World's simplest (shoddiest) rear bar & wheel carrier
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World's simplest (shoddiest) rear bar & wheel carrier
For some time I've been working on a design for a spare wheel carrier, but have been held back because I couldn't come up with a good cheap pivot that I could make without machining. The other day, while eyeballing people's bulk rubbish out for collection, I had a brilliant (IMHO) idea - use a bike steering head.
The other design requirement was that building it had to be within my limited metalworking skills , which means a tube frame rather than plate elements.
50x50 tube is almost the perfect size to slot into the chassis rails, and works nicely to make the 150mm height and the ~130mm front-back depth of the finished bar. I chose 3mm wall thickness, which I've since decided is massive overkill, because it's heavy, and won't deform in a collision. 2-2.5mm would be heaps.
First step: Make a couple of these to slide into the chassis rails and bolt up to the original bumper mounting points. The nuts need to be welded on in exactly the right spot to allow a tube on top without fouling the tailgate, and another below without fouling the towbar. I got that part a bit wrong and the tailgate just touches the upper tube.
Whack a tube on top, centre it and tack it on. IIRC this one is 1540mm long.
My design had another tube forward of this one, running the full width of the car, but it turns out the back of the car isn't straight in plan, but curved, so I just used a 300mm piece running out from each rail. The gap between the tubes is slightly more than the diameter of the bike steering head.
The pivot tubes were then welded on (one on the right for a possible jerry can). They're vertical viewed from the back, but leaning back a bit so that the wheel carrier arm will want to swing out 90deg. (I don't want struts to keep the arm out, and the bearings preclude a cam)
Fixing the 1" diameter x30mm long stub from the bike forks onto the 50mm tube of the arm was a bit fiddly. It worked out easier to weld the small tube into a bit of 30mm square tube, then weld that into the arm. Didn't get any pics of that though.
This is the other problem I ran into upon realising the bottom edge of the tailgate is curved. The arm can't swing all the way in. I put a 6deg angle on that top bar of the arm, so the wheel, once attached, will sit square to the car, even if the arm is a bit cock-eyed.
Rattle pin to secure the arm. Still need to weld a little tab onto the arm for it.
It works! Swings nicely, and (just)stays out where it should.
Still need to whack a plate with a couple of bolts onto the arm so I can actually attach the wheel, then a bit more work on the lower part of the bar with a spot for the number plate (when i f****n get them, but that's another story) and maybe recovery points, then fill in the gaps with some sheet. Might also try to incorporate some lights, as the pivots partially obscure the reversing lights and reflectors. I'll make another arm with a jerry can holder one day soon too
Dane.
The other design requirement was that building it had to be within my limited metalworking skills , which means a tube frame rather than plate elements.
50x50 tube is almost the perfect size to slot into the chassis rails, and works nicely to make the 150mm height and the ~130mm front-back depth of the finished bar. I chose 3mm wall thickness, which I've since decided is massive overkill, because it's heavy, and won't deform in a collision. 2-2.5mm would be heaps.
First step: Make a couple of these to slide into the chassis rails and bolt up to the original bumper mounting points. The nuts need to be welded on in exactly the right spot to allow a tube on top without fouling the tailgate, and another below without fouling the towbar. I got that part a bit wrong and the tailgate just touches the upper tube.
Whack a tube on top, centre it and tack it on. IIRC this one is 1540mm long.
My design had another tube forward of this one, running the full width of the car, but it turns out the back of the car isn't straight in plan, but curved, so I just used a 300mm piece running out from each rail. The gap between the tubes is slightly more than the diameter of the bike steering head.
The pivot tubes were then welded on (one on the right for a possible jerry can). They're vertical viewed from the back, but leaning back a bit so that the wheel carrier arm will want to swing out 90deg. (I don't want struts to keep the arm out, and the bearings preclude a cam)
Fixing the 1" diameter x30mm long stub from the bike forks onto the 50mm tube of the arm was a bit fiddly. It worked out easier to weld the small tube into a bit of 30mm square tube, then weld that into the arm. Didn't get any pics of that though.
This is the other problem I ran into upon realising the bottom edge of the tailgate is curved. The arm can't swing all the way in. I put a 6deg angle on that top bar of the arm, so the wheel, once attached, will sit square to the car, even if the arm is a bit cock-eyed.
Rattle pin to secure the arm. Still need to weld a little tab onto the arm for it.
It works! Swings nicely, and (just)stays out where it should.
Still need to whack a plate with a couple of bolts onto the arm so I can actually attach the wheel, then a bit more work on the lower part of the bar with a spot for the number plate (when i f****n get them, but that's another story) and maybe recovery points, then fill in the gaps with some sheet. Might also try to incorporate some lights, as the pivots partially obscure the reversing lights and reflectors. I'll make another arm with a jerry can holder one day soon too
Dane.
lol Lenigas, obviously he hasn't finished it yet :P
Great work Dane I might have to pop over some time to check it out in more detail. One of these days I'm definitely going to have a go at this.
Great work Dane I might have to pop over some time to check it out in more detail. One of these days I'm definitely going to have a go at this.
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
I like it! simple, but it appears to be secure enough and doesn't seem to affect you departure angle.
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VER7 STI (FOR SALE) & RIP EJ22 AWD LEONE
PIX @ www.webshots.com/user/4muff
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quote ... 02861.htmlI hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
looks good and its simple... does it rattle/vibrate?
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
Too late now but I was thinking A big ball bearing in the bottom of a bit of tube with a bar inset like on a gate hinge! But you would be able to swing yours with a broken pinkie its that good!
87 targa brumby (Neglected),
92 targa brumby (weekend runabout),
97 Lifted Outback (Dailey drive),
05 outback safety (Too cheap to pass up),
90 model liberty (was to be scrapped instead sold to workmate)
+ others.
92 targa brumby (weekend runabout),
97 Lifted Outback (Dailey drive),
05 outback safety (Too cheap to pass up),
90 model liberty (was to be scrapped instead sold to workmate)
+ others.
Got a little bit more done on this today.
Rounded off the corners and capped them.
Added a diagonal brace across the wheel carrier arm, and a bit of angle to further support the pivot tube. Also some fresh primer after I had to buzz the corner off the tailgate with the grinder .
Really needs new springs in the back now.
Number plate temporarily moved sideways. The plan is to recess it into the bar when I have a bit more time on my hands.
And in other news: she's on the road! (or just beside the road here)
Alpine Raven, I've been watching it in the mirror for nearly 1000km now, and it doesn't look like it's moving anywhere. The tab on the swing arm is shaped so that you have to push against the wheel to do up the rattle pin, and holds the swing arm nice and tight.
Dane.
Rounded off the corners and capped them.
Added a diagonal brace across the wheel carrier arm, and a bit of angle to further support the pivot tube. Also some fresh primer after I had to buzz the corner off the tailgate with the grinder .
Really needs new springs in the back now.
Number plate temporarily moved sideways. The plan is to recess it into the bar when I have a bit more time on my hands.
And in other news: she's on the road! (or just beside the road here)
Alpine Raven, I've been watching it in the mirror for nearly 1000km now, and it doesn't look like it's moving anywhere. The tab on the swing arm is shaped so that you have to push against the wheel to do up the rattle pin, and holds the swing arm nice and tight.
Dane.
- Captain Obvious
- General Member
- Posts: 1292
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: maryborough
if you had and old bumper skin you could attach it over that frame...
bryan
bryan
[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]
The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS
The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS