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Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 2:02 am
by El_Freddo
Bennie’s September 2018 Trip

It’s about time I got this sorted, a few details have slipped and I’m not so good with the names of ppl I just met. Apologies to these ppl I met on the trip, I hope I haven’t offended you and I hope we cross paths on another trip soon!

So before we really begin, our planned trip was delayed for two days due to prep plans not working in our favour. By the time we’d packed it was late enough to say it’s not worth the effort to leave now, only to set up camp a few hours out of Benders. So we decided to get up super early and roll out of town in the wee wee hours of Thursday the 27th of Sept.

Our aim was to visit the top North Westerly point of Vic and McCabe’s corner where NSW, SA and VIC borders all meet. Then head south along the border track from the very tip of Vic, into the Murray Sunset NP middle section before meeting up at Pinnaroo on Friday with a group of fellow subi nuts from a facebook group that we decided to hook up with for the border track run in the Ngarkat NP on the SA side of the border.

Day 1 - Thursday, 4am we were up, packed those last few bits and headed off at about 4:30am. Fuelled everything up and off we went, headed for Mildura for our next fuel stop before we hit the desert. We had a good run and to set the trip off we swung around to snap the sunrise, about an hour out of Ouyen from memory:

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We refuelled in Mildura, added a few bits to the kit that we forgot but worked out at breakfast (north of Ouyen beside the rail line).

Once on the border, we turned right off the Sturt Hwy and headed north towards the corners of the three states. We saw a couple of these along the way:

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Headed for McCabe’s corner first, this is as close as we could get. I’ve been told it’s about 4km from the actual point:

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We then turned around and tried for the Vic Tip. This is as far north as we could get:

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We did our usual country thing that we grew up with – stop and ask a local! The farmer didn’t seem very welcoming at first but after an introduction and what we were doing he gave us some information that was super handy but not so great for what we were trying to achieve.

Firstly, McCabe’s corner is in the middle of the River. This is the point where NSW/Vic/SA meet. The land on the Vic side is now owned by someone who doesn’t want the public visiting and they’ve effectively shut off any access tracks to the area. So it’s by boat access only now. I’ve read on the web that there’s a monument, I believe on the NSW side of the river.

The tip of Vic was another story. No actual tracks to get there, even from the SA side. But it could be accessed by following the fence line “bush bashing”. The fella we were talking to didn’t go into much detail about this option as it would’ve been on his land – or his neighbours… We opted to turn around and head south, aiming for the Shearer’s Quarters for our camp for the night. It could’ve been an ambitious trek depending on what lay ahead. We had planned to camp on the Murray at one of these places but that changed.

On our return trip south from where we’d come we stopped for a few highlights along the way, first, this survey marker:

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^ Someone did a good job on that one! Even the official “government peg” beside it says that the marker is 3m to the south of the peg!

Then this interesting kink – not many people seem to know that the Vic/SA border is not actually straight. Or that there’s about an 11km section of Murray River where SA is on the northern banks of the river with Vic on the southern side… So this kink in the border, Looking south:

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Looking north east-ish:

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^ Behind me there’s another corresponding corner that re-aligns with the border, it’s about 150-200m further along.

When we first hit this section of track we saw Shingle-Back after Shingle-Back. I snapped this little one, then promised the crew that I’d get a pic of them with the next one (that we didn’t see until the next day – Murphy’s Law!).

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We crossed the Sturt Hwy and pulled up at the start of the next section so we couldn’t see the main road and had some lunch. While we were doing this a police car (territory) drove past on the main section. That was interesting. Next thing we knew he was on our side track in front of us, didn’t hear him until he was right on us. We had a chat, he complemented our setup for desert travel and he told us of a few 2wd vehicle rescues he’s been involved with – he put them down to the GPS showing them into the desert without any warnings of the terrain or requirements for self sufficiency out here. Off he went and so did we. This is basically what we saw for the majority of the rest of the day until we swung in an easterly direction to get the to Shearer’s Quarters:

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There were a number of sections that would be quite boggy in winter, and a couple of little climbs that could be done too. Generally it was pretty easy going. Once headed east the vegetation changed to more Mallee Gum and we encountered some “fun” corrugations in the road:

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This was an interesting “find” – an airstrip in the middle of nowhere!

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As we neared the Shearer’s Quarters, we saw a couple of wild goats that roam this area, then we were there. Not the greatest pic as I couldn’t get Ruby Scoo in the best position due to the vegetation out the front of the place. There’s a big 6 (maybe) vehicle shed off to the right of the image:

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The campground is about 100m further up the track in some lovely native pines or Sheoak. I’m not totally up with the different species but they’re a cool native tree none the less. At dinner time the new cargo setup was working its magic! Unfortunately there was a massive stuff-up with my Bunnings Special Order and the slides for the kitchen box didn’t arrive, so it’s perched in place in this image – but still demonstrated that the design worked well for us:

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The next day we did a “Blockie” – headed east from the Shearer’s Quarters, then north, then west, then south with a run along the airstrip (my top speed for the desert trip while “out bush” – 80kmph – I didn’t know the condition of the airstrip and I wasn’t out to break any land speed records, it was just nice to drive without corrugations for a little bit). Just east of the camp the vegetation did another dramatic change from open Mallee gum to this Sheoak tree from camp:

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It was a really cool looking area and the whole ambience was changed just from the vegetation. It clearly followed a change in soil or hydrodynamics underground. And this is why we did a blockie – The Creator:

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It really did look like a creator, but it’s more likely that it’s a result of salinity, wind and sand movement. Of course the little sign in the bush says “vehicles prohibited” or something of the like but those muppets that think it’s their entitlement to go where they want had been here and driven all over the bottom of the creator, leaving huge track marks everywhere. It’s disappointing that people have to go and ruin these places. They’ll only get closed up if we don’t look after them!

On our way in to the Shearer’s Quarters there was this track that intrigued me, they always do:

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So of course we took it rather than heading back to the Border Track. It was a fun section that could have a bit of pace going if you were careful. Basically you’d crest small sandy dunes that weren’t really steep or anything, more rises than actual dune dunes, if you know what I mean! The vegetation was mainly Mallee and it looked like this on a high point:

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We passed a photographer who was just as surprised to see us as we were to see him! Getting bored of this track I (I say I as Mrs El Freddo had fallen asleep at this point) decided to head back to the Border Track. I felt like I’d missed a good section of it. So we turned right and headed west… on this complete goat’s track:

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I was worried about staking a tyre on a hidden mallee root or collecting spinifex looking grass under the vehicle and starting a fire, but none of those issues arose and I was very glad when we finally met the Border Track again. This section was interesting as we started seeing some actual dune climbs, typically with flat clay based sections in between so it wasn’t as exciting as Big Desert or the next section of the Border Track in the Ngarkat NP. That was until we got to this little pocket of good fun:

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Behind me in this pic is a short sharp drop off the top of the last dune. You sort of meander your way up it then drop into this sandy “valley”. This pic was after my first attempt to get out – and it was at the time we should’ve been meeting the group in Pinnaroo. So I aired down for the first time this trip (yes, I was lazy, but I also didn’t really trust the roadies with Mallee root so kept them aired up until I really had to drop pressures, like now…). It did cross my mind that we could get stuck here – then I thought about the cop yesterday with his recovery stories… Anyway, second attempt was pretty good and I didn’t need to stress!

From here the sandy dunes became more frequent until we “ran out of 4wd tracks” and ended up on public roads – this was like the back block section while we tried to cut our way down the border as close as possible. It involves heading east for a few km, then south west, then west before you find the next section. We pulled up because we’d never seen this before – MASSIVE tumbleweed!

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No joke, we found many of these to be as tall as the window sill of Ruby Scoo. We even found one with a Witchetty Grub living in the stem. Poor bugger got a free ride they probably didn’t want! To the left of this pic (in the west) were a number of farm crops. This tumbleweed was probably about 10m deep into the bush depending on how many larger trees were around to stop the penetration by the weed. From here it became a bit tiresome to try and follow the “official” border track. So we cut into SA and headed for Pinnaroo to fuel up and grab some basic veg etc.

The BP on the main road was a bit of a 4wd circus when we arrived. It made us realise that the next day’s adventure might be a bit of a bumper to bumper car park event. I wasn’t looking forward to that. And of course everyone was here, it was the AFL Grand Final weekend – all Victorians had the Friday public holiday and SA had the Monday public holiday. Great.

We headed into Big Desert State Forest solo to meet up at camp as communicated by Nachaluva and a mate we’d invited last minute (more on that shortly). About to hit the sand on our way to camp – about 15km IIRC:

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We arrived at camp, no one around so we parked up and waited. It was blisteringly cold with an unrelenting wind. The weather for this whole trip was cooler than usual and tonight was definitely a low point. Eventually the group met up after their afternoon’s adventure’s playing around at Thompson’s Peak.

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Going back to that mate we invited last minute, that’s the Prado. Our friend purchased it a week and a half before we left for this trip and they managed to slip it into their schedule for something different. They drove this thing well and enjoyed their trip. I admire their courage with such sort ownership of their first 4wd. I have a mate that owns a 130 Defender, tells me how it’s a real 4wd etc yet it’s never seen any action beyond a typical dirt road…

Day three of the trip. We lined up as others finalised their setup with pressures etc. Other played in a bog hole, not to stereotype, but it was the P platers that wanted to have some fun.

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The Pretty Disco in the group got bogged, the 110 Defender pulled them out (the green one above, driven by “Dave Groll”), then ripped through it. Then we met some rangers. The gist of that conversation was that we were on private land – and we also needed a vehicle permit to enter the Ngarkat NP. $10 per day. News to us, it wasn’t like this the last time we visited 4 years ago. I guess the SA government is doing it tough atm, at least that’s what my uncle tells me!

The rangers also told us the track was pretty chopped up and in poor condition so it could be tough getting through (yes!).

We all scrambled back up the track to get phone reception to book our passes. There was much radio chatter about which website and how many days we needed – one or two. One if you’re confident in what you’re doing and know your setup. Two if you’re just cruising. If going for two days, you’ll also need a camping permit!

From here the fun began and excitement was high. Not many pics from here due to mainly driving. We met a few groups along the way, one that wanted to push past, so we let them through, only then to have them slow down and block us. That was probably the most frustrating part of the day I reckon.

Here’s one of the early dunes that Ruby Scoo got hung up on. This climb was rutted out by diagonally articulated vehicles, so it was a hole on the left, then right, then left, then right etc. Too deep for me to skip over them and maintain my momentum:

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Some track work and we were off again.

Generally speaking, the track was easier than when Nachaluva and I did it four years earlier with a few other mates. The base was firmer and the daily temps much cooler too.

At lunch we stopped and watched this group do a dune climb. They drove like your typical steep climber – when the engine bogs give it more until you get out of it, but you don’t get out, you just dig deep holes and quick! Then we were surprised to see one TOWING a camper van up the dune…

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Yay, they clearly can’t read! But they made it with some real effort. I don’t think the track liked it though! For Ruby Scoo we went around this climb after seeing how rutted out it was. It’s not worth throwing my “historic” subi over that for the sake of it while out touring.

A couple of k’s further down the track and some good little dune climbs with ruts and stuff I realise I don’t have my DSLR with me… where did I have it last..? Oh ____!! I had it on the roof at lunch and left it there while I tended to something with the intention of taking more pics. Luckily it was still where I left it between some deck chairs!! Bloody lucky! This was the point where I found it, and you can see more of what was to come in front of us:

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The later parts of the Border Track become flatter and you can pick up some pace if you’re careful about it. You also have to be aware of fatigue too. Mis-read the section of track in front of you while at speed could result in your vehicle being violently thrown around up and down. Not fun!

While collecting some Mallee root for the fire I snapped Ruby Scoo with a couple of the Foresters:

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We made it to Red Bluff campground on the Vic side of the border (few k’s in actually). It was packed. A small group from our group decided to bug out back home (they’re nuts!). We ended up finding a neat patch near the entry to the camp ground. There would’ve been about 80 4wds here! It’s the most packed bush camp ground I’ve EVER stayed in! Here’s our little setup from the top of Red Bluff:

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And half the camp ground including our bit, and the fellas we passed earlier on the track skull dragging a Gen2 Pajero all wearing cricket whites… must’ve been a buck’s party or a cricket team’s bonding trip, either way they were tame and enjoying a late arvo game of cricket that you might see in this pic:

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Red Bluff in the setting sun’s light:

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Day four. Pack up camp and head south before departing each other’s company for the trip home for others and our trip into Radelaide! This day had the second dune that Nachaluva was looking forward to on the trip! It’s another good little play area too. Ruby Scoo climbed, “watched” and decended. Actually we went back down from where we came to try a different route to the top, anyway, pics!

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Crazy angles!

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Mitre’s foz looking tough:

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The SH completing another climb:

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@Nachaluva cresting:

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The sand pit doughnut hole. Last time we were here this was just a flat space!

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While parked here watching the action up top, namely a recovery of Mitre’s foz that ended up in the scrub on a precarious angle, we met several other groups of 4wds that passed through. All were out for a good time, one fella put his patrol on its side the day before. He cracked his windscreen and dented the front RHS guard. All his mates were still giving him poo about it! He was bloody lucky I reckon!
Everyone was interested in the Subarus being out and about. It was a good attitude change to what we’ve typically come up against while out bush!

The last section of the track before you get pushed out to the main road meanders it’s way through the border easement with little dune climbs and tight corners on a narrow track. While in this section we found this lazy thing kicking back:

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After completing all the track we could for the Border, we aired up, said our goodbyes and headed off in all sorts of directions. We continued west towards Radelaide. We still had plenty of fuel in the tank and two jerry cans full so opted to skip on fuelling up at Bordertown. Now, I can’t remember at what point along the way this was, but the car had a vibration under acceleration that was getting worse as time went on. This came on suddenly. Then it couldn’t maintain cruising speed. I worked out pretty quickly that we were running out of fuel. We pulled over by this beautiful old ruin off the side of the Duke’s Hwy:

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I also investigated a squeaking noise that seemed to be getting worse. Initially before the trip I could hear it just at walking pace as the car began to move – and I hoped it wasn’t a clutch issue. I couldn’t find anything, mounts seemed good etc.

We continued on while making plans for where to stay the night. We selected a little caravan park on the Radelaide side of Tailem Bend, it took us down a side road then down to the Mighty Murray River. We got a spot for the night for a top price and it was BEAUT!

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Couldn’t have got a better spot! The facilities were a little dated but clean which is always the important detail. It was good to have a shower! Our plan for the next day was to enjoy the morning then head over to the Monarto Zoo after dropping in the second jerry can of fuel. The Monarto Zoo is another step up on our Werribee Zoo. Plan a FULL day to be here if you want to see most of it! Being that we forgot this Monday was SA’s public holiday, we encountered this line out the front of the zoo’s front gate!

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Well, we decided to high tail it from there and come back another day rather than put up with crowds. Since we were on the old highway we decided to take it all the way into the city if we could. It was great to visit some places that family used to live in too, there’s a lot more urban sprawl out there too, it seems to be an epidemic :(

Then we came to Harndorf. Awesome little German town…

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…until you put a festival in the middle of the single main rd town. That wasn’t much fun! We continued to follow the old highway as much as we could, we fuelled up at some point too.

In the end we made it into Radelaide, and that squeak had turned into some other noise that was becoming concerning. We cruised around checking out a few things before finding another caravan park to crash at for the night. We stayed at Moana Beach CP. Nice beach a stone’s throw away too:

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At some point I realised the issue with the noise was a uni joint. It was now becoming a nasty vibration. Plans were made to visit a wreckers and HOPE another L series was there (these are getting thin on the ground – and are basically non-existent in Melb’s self serve parts yards). There was ONE there, and it still had its tail shaft. I took the whole thing, and a turbo crossmember from a vortex (score!).

We caught up with some family for dinner then headed off to camp out at Pink Gums in the Adelaide Hills. This campsite was recently refurbished, and wasn’t really my idea of “camping” as such, but it was a neat area anyway. Again, a permit was needed to camp here.

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Before we headed off I swapped out the tailshaft. Here’s the offending unit. There’s no way we could’ve made it home with this the way it was – and we were reduced to 80kmph the night before:

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After that was sorted we headed back to the Monarto Zoo for most of a day out there, then head home. The leg it home didn’t happen. We ended up getting a hotel in Tintinara for the night and tripping home the next day ( day 8 ). On our way home we decided to mix things up and make a detour to Stawell for some pics at the Sister Rocks, then head to Benders via the back roads – and we took some back roads! We found some places to go exploring on our way back home. It was looking dodgy for a bit there!

The Sister Rocks, I don’t condone graffiti at the best of times, and I really hate it in the bush – yet this makes an interesting backdrop and is the only place I’ve seen like this (I hope it stays that way! – the number of locations like this is what I mean!):

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Once again, a great trip away. These need to happen more often! I’m very happy with the setup in Ruby Scoo. The new cargo space has “revolutionised” how we operate with the vehicle and our gear. Not having to remove our stuff from above the fridge to access it was a real game changer as was the “kitchen cabinet” - that still needs to be finished off…

If you’ve made it this far I hope I haven’t turned you off from reading trip reports. Glad I FINALLY got it done!

Regards

Bennie

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 2:18 pm
by Suby Spanner
Looks like a fun trip.

I had my old white brumby up red bluff several times: I could never gut up the big sand hill along the fence, the ruts were too deep and I'd always belly out. So I'd have to wind the track up to the west to get over that. That's 15-20 years ago now, and rarely anyone camped there, often you'd only see two or three vehicles once you got on the sand track. How things change.

We used to see some of those 4wd guys pull into town, absolutely covered in mud: You really don't need to get like that on the border track so it was obvious they were being stupid. Hopefully they all behave these days, we don't want those parks becoming restricted. One of my mates dad had an old 720 2wd make it to red bluff. What a laugh.

Thanks for posting the pics. Next time I'm down that way might stir up the old man and take a trip up there again.

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:23 pm
by Silverbullet
Awesome report mate! Looks like a nice week out and about. One day I'll be out there with you...one day :mrgreen:

I could see how all those camping spots will get choked up and only get busier from now on. Seems like every other car on the road here is a twin cab monster truck or some other big flash 4WD and they all want to test them out somewhere :roll: The more people that go then the more chance of having a nitwit amongst them too sadly.

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:27 pm
by El_Freddo
Suby Spanner - I’ve not actually driven Red Bluff track that heads east/west on the edge of the park! Just the border track.
As for mid covered vehicles, you should see the big holes in the lower section before you get pushed out back to the black top - deep enough to swallow a full sized 4wd easy. And there’s are HEAPS of them, to the point that there’s a section where it’s getting difficult to go around them :(

Silverbullet, sorry we didn’t get to catch up this time round, it was another busy visit to Adelaide!

As for places getting busier, maybe. But in this case we were out and about on a long weekend - for two states no less! Add in the fact that in the SA parks you need to pay for vehicle entry per day and also camping fees per night. In Vic we don’t have these, and you can do this section of the border track in a day from Pinnaroo to Red Bluff camp ground, or even Bordertown if you start early.

In saying that I’d like to do some exploring further west into the Ngarkat park. Might look into this on our next trip to Adelaide. That’ll probably be in April all going well! Hoping to hit up Robe on our way back too...

Cheers

Bennie

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:24 pm
by pitrack_1
Well written report, great pics. A very enjoyable read and congrats on the trip.

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 5:04 pm
by El_Freddo
Thanks Pitrack! No need to congratulate me, just want and like to share to hopefully help inspire others to get out there and enjoy the bush - then share it with us so we want to go back out again!

Hopefully there will be more than one trip this year. We’ll see!

I forgot to add this video earlier (because I forgot about it :???:) - it’s by Mitre, one of the guys on the trip. He put a lot of effort into his videos and I reckon it pays off too.

This is the third video. You can look up the other two, they’re not actually of the border track, just the other part of their trip before we all hit the track.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e0TMqKur1ZE

I need to fix my exhaust leak too. I didn’t realise I was lawn mower spec!

Cheers

Bennie

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:29 pm
by pitrack_1
Thanks Bennie, your post and the video may just inspire me to do some such thing in the future. We're looking to upgrade our diesel forester now (10 yrs/ 200+k km) so if the trade-in's not worth it maybe I'll use it as a AWD 'beater' for some fun. Otherwise I'd like a new Suzuki Jimny to go 'play'! :oops:

Note the diesel forester DPF has some issues in the country:
- It can clag up from not going fast enough to do a DPF burn
- it can apparently warp the exhaust system if you hit water during a DPF burn (think 600-700C metal into water)
- it can easily set fire to dry material during a DPF burn (ask Ford Ranger / Mazda BT50 owners).

Based on your linked video it seems the SH needs some work to get it ship-shape for that type of trip.

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:00 am
by Bumpty
Always great to see your epic adventures, Bennie!

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:37 pm
by El_Freddo
Cheers Bumpty!

Will you come on one of these someday??

Cheers

Bennie

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:21 pm
by Bumpty
Hmm, maybe one day if I ever have a suitable vehicle for such adventures again.

Until then though, I’ll just continue enjoying your write ups!

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:59 pm
by Suby Spanner
Just watched Mitres video.... Damn, I shoulda been there.

I reckon the tree that got nailed, was the path where I'd have to shoot around to the west, as I could never make it along the fence.

Can't believe the rocking and bucking in places: I'm guessing that's from these 4wd boys with massive, massive tyres and lockers that just churn constantly. Last time I hit red bluff was probably 2000???

Would have loved to see an outback or two :/

Got me craving to get my brumby upto spec again......

Re: Trip Report (49 pics) - Pack a Lunch - Sept/Oct Border Tk SA run

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 10:41 pm
by El_Freddo
Bumpty wrote:
Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:21 pm
Until then though, I’ll just continue enjoying your write ups!
And I will continue to write them ;)
Suby Spanner wrote:
Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:59 pm
Just watched Mitres video.... Damn, I shoulda been there.
Yeah you should’ve been! As should’ve the other two L’s that had their hat in the ring but pulled out for their own reasons.
Suby Spanner wrote:
Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:59 pm
I reckon the tree that got nailed, was the path where I'd have to shoot around to the west, as I could never make it along the fence.
At that place he was headed north and caught a rut that pulled him to the west. Pretty funny looking back at it. The recovery was quite a hold up though.
Suby Spanner wrote:
Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:59 pm
Can't believe the rocking and bucking in places: I'm guessing that's from these 4wd boys with massive, massive tyres and lockers that just churn constantly. Last time I hit red bluff was probably 2000???
Yeah there were a number of sections like this and two different types - massive bucking from those large opposing holes left then right and smaller of the same pattern. The smaller ones were awesome - the subi’s would level out and skip over them no worries! The larger ones were not good and threw your vehicle around quite a bit at times. Sometimes you could skip over a hole or two if you were lucky. But more often than not you were thrown around. I’d still do it again!
Suby Spanner wrote:
Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:59 pm
Would have loved to see an outback or two :/

Got me craving to get my brumby upto spec again......
It would’ve been good to see more of a spread in the Subaru department. Foresters and an L was alright though. I don’t think half the Foz boys had seen an L before let alone a kitted our one :twisted:

You should get your brumby sorted! We’re looking at hitting up Robe again, it’s been too long!

Cheers

Bennie