Progress and queries on ej22 into L Sportswagon

robdddd · Post by **robdddd** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:05 pm

Made some progress over the weekend and managed to get theEJ22 fired up....only briefly though.

She was being reluctant to start and would tick over half a dozen times really slow and die. After numerous attempts (and recharging the battery) she started and was running smooth for about thirty seconds before returning to the tractor impersonation and stopping. Multiple more attempts she did the same again for about 10 seconds of smooth running before stopping. It got dark so came inside!

Any thoughts from anyone would be appreciated.

I am assuming it is a sensor issue somewhere however I am yet to wire up the LED indicator so can't even findout if there is a fault code pinpointing the problem.

Anything else i should look out for, particulalry as the motor had been sitting out of a car for a while.....like do the injectors dry up and clog???
thanks

rob

PS (can't wait to get it out on a trip with the Perth boys)

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:51 pm

It sounds to me more like a fuel supply related issue, although it's very hard to say without knowing more. I'd hook up that LED as soon as possible, fault codes should help a great deal in looking for the problem.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:34 pm

I'd agree probably something to do with fuel supply, if the motors been sitting for a while check the injectors. The EJ ECU's are amazing, they will still run the motor with virtually NO sensors hooked up.

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:49 pm

yes injectors clag up. If they have had fuel going stale behind them for a long period then they will run shitty for a bit. Could be that, could be spark plugs or maybe ignitor. Possibly even muck on the AFM sensor. The light will help if it is a fault issue but it sounds more like a tuning issue to me.

How have you run the loom? How was it fitted?

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:52 pm

My guess would be fuel as well, something more along the lines of a supply pressure issue ie: not enough pressure for the injectors to atomise the fuel.

Sounds like theres is enough pressure building up but not being maintained.

But that is just a guess.

Jordan.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 1:35 am

Yeah possible unable to maintain the pressure.
If you have a fuel pressure gauge stick it inline just before the fuel rails. Flick your ignition on so the pump primes the rails. The pressure should register on the gauge and stay there. If it drops slowly (or quickly) then your rails aren't holding the pressure for whatever reason.

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:07 pm

As said there is a lot of different things this could be.... a engine light will let u know if it's any of the inportant sensors.

Also have u attached all the air intake plumbing.... Without the hose from the Air Bypass Control correctly plumbed into the air intake after the Mass Air Flow Meter it will also do what u have described. If upi continue to have issues maybe i can pop over for a look.

Dave

robdddd · Post by **robdddd** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 12:43 am

Dave,

Thanks, I will take you up on that offer, i am away this comming weekend, what about the following one?

Tonight i had a look again at the Haynes manual to look how to read fault codes and realised the test mode read memory connector were un connected so plugged them together and turned it over....made no difference. I also noticed the fuel pump was now kicking in and out it was in sequence with a clicking sound under teh driverside inlet manifold (possibly the purge control solenoid?)...very strange as it then stopped.

figuring i have a fuel supply issue i disconnected the fuel supply line to see what flow was comming out.....turn on the ignittion and teh pump only runs for a second and stops, not what i was expecting, i thought it would run continuously (running a bosch 070 purchased "NEW" from a surge tank). Turning teh ignition on and off resulted in the same squirt of about 30ml of fuel. I am thinking about testing the pump by wiring it direct (realise there are dangers bypassing the relay if you are in an accident, i am only thinking of it to test?)

rob

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 9:16 am

By the sounds of things the pump is running correctly to me... it's meant to do what you are describing.... it prims the pump when u put ignition on and then it stops untill the car is turning over.

The test connectors must be dissconected... u only connect them to read the fault codes. What u have described sounds normal for whe the connectors are connected... except for the "not starting" part.

Some EJ22 ECU's have a sight hole in the side of them that has an LED in there for the engine codes... it may also spit out an additional code telling u if the ECU is from an Auto or Manual.

Try turning on your ignition with both the test connectors connected and see if u can read the flashes as per the manual.

You could hook up your fuel pump bypassing the ignition relay to test it but it sounds to me like it is working correctly. How long has the motor been sitting for?? Vidlers EJ25 was sitting for over a year and we found that 2 of his injectors had seized stopping it from starting. Come to think of it it was doing pretty much exactly what your describing... Are u able to keep the car running if u keep the revs up with the accelerator??

Dave

robdddd · Post by **robdddd** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:34 pm

thanks dave i will check those things out.

The car has only idled on two occassions and sounded good, didn't get a chance to pump the accelerator at those times.....other times it has made no difference, probably the opposite, when it is just cranking over and i pump the accelerator she stops. not sure how long it sat for, i bought it off Seagull just after easter and i think he picked it up from someone doing a turbo conversion but i don't really know the motors history.

other things i am going to check is that the original pump is filling the surge tank properly....also my fuel guage is dodgy and it would be really stupid if i had just run out of fuel!

I have a horrible cold and am at home but too sick to get out and take a look today.

Dave do you have any photos or info on how you have set up your speed sensor, ages ago i thought i read something about reed switches mounted on either teh front CV beside teh gearbox or on the rear driveshaft?

rob

P.S.

The afternoon sunshine was too tempting, dragged myself out of my sick bed to have a look......it was the original pump! Turn on the ignition and only a small dribble came out the hose and stopped, nothing came out as cranked over the engine either. I quickly swapped the hoses and connections around to bypass the old pump and surge tank so that the new bosch pump connects from the old fuel filter and into the main fuel supply line.......and she now runs! Packed everything away before the wife gets home and catches me! (she wouldn't understand)

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 8:31 pm

Some L series models have a speed signal wire behind the dash... there was talk about it on another post. I think if your car used to be EFI then it will have the wires.

If not i have bought a Cruise control kit and patched my speed sensor into the signal wire from that. This consists of a magnetic pick up and 2 magnets fastened to one of the CV joints. Works very well... however i do not see any benefits in hooking it up... I can take some picks if u want.

Are you going to be working on it this weekend??

Dave

robdddd · Post by **robdddd** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 8:48 pm

Dave some photos would be good, where did you get the cruise control kit from i like the sound of that.

I am away this weekend, hope to get a good go the following weekend.

I added a PS to my previous post, must have been while you were responding... I got her going.

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 8:53 pm

Sweet i will read that in a sec... Kit cost $109 at Kmart, that was on special though..I think the normal price is closer to $180. Don't be fooled it is a quality kit.... not Kmart brand.

Dave

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:09 pm

if your cars a manual you can get away with no speed sensor the ecu will just set itself to 1 operating range and give a fault code.i have the full explanation somewhere.subarino did you have to add a 5V resistor to aftermarket sensor to get it to work with the ecu?

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:31 pm

Nope... hooked it in and code is no longer there. No idea if it's working as it should.

I would be interested in the full explanation if u come across it... Maybe it's best to not have it hooked up at all than reading incorrectly.

Dave

Brad · Post by **Brad** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:16 pm

Hi Rob,

What you are describing I would put my money on the AFM. Have had quite a few with the exact symptoms and they have all been AFM's.