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Well it would appear that the time come to actually fork out some of the hard earned stuff and start to purchase some parts for this RX. I am good at stripping it down however had better start to plan putting it back together.

Below is a list of parts that I think that I will require. If you can think of anything that I may have over looked and/or require and/or should be doing while all mechanical parts are out then please add it to the list. (Note its an RX with all the good bits, including EA82t, with AWD).

Ok, here we go…
- Front and rear crank seal.
- Oil pump kit.
- Oil pump gear and rotor set.
- Oil separator plate gasket.
- Water pump gasket.
- Cam Shaft Seal.
- Cam shaft ‘O’ ring.
- Water pump pipe ‘O’ ring.
- Sump plug washer (x5).
- Thermostat.
- Thermostat gasket.
- Spiggott bearing.
- Timing belt idler pulley bearing.
- Timing belts.
- Alternator and Air con belts.
- Top turbo hose.
- Bottom turbo hose.
- Thrust bearing.
- Clutch.
- Steering rack boots (a set).
- Inner CV boots (x2).
- Outer CV boots (x2).
- Wheel Bearings (x2).
- Radius Rod bush’s.
- Trailing arm bush’s.
- Diff bush.
- Rear ‘k’ bar or trailing arm bush’s.

Note - I am aware that there are no zort gaskets as I will need a new zort nor is there any new radiator hoses or anything as I will get a custom twin core made and then it should use original hoses. In addition to this I know what fluids/lubricants I am putting in so I have not listed these either.

Do you think that there are any little things I have missed out?
Would recommend I do anything else while I have the engine, gear box and drive train out?


Thanks.

Sump gasket and the goo associated to stick em all in place

the gasket for the PCV cover behind flywheel

When i did my rebuild, i got a kit of gaskets that had everything, right down to the gaskets for the throttle body components, EGR, AAV.... everything!

That ed be the way to go

why not a new water pump aswell. Doing the headgaskets?... intake manifold gaskets. Radiator, heater and turbo coolant hoses. Sway bar rubbers.... cant think of anything else at moment
timmo

If its gonna be all-out and like a brand new car heres some things from a quick brainstorm...

- Clutch/thrust bearing - may aswell get a full kit with a pressure plate too.
- Rear main oil seal.
- Rocker cover gaskets
- Heaps of hose clamps - get good quality ones from Coverntys Fasteners or similar supplier.
- Cable ties/wiring conduit - gotta be tidy.
- Wheel bearings - go x4, may aswell do the rears too.
- Strut top bearings.
- I guess you'll get an oil filter...
- Gearbox mounts - might be worth getting some new ones from Subaru, your existing rubber ones may be worn.
- Clutch cable, nice smooth new one might go down well.
- Gear shifter linkage bushes.
- Power steering tie rod ends.
- Ball joints.
- Front control arm bushes.
- Front / rear sway bar bushes.
- Brake pads.
- Possibly new brake rotors (they are surprisingly cheap, even the slotted ones) or skim your existing ones.
- Possibly get the brake calipers and master cylinder re-kitted.
- Rubber exhaust hangers - existing ones may be perished.
- Set of HID globes for the headlights.
- Tailshaft, check each uni joint for notchiness, get offending ones replaced.
- Steering knuckle, check each uni joint for notchiness, get offending ones replaced.
- Fuel hoses, replace all the ones near the fuel tank with good quality new ones. Existing ones are likely to be perished.

Something else you should do:

If your crankshaft has a groove in it from the old oil seal, get it machined out and use an oversized oil seal. I didn't do this on my rebuild and guess what??? i'm losing oil from the rear seal Its enough to piss me right off...

My 2c

Cheers

no need for machining? speedisleeve it Bennie, should be available from a bearing and seal shop, it's like shoving an aluminium can sleeve over the shaft and use std size seal. Some seals are better than others too

hmmm... can this be done if i remove the flywheel and the engine not split?

which seal would be best to use or would i be better off talking to the guy in the shop?

Cheers

um, not tried it yet, will depend on the collar that you get attached to it that you push it in place with. supposed to tear it off when finished fitting. the collar needs to clear the hole seal fits in. speedisleeve is the brand by raw hide ? Next crank seal i fit will be genuine...

on the ea81 u can un bolt the rear cover on the motor (not sure if its simalr on the ea82)

which allows u do do the rear crak seal

take the fuel rail off and to a professional to redo/renew the fuel injector sleeves - otherwise you may well regret yourself after all the work you ave put into it goes up in smoke.

fredsub wrote:take the fuel rail off and to a professional to redo/renew the fuel injector sleeves - otherwise you may well regret yourself after all the work you ave put into it goes up in smoke.

Thanks however can I ask why? What would be the issues Fred?

showthread.php?t=5241

need i say more?:(:(

Sorry to hear about your loss - i missed this earlier this year. However its not like this is a regular occurrence. Actually the attached di not tell me anything?!?!?! If you got under there and noticed the flames can you say definitively that this is where the fire started?