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Heya all,

should be recieving a lift kit from mechawagon sometime this week, just wanting to kno if there's anything i should kno before trying to install it on the WE.

Big Al

grease every thread. hi tensile bolts love to rust

also take care not to cross thread your new bolts, the extra length makes it pretty easy to do.

It's all very straight forward, but I will give you a few little tips:

*First thing you should do is make sure the rear brake lines are free
*Second thing you should do is give the two bolts securing the rear shocks to the body a very generous serve of WD40
*It's easier to get the Engine Crossmember to bolt back into place after unbolting the Radius Arms from the Lower Control Arms
*The fine 1.25mm pitch on some of the M12 bolts can be difficult to start. Take your time, make sure you do it right first go

Don't unbolt everything at once... can be a pain to line up everything at once to rebolt it in... i find that it is easier replacing the factory bolts for the larger lift kit bolts and then inserting the blocks after the running gear has lowered itself.

Dave

Teh Tech Manual is your Friend!
Daza.

daza wrote:Teh Tech Manual is your Friend!
Daza.

What the?? I didnt now that it still existed. Should there be some link somewhere on this site?
Thanks Daza

EDIT: found Stinkys link at the bottom of this Workshop sub group.

My tip for the lift kit installation, SAFETY FIRST.
Get a decent set of body stands and a quality trolley jack, not K-Mart specials either, cos the whole body will be suspended on these and when you may get a bit of movement when under there when trying to get some leverage etc.

Take note of all hoses, cables, wiring etc in the engine bay and underbody. They tend to get a bit tight when crossmember is lowered, generally ok with most lifts, but replace the ones that look under tension, like fuel hoses. Bottom Radiator hose will have to be shortened or changed with a more suitable one. Watch the radiator fan doesnt end up in the radiator.
Watch the gear linkages dont foul, may need modding to shift properly.
Brake lines need to be relievied of their retainers for more length.
Drop the exhaust as well, then see where it needs to be modded to refit properly when the kits in.
Dont over tighten the new lift bolts, you can crush the underbody chassis pressings real easy, just tight will be fine, not really really tight etc.

Good luck.

Yes safety first. I always use proper stands and don't get under the car when it's only suspended by a Jack.
Another trick I do just as an added protection is lay the wheels flat under the car while they are off. In the unlikely event of a stand failing then you still have the thickness of your wheels to save you if the car drops.
Probably wouldn't be too good for the wheel but personally I value life more!

yes never trust just JACK;)
I'll just add nickel anti-seize is the stuff to put on bolts, but I guess grease is next best..
BTW for removing bolts i think the penetrant brand is better than that wd40......

penetrene is the greatest "rusty seized up crap" solution ever

I have a pair of $2 mild steel long nose pliers that i have been using for fishing for about 5 years (salt water). Soak them in penetrene every now and then and they still havn't locked up

If you think Penetrene is good, you've never tried Chemsearch Yield. That stuff is amazing. It will loosen bolts that nothing else will.

I put nickel anti sieze on my turbo bolts when I fitted the TD05H and I can still easily remove them. I'll definitely be putting it on my lift kit when I install it.

Thanx for the replies fellas. got the kit today so will probably try to put it in this weekend if i get time. Good work finding the tech manual daza been lookin for it...

Big Al

Glad i could help!
Daza.