Kokoda Track Trip Report - Dial up warning ;)

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El_Freddo
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Kokoda Track Trip Report - Dial up warning ;)

Post by El_Freddo » Fri May 01, 2009 4:29 pm

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As a few of you already know, I left for the Kokoda Track on the 20th of April. I was given this opportunity by my Mum who thought it a good Christmas pressie for my Dad, Brother and I – She was spot on. It was the most expensive pressie I’ve had, on my part that is. I had to get a passport sorted, that didn’t take long and wasn’t as painful as I thought it would be, then there was visa fees, spending money, updating equipment etc...

We started training in the forest behind our place, some of the vicco’s would know the hill, we climbed it before heading out to the water hole that Heath nearly drowned his subi in…

Anyway, we were a little anxious that our training wasn’t enough – we had been doing it when we could and always wore a 20kg pack.

So, Monday morning we got the earliest flight from Melbourne to Brisbane, this is how it started:

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We flew with the company that’s blue but their planes are red… Once in at Brisbane we got our luggage, just made the train before it left for the international terminal. I’m sure we were the last to check in, our flight was in a half hour. I got my passport stamped for the first time as I passed through customs – pleasant mob they are.

We then got on an old 767 to Port Moresby. We had a good flight. Once in Moresby we had a long wait for passport checks then luggage collection then through their customs. Once outside the heat and humidity hit us like a smack in the face. On our way to the hotel I got a bit of culture shock with the amount of people milling around, the road conditions and the general look of poverty that most of the locals probably faced.

We over-nighted at a hotel that was more like a compound. The next morning we were off on a “good bus” that had tattered seats, a set of dicky seats that folded down across the isle, had a missing wheel nut off each left wheel and every light on the rear end had a cracked or missing lense. Good times!

We first headed off to the War Cemetery at Bonana (I think). Quite a moving place, 3000 soldiers were buried here, some of them unknown:

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Then we headed off to Ower’s Corner where the start of our Trek was to begin. Along the way we had to travel on a “dirt” road – it had been raining earlier in the week and the road was quite soft. The driver knew his bus and got us through some situations that you would normally have thought a bus could not get through and most of the time he kept traction. There was only one occasion that we had to get out and lend a hand, this is how you 4wd a 2wd bus:

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And these are the “special” offroading tyres they use in PNG:

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A short down hill walk and we were at the beginning of the Kokoda Track. It is officially called the Kokoda Trail for some reason. Track is the Australian terminology but it wasn’t documented through the war with “track”.

The arches with Dad and Bros:

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The first big river crossing, and the only one we had to get this wet with:

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^ I was initially disappointed that I was not allowed to carry my pack on my shoulder like the porters did – half way across while losing traction I was glad I didn’t have my pack on my shoulder… Bros found a deep spot and went right under, he kept his boots dry though.

These were some of the track conditions we were “up against” – the april time of year is near the end of their wet season, a good time to go in my opinion. There was only a few days without any rain. Here’s a pic of the track:

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Post by El_Freddo » Fri May 01, 2009 4:31 pm

It was a weird feeling that hit home with me – I was on a battle field that fellow Australians fought and died on for what we have today – I remembered this at many points along the way.

This was on of the luxuries of the trek, I didn’t use my trowel once:

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This is another pic of the track, trying to show how steep some of the slopes over there can be:

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A typical river crossing, some were smaller logs lashed together:

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^ The brown river, you can guess why the name…

This is how we bathed most of the trip, there was one time we washed under a tap that was river fed:

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After the wash it started raining – this is one of the many guest houses along the way. You usually get to choose if you want to tent it up or crash in one of these locally designed buildings. We were in tents for three nights in total:

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Naduri, this here is a river fed tap. The ground was cleared of all grass to keep maintenance down – if the grass is there the jungle tries to move in again:

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This is me (again) walking up the spur to Brigade Hill where 68 Australian Diggers lost their lives in a large battle with the Japanese forces. We were walking in torrential rain, it was even worse than the biggest downpour I remember from my days in the NT:

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^ At least my undies didn’t get wet ;)
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Post by El_Freddo » Fri May 01, 2009 4:33 pm

This is the view from the top of Brigade Hill once the rain decided to give us a short break, it was breath-taking:

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We were up here for ANZAC Day – I must say that being on one of the battle sites that the Australian Diggers fought on made this ANZAC Day one to remember, it had a lot more significance than a memorial back at home:

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As we continued further towards Kokoda we saw more artifacts from the war:

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There are Australian Grenades, 2 inch mortars, I think there was a 3 inch mortar, a bren gun magazine and some old SLR’s and one Japanese rifle. The local land owner would charge each of us K5 – five Kina – for the opportunity of a photo. If it was an important site such as a downed aircraft or a large dug in fight position the land owner usually charged K10 each to see it. The next two pics are from such an area at Eora Creek where there was a major Japanese defensive dug into a ridgeline:

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This is the memorial at the Isurava Battle site – Private Kingsbury won a VC for his effort and sacrifice near the memorial for cutting a path through the Japanese attack line with a Bren gun. He was shot in the head by a sniper when he stopped to re-load:

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This is a pic of the Museum at the same battle site:

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This is my shadow in a creek that I was walking over – It got me thinking that it could be anyone, even one of the old diggers while fighting the war:

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Post by El_Freddo » Fri May 01, 2009 4:36 pm

Here we are. Made it! The memorial museum is further back and to the left of where this sign is. We checked out this area including the old fight pits further out on the plateau that the diggers used to defend their position from before cut and running.

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Unfortunately at this point my second battery died so I don’t have any aerial photos of the area. We had a half hour walk from the last photo’s position to the airstrip. I’ve never walked up the guts of a landing strip, it was a bit of a novelty. A twin otter aircraft picked us up a flew us to Port Moresby in about 25 minutes – it took us nine days to walk from one end to the other while checking out the different sites that makes the history and spirit of the Kokoda track. It is really something you have to experience to understand.

And here’s our plane back to Oz, I had to get up at 3am for this flight…

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Then we had a 4 or so hour stop off in Brisbane before a 2.5-3hr flight into Melbourne. Gotta love travelling in planes.

We went on the Kokoda with a company that will only take up to 14 trekkers. We passed some massive groups along the walk, one of them being 120 clients! That was insane.

Some advice if you’re considering doing the 96km’s as the crow flies:

- Research the different companies to find one that suits what you need.
- Make sure they have a satellite phone and some first aid qualifications – as crazy as it sounds some of them don’t have one or the other.
- There are many different options available, check them out to find what you’re looking for and make sure it fits your budget
- Train for the walk, even if your company doesn’t tell you to, which they should as they have a duty of care towards you in your preparation.
- Pack an extra camera battery on top of what you think you need
- Take a bit of extra spending money.
- Make sure your first aid kit has some anti gastro tablets etc and is up to date – make sure no one has raided it without your knowledge, this happened to me :(

I went for the “one pair of socks” challenge and came out a winner… It's not for everyone!

Overall a great experience that I would recommend to anyone that wants to pay their respects to the diggers or has an interest in war history.


Cheers

Bennie
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Post by d_generate » Sat May 02, 2009 1:35 am

Great story & pics, well worth the read, how much in Aus currency is 5 whatever it was they were charging to take pics.
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Post by steptoe » Sat May 02, 2009 1:49 am

really pleased to see you and your family members made it back - alive. Some did not in recent weeks as you are prolly aware. I'll say 'nice pics' for when i get onto faster broadband - currently only got fringe reception

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Post by FROG » Sat May 02, 2009 9:58 am

Great experience and great pics and write up as always Bennie
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Post by Subafury » Sat May 02, 2009 2:09 pm

nice write up mate. and good effort for doing the whole walk.
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Post by AlpineRaven » Sat May 02, 2009 5:01 pm

Interesting there, and what a nice write up... it would have been awesome/ very interesting experience!!! The bus's tyres is shocky!
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Post by subaruby » Sat May 02, 2009 8:33 pm

Good to see you back, nice report and good pics from what must have been a great trip. Must have been good to do it with you dad and brother as well.
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun May 03, 2009 10:40 pm

d_generate wrote:how much in Aus currency is 5 whatever it was they were charging to take pics.
We got K1.6 for one Aussie dollar, I can't be bothered working out what its converted to...
steptoe wrote:really pleased to see you and your family members made it back - alive. Some did not in recent weeks as you are prolly aware. I'll say 'nice pics' for when i get onto faster broadband - currently only got fringe reception
Yeah, its all in the preparation, looking after yourself and probabily a bit to do with being in a small personal group rather than a larger group... And don't worry, you'll get there with the broadband ;)
FROG wrote:Great experience and great pics and write up as always Bennie
Cheers Frog, I've had plenty of practise... The hardest bit was deciding which photos to post up, there's a bit over 900 of them to choose from (and only 5 good ones :p)!
Subafury wrote:nice write up mate. and good effort for doing the whole walk.
Thank's Subafury, with enough training and will to do the walk, realistically anyone could do it ...
AlpineRaven wrote:Interesting there, and what a nice write up... it would have been awesome/ very interesting experience!!! The bus's tyres is shocky!
Yeah AP it was an awesome experience, ANZAC day was very moving - a lot different and more meaningful than the ceremonies back at home (and I'm not saying that the home memorials are unmeaningful in anyway...)

Those tyres are what got us there without a problem! And that was the good bus, I would not have wanted to see the not-so-good bus that was originally arranged for us! I found that tear when I took the photo, we all knew it had bald tyres but didn't really care - I wanted to expeience the local culture and I reckon this was a part of it, most of them are very proud of their wheels no matter how beaten up they are.
subaruby wrote:Must have been good to do it with you dad and brother as well.
It was a good trip with dad and bros. Mum wanted "the boys" to go and do something blokey together that we'd all work together for, I'm sure she got what she wanted to from it, I know we did!

Thanks everyone for your feedback, its most welcome - I post these trip reports for two reasons - 1. To share with others what I've been up to and show what's possible to do and 2. I enjoy writing them up to share if people like to read them, otherwise they wouldn't be here...

Again, if anyone is considering walking the kokoda track please do read the tips I've given and give them a thought in your preparation.

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by tex » Mon May 04, 2009 10:13 pm

When we went we got a lift in the back of some hiluxs to where the busses could pick us up from!
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu May 14, 2009 6:15 pm

tex wrote:When we went we got a lift in the back of some hiluxs to where the busses could pick us up from!
Yeah it was pretty good seeing a ute with a pile of people in the back of it, something I miss doing back in oz...

Well its been about two weeks since getting back from the trip - its not a distant memory but it does feel like the walk was a long time ago. I wouldn't mind some warmer weather either!

Our group has been chatting away via email. Dad, Bros and I received a set of certificates to congratulate/commemorate our trek, it arrived in the mail today... The certificate came with a group photo at Kokoda as the feature of the certificate. It'll look good framed I reckon.

On reflection the walk is something I'd love to do again. The group of strangers I left with are now a bunch of mates that shared a unique experience together...
Being back at home I've had some fun adjusting back to the cold weather (and the heating not working properly), chasing some coin and also sorting out my EJ conversion, got 3000km til I bump above my goal...

Here's a photoshoped image of several photos joined together to show the kokoda valley, the green strip is the kokoda airstrip, I know its small - when ever I try to enlarge it the image becomes so big that my screen can only see the top portion of the top left hand corner in my screen:

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Cheers

Bennie
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Post by phillatdarwin » Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:08 pm

what a grate story you have hear .
And it is awesome experience, ANZAC day if you are overseas at a place wear we have been at war in a place being so eaningful than the ceremonies back at home i had a chance of that in east timor in 2000 as the Australia army put so much work in to that it was so good and very moveing i just wish i just had some pics of it as it was so unreal .
I like your story and all the good pics u posted .

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