The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Hi all,

I have an 86 Brumby in WA. The EA81 donk is about 60,000km old so pretty good (not worth replacing). The drivetrain is as loose as a hookers, er, you get the idea I'm sure.

Question.

- What would be involved in replacing the g-box (on the car), driveline and everything else from the Motor back. I'd like an AWD with dual range. A bigger set of wheels would be good. Along the lines of 14's of 15's. Nothing to high, just enough to stuff out the guards a bit.

- Can I keep the EA81 and join it up to a new box', and of course,

- How much.

I would do the steering at the same time too.

Down the track the motor will go too but for now I'm happy just to do the 'box etc. Steve's fast rising son's H6 is a rippa.

Cheers.

Check out the following thread, sounds like it could be a simple solution without replacing the gearbox. It is a common problem in the Brumby/MY.
AWD gearbox would be quite difficult (read expensive) to do, but is achieveable. It is slightly easier with an EJ motor.

showthread.php?t=6439&highlight=bushes

I spoke to Brumberty today.

Smooth talkin' fella that he is suggested I do a conversion. EJ22, Box (5 Speed, Dual Range), driveline, brakes, steering.............

If I can do it for about $2000 or so and get some help I'll do it.



Edit- After thinkin' about it a bit, I wonder how hard it would be to do the conversion and aim for a better road vehicle with Liberty off road capability. Any comments on the following would be appreciated;

1)Reduce weight in front of the front axle by putting the battery toward the back as well as as close to the floor as possible,
2)Replace 13's with 14's. 15's if the extra height will be negligible,
3)Move radiator back. Q-will an EJ22 have space to fit radiator above the motor or will the heat from the motor cook the water in the radiator. Another option could be between back of cab and rear wheel arch with vent cut in side (a-la Ferrari F350/MR2),
4)Move front wheels forward slightly, and rears back slightly
5)Remove extra weight such as sound proofing
6)Put spare wheel between rear axles on the bottom of the tray.

In short, I'd like to increase wheel base length, and distribute as much mass as possible between the wheels as low as possible.

Should I lay off the crack pipe for a while or is the above achiveable. I know 4) is a big mods ($$$) option but any (constructive) comments would be appreciated.

By the by, has anyone tried making fiberglass panels?

Cheers

Bombs away......

Front wheels forward is easy to do talk to Cameron about getting some of his adjustable Castor rods. Using these and L series parts I have pushed mine forward probably at least 150mm. i.e had to trim the guards to suit. To give you an rough ballpark at one stage i was running +2 degrees of Castor, (stock -2 degrees) +2 degrees camber (stock -2 degrees) and about 5mm toe out. Completely different car to drive, highly recommend it. Check out the following threads.
showthread.php?t=4369&highlight=camber
showthread.php?t=5977&page=3&highlight=camber

rears could be doable but i think the benefits would be negated by the cost.

150mm!?!?! was that just the L control arms or were you pushing them forward with the castor rods?

A bit of both....

Righto 4 X wilkySama.....

You Need....
- wrecked lib wagon or sedan with a dual range box and a nice EJ22
(or..Crusie the RSLC forums and find someone swapping it all out to convert to RS with WRX gear.
They see no value in it)

http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/index.php?

-all of it initially, it will be a hard, long weekend dismantling it but you will gain...
Donk, G box, diff, clutch, wiring loom, shifter and low range bits, ECU, heaps and heaps of very handy bolts and nuts and plastic clips and screws and other good stuff that you will need.
Sell whats left or take to the tip.

You need also....
- Radiator modified for larger hoses (possibly rebuilt)

-To make a gearbox crossmember, people have done this and we willl get you some photos and measurements....don't sweat it.

- Drive shaft needs shortening I think....4 speeds are long buggers, we will need to confirm this, I will have a crawl under with yee tape measure this evening.

- CV inners will be lib, outers will need to be L series, bit of a Mix n match, they will work in the right combo. I use RX turbo ones as I have done the L series hub swap described above.
Off the shelf for $330 a pair.

- run a new hard metal fuel line from fuel tank to engine room or use EFI hose (which is exxxy), the EFi system needs a return line.
- an EFI fuel pump, $90 from repco for a VL commonwhore one.

- brake upgrade, minimum install rear discs and you will get bigger rotors with the L series hub swap anyway.
- A bloody lift kit you low riding mexican!

Example, bloody auto though,

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Subaru-Liberty-s ... dZViewItem

PM Sent BRUMBERTY

Any thoughts on moving the radiator and battery or ripping out sound insulation?

Battery will fit under the tray between the back of the cab and the torsion bar. I have mounted me second battery there. Simple make up a bracket and bolt it through the tray.

Several people have re-positioned the radiator, a couple of people over the pacific on the USMB board have had success with running it above the engine.
(Chef Tim being one).

Rising Sun Steve ran one behind the cab with his original H6 Brumby, worth a call to find out how it went...destroyed all rear vision through the window though.

Matt is correct, there is a huge cavity under the tray...get some welding cable and run some as new connections.
I have my surge tank and fuel pumps mounted there.

What soundproofing?
Its a bloody milo can Wilk, you should be thinking of putting metal back on rather than taking it off.

Nothing like being 'on the scene'.

Besides, God made metal so Harley could make bikes. Thats the difference between a cleaver and scalpel.

You're wierd!
Call me

BRUMBERTY wrote:You're wierd!
Call me

thats even weirder LOL