5 speed into MY

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Matatak
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5 speed into MY

Post by Matatak » Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:42 am

so i know theres a lot of info on doing this conversion scattered around this forum. but i think there shuld be a sticky somewhere.
theres a lot of people who have done this and more that will want to consider or do it in the future.

therefore all the facts of doing it should be brought into one thread. much like the current stickies in the "Conversions, modifications and performance" section

to start off with i am specifically referring to the L-series 5 speed DR gearbox being put into an MY series car that originally had a 4-speed Single or DR gearbox.


as for what i know on this conversion.
Cross Member - The original MY gearbox cross member and gearbox mounts can be reused with some modifications in the way of elongating the bolt holes for the mounts into the Cross member 4 to 5mm or so outwards. And elongating the Mount adapter plates between Gearbox and Mount so that they can actually bolt up to the Gearbox. (Make sure u keep them on the right sides as they are sided, then you can tell how they need to be done by inspecting.)

Tail shaft - (the long shaft running out of the gearbox to the rear Diff) As the Lseries gearbox is shorter than the MY gearbox it needs a slightly longer Tail shaft than the original MY shaft.
You could lengthen the Original Tail shaft but it can get costly (around 400 i have heard of.)
Or as another probably cheaper way to go, the L series 2 piece shaft can be used with a mount being made for the centre bearing as it is the correct length.

Wiring -
that picture pretty much covers it i think.
Image
(Courtesy of Subarino)

Linkages - the complete Lseries Linkages actually fit in place and can be mounted to a stud that is already potruding out of the MY body just behind the hole for gearstick and 4WD lever.

Clutch - the bigger (ie the 9inch not the 8 inch) MY pressure plate and Flywheel can be reused but the Lseries input shaft is a different spline count so a matching Clutch disc must be used (the L-series clutch disc should be fine for this).
the Lseries gearbox release bearing and clutch fork should be used (an MY release bearing is not big enough for the Input shaft on the Lseries gearbox that the bearing slides on. and the MY clutch fork is a smaller unit. it does still seem to fit but there is more leverage action with the Lseries fork.)



as with most conversions and upgrades to every one's car. there are different ways of doing it. this is not every way nor is it the only way to do it.

at this present time i cant think of what else will need doing to get a 5speed box working in an MY. but no doubt there may be more i have forgot.

i am also hoping this thread will catch on and have more useful information posted in it to help out others when and if they plan on doing this conversion.

(i have tried to keep my spelling in check aswell)

Cheers
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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Mon Feb 18, 2008 1:03 am

Theres some pretty good info here;
http://www.ausubaru.com/wiki/index.php? ... ANSMISSION

One thing to remember is the L series gearboxes come in two varieties with regards to the front driveshaft stub spline count. Some are 23 spline (the ones u need) and others (turbo and n/a MPFI) have 25 spline. I guess you'd either have to change the stub axels or your innet CV joints if you ended up with a 25 spline 5spd.

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coops
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Post by coops » Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:34 am

You can use the L series prop shaft. I made a mount for the centre bearing and have had no problems over the last 6 months its been in there.

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Subafury
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Post by Subafury » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:45 am

what about the bolt pattern to secure it onto the engine? or adaptor plate for those with ej's. is it the same?
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BrennyV
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Post by BrennyV » Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:32 am

bell housing is the same matt
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Post by dfoyl » Mon Feb 18, 2008 11:24 am

1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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Busdriver
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Post by Busdriver » Mon Feb 18, 2008 5:19 pm

Matatak, I think you deserve congratulations on your spelling this time, well done!
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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:34 pm

BrennyV wrote:bell housing is the same matt
haha didnt i tell u that BrennyV :p



thankyou to evry1 whos posted. when its all brought into the one thread its a damn lot easier to find for others and for next time.
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AlpineRaven
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Post by AlpineRaven » Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:38 pm

Make this sticky! or put this posting in strictly technical locked out area that mods can place?
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
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D3V1L
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Post by D3V1L » Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:44 pm

hahahahah hury up mat need car for weekend
no more subarus


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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:19 pm

Done forget to put a small spacer between the gearbox bell housing and the starter motor.

We found out the nasty way that using the L series clutch brings the clutch assembly a little bit closer to the starter motor than the original clutch setup.

A set of washers installed will move the starter motor backwards far enough to avoid contact.

If there's no spacer, there'll be some really nasty noises going on there... Just ask SuBaRiNo ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Wed Feb 20, 2008 8:12 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Done forget to put a small spacer between the gearbox bell housing and the starter motor.

We found out the nasty way that using the L series clutch brings the clutch assembly a little bit closer to the starter motor than the original clutch setup.

A set of washers installed will move the starter motor backwards far enough to avoid contact.

If there's no spacer, there'll be some really nasty noises going on there... Just ask SuBaRiNo ;)

Cheers

Bennie


no offence meant here....but i dont understand.
are you talking when you use an Lseries Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc and etc.

because all i plan on doing is putting an Lseries Clutch Disc in to be the correct spline to the Input Shaft. as MY and L's both have a 9 inch diameter clutch. (obviously some MY's do have a 8 ? inch or something clutch to.)
(using an Lseries clutch fork and Release Bearing to so theres no confusion :) )

theoretically nothing in my setup should change unless the Bell housing area on the 5 speed gearbox is different where the starter mounts up, which i didnt think was the case.


but any way that is still good information for some one doing it who is going to use an Lseries clutch setup. thanks for sharing :D
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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Thu Feb 21, 2008 7:57 pm

Bennie... seriously.... let him find out the way we did.

Dave
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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:32 am

SuBaRiNo wrote:Bennie... seriously.... let him find out the way we did.

Dave
why do u keep talking we.....have u built a car with bennie :???:

and dave, seriously. stop whoring my thread.
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Post by BrennyV » Fri Feb 22, 2008 9:21 am

Trouble in paradise! :O
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Post by steptoe » Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:14 pm

measure thickness of bell housing between where starter bolts to and you will see. I found a 4mm difference with one box 5 speed d/r and cut outr a 'gasket' of 4mm alloy sheet with a jigsaw and file....but tell us you've read the notes someone posted. I know i have added bits, I had the complete story but it was wiped when all things crashed a few years ago

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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:30 pm

steptoe wrote:measure thickness of bell housing between where starter bolts to and you will see. I found a 4mm difference with one box 5 speed d/r and cut outr a 'gasket' of 4mm alloy sheet with a jigsaw and file....but tell us you've read the notes someone posted. I know i have added bits, I had the complete story but it was wiped when all things crashed a few years ago
yeah i had a quick look at the starter thicknesses.. haven't been able to do much else yet.

and yeah i went searching round the forum but its hard to find it all when its scattered everywhere, so im hoping this will bring it all together.
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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Fri Feb 22, 2008 7:45 pm

Matt don't ask me a question (not related to the post) and tell me to not take it off topic in the same post. And coming from you saying to stop whoring a thread is the funniest thing I have heard all week. I doubt you have made one post in any thread all week that is on topic.

And YES Bennie and I have built a car tegether you retard... hence the use of the word WE. Turns out you don't know of everything that goes on Mat.

Dave
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:26 am

Matatak wrote:why do u keep talking we.....have u built a car with bennie :???:
I love this... I think its got something to do with dave being in WA and me being in Vic...

Matatak, i was in WA last year for a short time as you know... one of the things i learnt from dave is that subi grease goes well on party pies ;) :p ;)
SuBaRiNo wrote:Bennie... seriously.... let him find out the way we did.
I did explain it correctly didn't I? If not, when it grinds, space out the Starter motor...

And for the selector linkages, i've seen people use the L series gear selectors and interior pieces, looks like it was meant to be there... Just make sure you get the same colour interior bits as your MY (common sense i would think...).

Cheers

Bennie
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