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Body/chassy repair - where to get steel?

Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 9:09 am
by Smokey
Need to replace some steel underbody where my lift blocks have been ripped out. Picked up a few off cuts of 10mm steel to put on the inside floor at the top of the lift block bolts. But will need to get some steel to replace in the rail underneath the car, where the cross member origionaly bolts into and now the liftblocks bolt into.

So my question is what should I use here? Is it a special metal or somthing? I really don't know mych about it. Where should I go to find some and could it be cut sufficiently with an angle grinder, and drilled using a normal 500W corded hand drill?

I supose fixing these things is illegal too... so what do I say to the shop where Im getting it, that I'm repairing a trailer and just need a few pieces....lol

Smokey

Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:48 pm
by MUDRAT
No no it's not illegal or unroadworthy at all. I've seen several written-off cars re-registered legitimately - nothing's impossible!

I used 5mm steel plate cut to size and then MIG welded to the sub-frame. I strongly recommend you get a panel-beater to do the work so you can keep a good wheel alignment.

Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:35 pm
by stamp_licker
$4 of scrap 3mm fixed 6 inches a side of my sub frame and i got about 600mm left over.shaped and welded ,riveted in place then down to the exhaust shop tp mig it bit of grinding and paint and alls good.

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:26 am
by fredsub
best place to gets bits of steel is a industrial salvage yard - have a beaut one locally :P
other suggestions is metal fabricators for offcuts/scraps etc - lookup yellowpages
of course steel merchants eg Metaland etc, but only if your prepared to buy at the given lengths.
I'v seen RHS at Bunnings...but the price

I think you need a selection of ~0.8-1mm plate for the floor, 2-3mm plate for the bolt section. My preferred is galvanized sheet.

Tip for bending sheet - the edge along the bend, first use a centre punch to tap a line of punches along line of the bend, its possible to do curved lines also with a few angled cuts. Its also a whole lot easier if you have a bench vice.
Re drilling, trouble with hand drills is it can kick back at you when drilling thick steel,possibly breaking drill bit, for large holes do a pilot hole first with a smaller drill.

don't know where you got the idea that fixing this is illegal ? .
Well I hope you haven't got a yellow sticker - that would make it harder but not impossible.
BTW I think in NSW you can be up to 3months late with paying the rego ?- just don't be caught driving it.

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 5:16 pm
by Smokey
Thanks Guys with the detailed adice.

I called every Sheet Metal wshop in my area and work area to get some off cuts, everysingle on of them, some 20 or so were too busy to care or didn't have anything small enough and wouldn't give out scrap.

I did get a few 10mm scrap blocks of black steel froma local metal fabricator/welding shop. May use the inside on the floor to anchor down the top of the bolts if I decide to run them right through the floor. Ths if I can drill through them. Good idea Fred re pilot hole. Might have to buy a bit big enough for the bolt too. Picked up an angle grinder, cutting and grinding disks last night. My mate is a pannel beater so should be able to learn a few tricks from him tommorow. He also found the material were going to need so thats solved....phew.

Fred, its rego'd for another 12 months, managed to call in a few favours. I'm not driving it anyway, not till its fixed. Just wanted it rego'd so I woudn't need a Blue slip, but as u say its good for three months past rego anyway before a blue slip is required.

Hired the Mig and gear so were all go now. Will let u all know how I go.

Smokey.

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 7:33 pm
by MUDRAT
Good luck mate, I've been in your shoes there so I'll be thinking of you.