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I just pulled this out of my crashed EJ20G rally Leone and I am feeling a little overwhelmed!!!

See - loom 1

But - once it is stripped down and looking preaty and after lots of dumb questions to you guys it is going into this...

See - Paintedshell

Already done is the full hydro setup, including two brake master cylinders so I can dial up F to R bias.

See - hydrobits

Should be fun when its done!

Sorry, I hav not figured out how to insert pics in the txt yet!?!?!

LOL, its the spaghetti monster

To insert images, simply click on the button and place the url to the picture in the box that appears


Looking good, and i have to admit, thats quite a wiring mess

Naa not more than you can chew at all! Looking great. I have never even heard of adjusting F to R brake bios other than in F1/V8 Supers cars...

Paint job looks terrific. Keep up the great job and I'm sure the forum will answer all of the questions you don't know.

Keep the pics rolling for the rest of us!

Wiring looks hard, and confusing.. And well I guess it sometimes is. But its relatively straight forward to chop down a loom to just engine-ecu wires.

I am starting from a good point - this loom worked in the old car!
However there is heaps I can prune off and plenty of dodgy connections to sort out, the prime ones are onto the little pins at the bottom of the Legacy fuse box, some have fallen out leaving no clue where they are suposed to go!!

Smokey - most fully fledged rally cars run a F/R brake bias, some go the easy way and use a brake proportioning valve, I have gone the whole hog and installed a brake balance bar which splits the pedal effort through a shaft in a spherical bearing to either left or right cylinder depending on where you adjust the bearing in relation to the centre (being the pedal shaft). They you just plumb MC to the frount and one to the rear.
Look up "Wilwood brake balance bar" and you should be able to find a pic or two!!

Hey, I love what you've done with your new shell. Looks tops.
That twin mc setup almost looks factory sitting in there too. I looked into it but the MY didn't have the room so I put it in the "do it later" basket.
Make sure you keep us up to date as it comes together.
What wheels are you running?

Just spent a couple of hours pruning all the terminal ends out of the loom where the leone/legacy parts meet. Also re-routed a few wires to tidy things up.

Need Help - anyone able to post a photo of the in-cabin fuse box cover for early legacys, I need to decypher what fuse is for what!

The two MC mount in the 4 original brake booster holes, just elongated them a bit, if I was doing it again I would put them abou 15mm closer together to make it better suited to the brake balance bar.
The car has a five stud conversion (well 90% of one!) so will run 15inch Leggy rims.

Cheers - ToyRX

That brake system looks pretty interesting! Where does the brake booster go? I guess it would be located further forwards that the firewall with a longer rod or something? Or are there more than one booster now?

maybe a remote booster like the VH40 ?

you wouldn't be the first person getting a bit overwhelmed with your project !!

I am wondering how i can remain in a subie while the GLTA donates to the 84 Brumby, which is using the 92 Brumby's engine, and get a new exhaust, and how to fit in a test of cruzing brumbys old EA82T before the GLTA runs out of rego and insurance, after I get GLTA up and running on LPG, all of which might involve 'test fit' of EA82T in 92 Brumby while its engine bay is empty

buy another cheap subie ?

No brake booster is used, the pivot is ~10mm higher on the clutch pedal to give more purchace, loosing the brake booster improves the feel.

ToyRX wrote:loosing the brake booster improves the feel.

Yeah, My brothers Fiat X1/9 doesn't have a booster and the brakes have a lot more feel and aren't that hard either.