Engineers

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:49 pm

Sorry for snapping at you.

I'll post them all in webshots and put the link in the other thread. (bratgeebahs brakes)

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:54 pm

That's cool. I know you've spent a lot of effort. Kind of seems like you've had to do too much.
Best bet is to use Imageshack http://www.imageshack.ws/, though others might recommend other sites.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:01 pm

I meant tempered. I get them mixed up.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:14 pm

No worries Nathan, I knew what you meant

Bratgeebah - I am loving your kit, sounds like you have really made an effort to make it all work and work well. I sincerely hope that you are rewarded well for your efforts in sales of your product. One wee thing I ask though (damn I hate the 'but' bit) you call it Billet cromo - it isn't...

A Billet is a big arse chunk of raw alloy that is to be fed into the extrusion machine. The bit that comes out the other end, a sized piece of alloy is no longer a billet, it is an extrusion, or barstock. Calling a product as 'machined from billet' is a wanker hotrodder parts thing.

I will go one to say though, my tech teacher who made race car parts in the 70's would buy chunks of aluminium alloy straight off the billet in order to make some parts as extrusions in Australia at the time were not available. Nowadays you can buy anything in any size. Capral has actual staff whose job it is to sell specific extrusions to suit a market!!

Oops, sorry about the rant, carry on!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:21 pm

:oops:I didn't know that. The hubs are made from 4140 crmo and the backing plate boss's are machined from an extrusion.

Here they are look in the brake conversion update album.
http://community.webshots.com/user/tmac746

Gee.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:29 pm

I'm actually getting some radius arms made up as we speak from 25mm 4140. I'll send you some pics when they're done Ben.

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:33 pm

Are they going to be adjustable?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:53 pm

No. Though if these work I could get some made up that are adjustable.

Looking at about a grand though.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:58 pm

Cripes!!! A grand!!!

I guess after that the next weakest link will fail...

I did some drawings recently of the new and improved radius rod mounts I want (think mega-lift patrol parts for style) but I am not sure how my little lathe will handle it - once I get all moved and set up I'll start to buy some larger alloy steel sections and do some experimenting...

I planned for 20mm EN26 for the radius rods, I think 25mm is possibly a little on the large side especially considering they will be stronger than the lower control arms, and everything else on the car...

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:19 pm

Have a look under the back of a wider body or later Camry, the toe-in is adjustable.
Those arms are approx the same size as the radius rods.
I was looking at cutting the rods in the middle & getting a thread machined into it to fit these parts on.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 7:32 pm

The reason I've gone for 25mm is because they need to be press-bent in two places, and as I've already broken 2 it's a risk I don't wanna take again!

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 9:29 pm

muddy the problem then is going to be that you will tear the trailing arm mounts out of the body. unless yours are reinforced?

couple of examples for you.

BYB BBQ justin had an off in his RX. Hes running XD falcon trailing arms, the arm survived but he mangled all the mouting points in the body.

DI trip curly's daughter drove his car into a tree. stock trailing arms > all that was damaged was the trailing arm.

my point is if your going to run heavier arms you better look at reinforcing the mount

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 9:48 pm

The radius arm mounts are mounted to the subframe (not lift blocks) and has all been reinforced with 5mm mild steel, which is in turn stitched to the body. I've done the same for all mounts at the rear.

mattw · Post by **mattw** » Fri Dec 16, 2005 10:25 am

wasn't the original post looking for auto certified Engineers? funny how we get off track once someone asks what the project is.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Dec 16, 2005 1:14 pm

mattims · Post by **mattims** » Fri Dec 16, 2005 2:27 pm

wouldnt it be better to build a radius rod that was actually designed to "break". If you had a sliding join in it for your adjustment that was just clamped in position it would give you the adjustment and then when you did hit something it would "break" but all you would need to do was slide it back to the correct position.

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 1:40 pm

Hehe, even I've gotten caught up. Maybe I should change the thread title to Engineering Issues...