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I have an MY wagon, and my standard 4spd is really loose and stupid, so I was wondering how much f**king around would be necessary to bust an L-series 5 speed manual gearbox into my MY? or is it basically "BOLT OFF OLD, BOLT ON NEW"? It's probably my linkages, but 5spd would be better nehow right?

cheers,

Jason.

Is the car lifted? If it is, it's relatively easy. If it isn't things get difficult.

Basic points are that you'll need to either elongate the tailshaft or use an L series one. To do that you'll have to drill holes in the floor to accomodate the centre bearing. You'll also need to run the L series flywheel and clutch, or get a Gemini clutch plate to go with the EA81 flywheel and pressure plate.

RUBASU used to have a good write up on the WWW somewhere, lost the link for now...

One of the most common and most rewarding conversions.

It's not quite bolt on and bolt off but is fairly straight foward.

You will need the following from the donor vehicle:
* Centre console
* Gearbox, mounts and cross member+
* tailshaft
* Diff+
* Flywheel+, clutch and pressure plate
* Clutch pedal and cable
* As much gearbox wiring loom as you can get
(I think thats it, it's been a while)

+ these things are just in case, depending on the exact configuration of your MY, it's easier just to grab them while you're there.

Firstly remove the centre console, the linkages, the tailshaft from the diff, then the gearbox (when you do this the gearbox will dump it's oil if you haven't drained it already), disconnect the clutch cable, starter motor

The next part depends on if you have an engine hoist or not, without hoist:
Unbolt the gearbox crossmember and mounts, get some supports under the gearbox, unbolt it from the engine, 2 bolts at the top, 1 through the starter, 2 studs on the bottom, now wiggle the gearbox off the engine, chances of being squished are reduced if you have 2 people supporting and wiggling the gearbox, it's reasonably heavy.

With hoist:
The easiest way is to pull the hole engine and gearbox as 1 piece then work with it on the ground, remove the wiring harness (usually 1 x 4 wire plug), earthing strap, radiator hoses, accel and choke cable, spare tire bracket, undo engine mounts from the crossmember, attach hoist, take up the slack, unbolt gearbox crossmember and mounts, remove the engine and gearbox, seperate the engine and gearbox.

Common:
Remove the pressure plate and check the size of the clutch, if it's an 8 inch clutch you need to fit the L series flywheel, it can take a little modification of the bell housing for it to fit, if you're clutch is 9 inch then just fit the L series clutch and pressure plate and you're set.

Bolt the MY gearbox mounts to the MY Gearbox crossmember and line it up on the L series gearbox, you need to mark and elongate the mounts holes to suit the L box.

Now re-assemble pretty much the reverse of the above.

If you used the MY flywheel you need to space the starter motor about 3mm off the gearbox, I used a couple of meaty spring washers, worked perfectly for more than 2 years till I retired the car.

You need to mount the centre bearing of the L tailshaft in the transmission tunnel.

Clutch cable and pedal:
The clutch pedal is on a seperate shaft to the rest of the pedals, just remove the circlip on the end, slip the old pedal off and new pedal on, it does take a little creativity to mount the clutch cable on this end.

Electrical:
By this time you have probably notice that the plugs on each gearbox are different presenting us with a square peg round hole style dilema.

Also the new gearbox has 3 switch's where as the connector only has provisions for 2 switch's.

The switch's are:
Reverse switch:
closest to the front on the same side as the starter motor.

4WD or Hi Range 4WD switch:
Highest switch on the oposite side as the reverse switch.

Lo Range 4WD switch:
closest switch to the back of the gearbox.

Some gearbox's have more or less switch's than this, I haven't personnaly seen one, but have been told that:

* Some have only 2 switch's, one for 4WD, one for reverse, thats it.
* EFI and turbo vehicles have a total of 4 switch's the extra one is a neutral switch.


In my opinion the best way to deal with this is to use the wiring loom you cut off the L-series (you did get that didn't you?) and use it to make an adaptor, connect some spade terminals to the cut end of it and they will insert into the wiring loom already on your car. This way your not modifying your car or your new gearbox.

The switchs to connect are the reverse and Hi Range 4WD switch's as the Hi Range switch will always be on no matter which 4WD mode you are in. The dash does have the lights and connections for the Lo Range switch but you would have to run custom wiring from the dash through the firewall to the gearbox, personally I don't think it's worth the effort.

I think thats got most things covered, good luck.

Jordan.

PS: Bloody hell I haven't written a novel like that in a while.

Go Baron!!!

We need that tech manual back! This thread should be made sticky!

tim_81coupe wrote:We need that tech manual back!

That was my first thought, my 2nd was now is as good a time as any to start on it

Jordan.

You just made it sounds sooo bloody hard.... i reocn i could do a full explaination for a complete EJ conversion with L box in less space. LOL

Im not willing to back this comment up before anyone asks.

Dave

Back on topic... i think this picture that i made may help with the wiring.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/134 ... 5049ntcJbF

Dave

:P I wasn't trying to make it sound hard just trying to be as in depth as possible to answer any questions before they came up.

I remember researching in preperation for my conversion, read at least 4 seperate guides and was still vague on a lit of areas.

When I dismantle my MY wagon I can add pics, don't hold your breath for them though.

Thanks for the pic Dave, I couldn't remember where I saw it.

Jordan.

Putting my hand up as someone who did one April last year.

91 L series 5 speed d/r into non lifted 84 model Brumby 3.7:1 ratio diff

used L wagon tailshaft with centre piece fixed to under side floor with flat bar - rivets and bolts hold reinforce plate on topside

8 inch EA81 flywheel remained while using R7926W clutch plate (fits all petrol 1.6l Gemmys) 40 to 60 bucks for this !

There is a threaded boss casting on the gearbox that I wish I noticed (after being told about it here mind you) before it banged into the tunnel.


Find it and remove it befor sticking box in . It is at the right hand side rear near shifter and does nothing - find it and cut it off

Holler if you got more ??

I used standard MY clutch pedal , L series cable adapted to it .

L series throwout is also used

is the conversion worth the effort? does it add any to my acceleration characteristics? will it last?

It won't really change the acceleration or the top speed, it just gives you an extra cog in between 3rd and 4th..
5th in an L series box feels the same as 4th in an MY box.

I think its woirth doing.

Dave

I found it worth doing - No more Mr Floppy. & depending on the cog ratios you get (and life is like a box of chocolates), you do get a different box from the four speed. I actually was not pleased at first.
First gear did not stretch out to what it used to, second lost its kick arse smart arse support for first, but when you learn to get it into 3rd then floor it - that's better, into 4th and yee hah another gear ?! just drops top revs a little bit. 3 and 4 are good highway hillclimbing gears

would not think twice about converting for my daily driver

do it I say

Yeah was definitely the most worth while modification I made to my white wagon, 2 thumbs up here

Jordan.