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MY to L Series Control arm Conversion , Q's
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 5:52 pm
by Matt
1. Will the L series Control arms bolt up to a MY/Brumby?
2. Are the radius rods different lengths?
3. Is the Castor Angle different?
4. How much longer is the L series strut to a MY Strut?
5. And final question is will am L series shaft (read not including CV joints) fit on to inners and outers CVs?
Incase you didn't guess what i want to do is bolt up L series control arms pushing out the camber to what i want, without CV pulling apart like they are now. Also without changing hubs and brakes, etc and with the added bonus of a wider track on the front.
Cheers
Matt
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:02 pm
by steve_rising_sun
Give me a call at work as I am a one finger typer
0883496960
Steve
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:06 pm
by Matt
Will try tomorrow if i get a chance.
Thanks
Matt
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:54 pm
by tim_81coupe
Can you post back Steve's answer Matt? I'm interested to know too.
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:59 pm
by Matt
Will do Tim. If it is positive, which i hope it is, i will do a pics of the conversion. I not good at explaining stuff, pics say a thousands word.....
Also i probably have another Brumby at least to do if it works, maybe more. It should make the Brumby a go kart on Steriods. I would be roughly looking at 2 degrees negative camber (wheels like this / \ instead of \ /)!!!!
Also with adjustment out to about 3.5 degrees allowign a slight suspension lift, maybe 25mm or so and still around 2 degrees negative camber......
I am looking forward to it..... Big smile across face and evil laugh....
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:20 pm
by MY_STI
The L series control arms will bolt up to the MY crossmember.
Either standard radius rod will be to short, I used ford XD/E/F radius rods.
They will need to be forged to get the flat end to bolt to the control arm.
A mate and I did a home job of this, vacuum cleaner in revese to get the pot belly roaring, Some large chunk of iron acting as an anvil, and some old oil to quench the rod in. Hardly scientific, but they haven't broken/bent yet.
I used the L series hubs/discs/calipers, L series CV's and L series struts. Made new lift blocks to take the L strut tops, althought an old set could be modified.
L series tie rods and tie rod ends were used on an MY rack, a little thread had to be trimmed off the tie rods 'cos they were a little long.
The wheel also sits forward a fair way, you may have to trim the front of the guard, depending on lift/tyres.
End result; better camber, easier steering, not as weak strut tops, slightly larger brakes, beefy adjustable raduis rods.
Can't say I have noticed a big difference in handling, went from kings and 2" lift to RX spings and 3" lift with no sway bar, so it still behaves like a boat, but it does seem 'better' in the steering.
Hope that makes sense!
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:45 pm
by Matt
All makes sense, you don't know if you can use MY disc cliper, etc with just longer shaft in the middle, i would prefer not to have to play with brakes, etc.
Thanks for your help
Matt
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:49 am
by BRUMBERTY

MY and L series CV outers will swap on one combination of spine counts.
Use either MY or L hubs and knuckles.
Ball joints are the same.
Tie rod end will need to be longer, speak to Bluesteel for the correct part number.
I have been using this set up for two and a half years, still on the same wheel bearings.
Tyres wear dead even.
This weekend I am swapping to Lseries brakes and knuckles for the better springs, bigger discs and RX sway bar
Makes the front wider than the rear though ......a very wide footprint that I corrected by more offset on the rear wheels.
I highly reccomend this conversion.
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:12 am
by steptoe
bluesteel told me tie rod ends 555 brand part number TE 3687R is the go in this conversion
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:31 am
by BRUMBERTY
Gracias Jono
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:36 pm
by Matt
Thanks Matt, everyone (including steve on the phone, Thanks again Mate) has confirmed what i already thought, all i need to get made is XD/XE/XF radius rods flatened out on the front to allow the hole to be drilled out and bolted to the L control arm. So in answer your to your question the list of stuff required is as follows Tim assuming you are using MY brakes/struts.
1. L Control Arms
2. MY CV joints mounted on L Shaft (or longer in my case because i might push the camber out with more with my camber kit, thus i need a longer shaft, which i can get, will post number/vehicle later)
3. Modified XD/XE/XF radius rods
And half a days work mounting it all up and one wheel alignment and hey presto when Go Kart or Steriods..... Evil Laugh
Matt out of interest do you know what Castor you have set?
Thanks, once again
Everyone
I will post pics when i get it done