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URGENT!!!! Ea eng to EJ Gbox adaptor plates
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:08 pm
by ORX-18
As above guys, i need as much info as i can get about how it is done and where to get the nessesary parts from, done a Gbox in the lone.........again
cheers
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:16 pm
by Gannon
Why not put the ej internals into the l box?
We think its possiable... read
Full Time 4WD L Dual Range Box please
Plus you get a vis centre lsd!!!
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:52 pm
by AndrewT
Little more info pls...
What engine and gearbox does your car have right now?
Do you want it back on the road in the same configuration?
Otherwise what change do you want to make?
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:54 pm
by SuBaRiNo
Yeah looks as though your going for an expensive option here... don't forget u will have to change CV joints and all sorts of stuff if your changing the box.
Dave
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:15 pm
by Suby Wan Kenobi
As already said put the Ej internals into the L series housing. If you are going to use a single range EJ box you will need a single range L series casing. Using the EJ extension housing you will also need to shorten the tailshaft
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:08 am
by Outback bloke
What you are wanting to do hasn't been done yet. EA motor to EJ gearbox. I can sell you an adapter but you need to realize that you will have issues doing this. The 12mm of the adapter needs to be taken up some where in the mounting of either the motor or the box. Generally the box as you also have to custom make gearbox mounts and gear shift linkages.You will also have to space the fly wheel from the motor 12mm as well. As already said you will have to change your tail shaft length.
Putting EJ internals into your box isn't as straight forward as every one will have you think. You need to consider what gearing you have now. If it is an RX box you have blown then you will have 3.7 diff ratios. You can not get this ratio in any EJ box. This means you would have to change your rear diff as well. If it is an RX or MPFI box then you will have the big output shafts and don't need do any thing with your CV joints. If it isn't either of those boxes you will have to change them.
BTW, an EJ box will not be any better unless you go turbo EJ and then better again is TT or STi boxes.
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:14 pm
by dfoyl
>>If it is an RX or MPFI box then you will have the big output shafts
Quick question about the above statement - I bought an L-series box awhile back and I was told it has the big output shafts and won't work on a Brumby - correct ?
Dean.
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 2:38 pm
by damo666
Yes, it has been done!
Theres been a few RX Turbo rallycars here in Canberra that use the EJ20 gearbox behind the EA engine (sadly, one burnt to the ground a few years ago).
The burnt one used an alloy spacer plate much the same as Brett sells. I believe he used the RX driveshafts & had the flywheel spaced out correctly, but dont know a lot more about it.
The other car uses a 4.44 Forester box with matching diff, along with the EJ20 type flywheel that has been redrilled to suit the EA pattern, and has had a LOTS of modifications to the bellhousing/engine mounting points, so it bolts up without the use of a spacer plate.
(coincidentally, this one is also for sale at the moment, for about $12k).
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 3:22 pm
by Outback bloke
dfoyl wrote:>>If it is an RX or MPFI box then you will have the big output shafts
Quick question about the above statement - I bought an L-series box awhile back and I was told it has the big output shafts and won't work on a Brumby - correct ?
Dean.
That is right. If it has big outputs it won't fit standard Brumby shafts. What you can do though is get the correct size Liberty inner cup that will fit your current cv joints. That way you have Brumby size joints but with L series big output size cup.
ALL EJ outputs are the same size as L series (RX or MPFI) big output.
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 3:48 pm
by LTurbo
BYB-01 wrote:
ALL EJ outputs are the same size as L series (RX or MPFI) big output.
By big and small output shafts we are talking about 23 and 25 spline output? and all EJ outputs are the same as the 25 spline l-series outputs, correct? good info to know.
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 4:42 pm
by brumbyrunner
I suppose an EJ20T engine conversion has been considered?
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 5:41 pm
by stamp_licker
Be wary when asking for L series turbo shafts.The auto ones are 23 spline the manual ones are 25.This only applies for the inner cup as the the shaft and outer cup are the same manual to auto .Maybe worth a tech manual on shaft ,g/box inter change etc .This topic comes up a few times a year.
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 1:48 am
by El_Freddo
the_postie wrote:Be wary when asking for L series turbo shafts.The auto ones are 23 spline the manual ones are 25.This only applies for the inner cup as the the shaft and outer cup are the same manual to auto .Maybe worth a tech manual on shaft ,g/box inter change etc .This topic comes up a few times a year.
And i heard that the MPFI cups and cages are physically smaller than the turbo CV joints even though they both run the 25 splines. Gannon (suparoo) can tell a story about this one...
Cheers
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:03 pm
by QikRX
Might be time for a custom gear-set.
Send these guys the info for a price.
http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/html/contact.htm
This was the issue I had when I had the car, I just kept a stockpile of RX boxes in the garage for when they broke. Wasnt feasible to do a WRX swapover as they arent that strong anyway. You want something bulletproof that you can flog with confidence.
gearbox
Posted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 7:22 pm
by ORX-18
Yep, What he said lol.
im really gettin the poops with the thing atm, just when it goes in to get the roady done, they did a quick tune up on the dyno. Pop goes the g box and now its not RWable

the paint is all finished now and the new turbo is sitting in the garage, i just need to find some damn injectors. Qik, did u ever have a problem with the dissy spinning and what was the timing set at??
Cheers
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:19 am
by QikRX
Not sure of the degrees it used to run. But once it was set, the rest of the tuning was done via tha Haltech. Think it was +6 deg but am only guessing.
Never had a prob with the dizzy spinning, I replaced the cap & rotor button when I did the engine build & the F10x installation.
I was going to get an optical dizzy so I could get a fuel + ignition ECU but there was no point once the timing is set.