The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Hey Crew,

For those of you that do not know I am about to I am about to embark on the biggest mechanical tasks of my life thus far. What I am planning to do is convert a clean plan Jane L series Royal into a fire breathing RX gear (if an RX can be fire breathing).

Thus far you name it, it will need to be changed, so I am willing to draw on the boards wealth of knowledge/experience for any ideas and/or suggestion and/or little tricks on the best was to do some of this to make the job easier.

The initial thoughts thus far I am thinking that the;
- Petrol tank will need to be changed from the carb tank to a MPFI tank (due to the in-tank fuel pump).
- The dash/ecu/loom from the carb will be out and the RX gear in new shell.
- The interior change is all a given, blue seats, belts, sun visors, roof lining all out and RX gear in (just need the trick to getting the stupid c clip off the inside of the window winders).
- Old engine and cross member out and RX stuff in. Note the timing belts and clutch will be done while the engine is out, any thing else while she’s out?
- Gear box (poor single range) out and AWD box in, this includes drive train and LSD.
- While in the rear, trailing arms rear breaks and mustache bar all removed from RX and into new shell.
At this stage I can not think of anything else that I may require. Any thoughts?

Note to the WA crew I know that there are parts that have not been included in this list and they may be kept or sold, eg. 3” lift kit, spare drive shafts, 14” rims and steering racks/pumps etc. At this stage the focus of my attention is on the conversion itself and these issues of what to keep/sell will be resolved later. I will advise you all of these parts as things progress.

Thanks.

Something that may help you a bit, the EA82 turbo fuel pump is external, just like the carby one, but the tank contains an inbuilt surg-chamber. So while it's still a great idea to swap the tanks, it's not 100% necessary.

Mabey you should team up with Mattims and make a few changes to the timing. I seem to recall a certain "firebreathing" red Enduro....

Whats the difference in the Dashes?? That might be tricky to swap unless they are a straight plug in. If we are going to try and retro fit the RX dash in i would need to study the wiring pinouts and do some testing before u take anything out of the RX.

Or... u could pay an electrician... u may need to take out a home loan though.


Dave

Thanks for the tank info Muddy i cound not recall why that was, still if you have see my driving you would recomend the surge option

Dave Mine first 1 was MPFI to MPFI this is Carb to MPFI and I could be wrong however I think that there could be some differences. Regardless 1 dash is a shit blue and the other is all black, oh and then entire interior is black. Hence me contacting you about the dash work.

SuBaRiNo wrote:Whats the difference in the Dashes?? That might be tricky to swap unless they are a straight plug in. If we are going to try and retro fit the RX dash in i would need to study the wiring pinouts and do some testing before u take anything out of the RX.

Or... u could pay an electrician... u may need to take out a home loan though.

I agree - may God help you if its a non tacho dash Jaffa

If its a Royale, odds are it has the tacho dash. I think from our convos it does have one?

Non Tacho Dash -> Std Tacho or RX Dash is a nightmare
Std Tacho Dash -> RX Dash isn't a nightmare

The Full Time dash centre (on its way, honest!!!) should just plug straight in to a tacho dash loom.

Fang SHUT the F^%%^#$^&%#*^#*&%^@# Up mate… Dave said its cool so its cool ok LOL nar it’s a tacko to tacko, well at least the last time I looked it was, as yes non tack to tack is just wrong. I had better have 1 last look though

Hey that’s good news. I trust you about the face and if its on its way then its on its way. Actually I have family flying over in about 4 weeks so it will probably arrive then. Thanks for that things are slowly coming together and I have not laid a spanner on her yet, tank could be a bugger though

I was also wondering about the possibility of changing the AFM to a hot wire type? i have a spare 1 at home is this possible? i have heard that they are the hot wire is the better AFM option?

the window winder handle clip is piss easy to remove with a tool from auto pro stores at about $7 or $10 for same thing at supercrap

On L series insert it between handle and its plastic washer and hold in place while other hand turns window winder round and round, one way or the other !

I just use a piece of tie wire bent into a small hook, seems to work ok for me.

Jaffa, PM sent, and I will ring you tomorrow.
Roger

Jaffa wrote:Fang SHUT the F^%%^#$^&%#*^#*&%^@# Up mate… Dave said its cool so its cool ok LOL nar it’s a tacko to tacko, well at least the last time I looked it was, as yes non tack to tack is just wrong. I had better have 1 last look though

Hey that’s good news. I trust you about the face and if its on its way then its on its way. Actually I have family flying over in about 4 weeks so it will probably arrive then. Thanks for that things are slowly coming together and I have not laid a spanner on her yet, tank could be a bugger though

LOL - sowwy mate

Yes - I have made contact with the "courier" and your parts should be collected "shortly" :P

No worries Fang - thanks.

Rog got ya PM.

Subarino i have not heard back from you lol

Anyone on the AFM?

Heard back from me about your message begging me to help with the wiring??... it goes without saying... of course i will help. You gonna have to get good at something though so u can return the favour. Not sure what cos i don't belive i have any mental issues that need addressing.

Go study spray painting at night school or something... i don't have a spray painter. LOL

Dave

SuBaRiNo wrote:Go study spray painting at night school or something... i don't have a spray painter. LOL Dave

i used to work in a mech shop and have been able to swing paint gear for years. Just do not have access to spray boots over here (well without hiring 1 that is), oh and i would like a bigger compressor then the lil 1 i have as you get a better finish. If i get near my spare bonnet at home when doing this conversion i will show you some of my work.

Note its all good the tank is an RX tank.

What are the model years of the cars, this will affect the compatability of the wiring. eg. If one is an 85-86 model and the other is a 87-94, you may have issues with getting the plugs to match up.

If the RX loom is of 85-86, it will have a flapper style afm and wont be compatable with the later hotwire style afm's. They have a different output signal.

Gannon

Bugger, Thanks Gannon.

From memory the RX is 87 (or is that 86!?! hmmm, its at home and i am in the office) the Royle is 88. The AFM is the flap 1 however given I had a hotwire type spare, and I believe that they are the better AFM, I would have considered changing if it was possible.

In addition to this I also have my RX dash, ecu, loom sitting in Brisbane which was running the hot wire type AFM so if needed I can get it freighted over and then use it and then change the AFM over couldn’t I?

87 was a grey area.
Mainly for the 1st half of the year, most came with the earlier efi system, aka the 85-86 models, these are distinguished by the 3 plug ECU (which provided fuel maps only), a Flapper AFM, and the Vac /Mech Disty.

Basically from mid 87 on to 94, there was a different and better system, this is distinguished by a 4 plug ECU (which has maps for both fuel and spark), the Hotwire style AFM, and an Optical Disty

These are 2 different systems and unfortunately the air flow meters are not interchangable.

I would recomend using the latter loom (87.5 +) if you can, it will probably be easier to convert to your royale.

In saying that, there is no reason not to use the 85-86 one if it is easily avaliable.

Where are you RX parts coming from, a complete donor car, or are you buying the parts individually?


Gannon