheels will fit without any issues. My options are:
19x8.5
19x9
19x9.5
19x10
19x11
19x12

These are the wheels I am looking at getting
Image

Any advise will be very helpful

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