EA81 with SPFI manifold to carbie advice

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 3:04 pm

here's the write up on the whole manifold. http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/chengine6.htm

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 3:32 pm

Oh it was a SPFI manifold, no square coolant hole.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 4:14 pm

A thought went through my mind....(its ok Steptoe...you arent the only one) that with a carbie like the 38/38 one could with work, mount it so the throats are in parallel to the manifold, create a barrier and then have one throat for each bank of cylinders. twin carbs on a single carb unit???

My head hurts...what do you take for that pain Jonno?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 5:57 pm

look under the bonnet of another Subaru

Oh, yeah, those holes with coolant passages. I tapped mine out and plugged 'em with ?? M8 1.25 I think, some threebond for good measure

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:18 pm

I eagerly looked under Scott Bennie's hood of Redback last night and all I saw were hoses and a blue thing resembling an air cleaner lol. So are we saying the coolant running on the bottom of the mnifold can be blocked off and is of no use?

I'll leave mine as it is. Seems like a trap for young inexperienced players....well inexperienced anyway lol

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 7:47 am

leave yours as is and it will probably leak between the manifold and your wedged adaptor. Leak inside and you will get steam and likely not notice until too late, or dribble to the outside world where you'll smell steaming coolant

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:46 pm

Big news. Tweety's engine blew up yesterday. It ran like a pig around Melbourne then I set sail for home 2 hours away. 30 mins from home and it created what felt like a bad miss, vibrating a little also. Pouring rain and dark I pressed on.

Got home- just. kept engine going to see the exhaust and it was black as black can be. So I suspected fuel issues likely with the SPFI system.

This morning I looked again- no oil in the sump, doesnt register at all on the dip stick. I changed the oil 4 weeks ago, topped up to little over full. There were no oil leaks.

Took the throttle body off. Oil at the bottom of the carbie and inside manifold.

Immediately decided on one thing- a total rebuild and as I'm now retired, I will be doing this myself....along with some help from subie friends. It will be done depending totally on finances available. So it could go weeks with no progress. I'll start a new thread in rebuild section. I will have a couple of questions there today even. Even if the engine turns out a minor problem it will be rebuilt.

oh yeh, I purchased the weber 38/38.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:07 pm

Big news. Tweety's engine blew up yesterday. It ran like a pig around Melbourne then I set sail for home 2 hours away. 30 mins from home and it created what felt like a bad miss, vibrating a little also. Pouring rain and dark I pressed on.

Got home- just. kept engine going to see the exhaust and it was black as black can be. So I suspected fuel issues likely with the SPFI system.

This morning I looked again- no oil in the sump, doesnt register at all on the dip stick. I changed the oil 4 weeks ago, topped up to little over full. There were no oil leaks.

Took the throttle body off. Oil at the bottom of the carbie and inside manifold.

Immediately decided on one thing- a total rebuild and as I'm now retired, I will be doing this myself....along with some help from subie friends. It will be done depending totally on finances available. So it could go weeks with no progress. I'll start a new thread in rebuild section. I will have a couple of questions there today even. Even if the engine turns out a minor problem it will be rebuilt.

oh yeh, I purchased the weber 38/38.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:13 am

Are you sure it's an empty sump? There's quite a bit of oil in the sump, even when it's just below the dip stick.

It'd be good if you could get a compression test on each pot. If you wanted to start pulling it out we can floor test it next time I'm up your way, I'll bring a starter and a gearbox case to mount it on - oh, and flywheel!

If you want a block to start the build let me know

All the best in the build (and the next chapter!)

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:11 am

You got me thinking Scott at 2am.

Went out to the shed, checked dip stick- bone dry- serious. Then drained the sump- about one litre there. no more. A puzzle. I do know the last time level checked was about 200 kms ago and it was full.

Checked compression buy hand turning...seems good doesnt look like any one pot is less than normal. Regardless am still keen now to rebuild. got the urge and enthusiasm. my block has never been rebored. and as it turns and has compression maybe no serious damage. thanks for the offer but in a few days my engine should be out and heads off.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:15 am

Only a liter? I cant see how the engine would have sucked up that much oil thru the PCV system, so my next guess would be that your crank case pressurised and you burnt all that oil.

No oil light on the dash?

Until you get going on your new motor I would just put some fresh oil in it, return the PCV lines all to stock, replace the PCV valve or at least clean it and then test it.

A simple way to know if your PCV is working is to remove the oil cap while the engine is running and cover it with a piece of cardboard. It probably wont work at idle rpm because it will pulse at too lower frequency, but if you hold it up at 1500 to 2000rpm the piece of cardboard should be sucked down hard against the filler tube.If it just blows it off chances are your rings are shot or the pcv system is blocked.

Does the crank case inlet on one of the rocker covers go before or after the MAF sensor? Id also recommend doing a proper compression test. Your not going to feel the difference between 80psi and 180psi by turning the motor over by hand.

Regards

Doug

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:45 pm

yep, one litre. Too late now Doug with all due respect and appreciation- manifold is off, SPFI system is off. long engine is bare.

Truth is for some time I've been toying with the new engine concept. Retirement last year changed a lot of things. Now I want an engine from scratch that I know is A1.

The air recirculating system was stock. air from air filter system goes to thermostat side rocker cover. Alternator side rocker cover exits to fitting that has two exits, one to the PCV(new) (large hose) and smaller one up to intake. My guess is we will know more when the engine is disassembled.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 3:41 pm

fully emptied sump. under 2 litres were left. more than I thought.

Definitely a oil blow by issue/ring?. will be checking things as I go thru the parts

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 5:33 pm

Fuji, could you imagine the general public being allowed dipsticks that go to the very bottom of the sump ? I think the idea of oil disappearing off the dip stick once a litre has been lost can cause some panic to then top up, but if it went to the bottom Joe Public would think it will last 'til next service !!

The full mark on EA81 dipstick is about right on level with sump gasket.

Tony does not muck about does he ?? I bet next thing he will be asking for is cam specs
The last detail I have for my guy whose done cams for me last thirty years is
Watson Racing Cams
3/10 ERN HARLEY DRIVE
Burleigh Gardens Industrial Estate
Burleigh Heads QLD 4220
ph 07 5593 7722
fx 07 5593 7754

Oh, now I read the clearances !! For my 20/60 which may still be good on yer light trike, just was too much for my trailer load until I fitted EA82 Y pipe with cat converter.

inlet 0.006"
ex 0.008"

If I was to do again for a working ute i'd go the 16/56
I think he still coats the cam in Lubrite to aid run in lubrication. I just recently found my 16/56 cam I sent with my other cam to be done as 20/60. Got the old 16/56 done in Luberite for storing.
As for costs, best ask for prices on machining where ever.
Cost me a grand in 2000 and a grand in 2008 to do total EA81 - crank only needed linishing both times.

My aftermarket pistons for EA82T has the round oil holes that Ivan from USMB says the EJ piston is good for the EA81 and 82 instead of the factory slots. Maybe all aftermarket pistons now have round holes, for EA and EJ.
Apparently EA rods just need to be resized to suit the EJ pistons gudgeon pin - you'd get new little ends anyway no matter which way you go.

Try Fabre 02 97581966 for engine stuff ??

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:13 pm

you must be psychic Jonno. yeh, was hanging for most of that information. yeh 16/56 sounds the go me thinks. what revs does this cam fire at best? I'm getting older and we tow a 300kgms camper now. need something that is ideal for cruising at 3000 rpm which is 100 kph.

eg be good if the cam came on song at 2500 rpm. low down stuff. with the 38/38 it would be real good.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:05 pm

Never really remembered the revs info from my stand in tacho but was god at hauling 400kg load up hills as same as no load, 4th out of 5 gears 80 kph.
You are not as heavy as me so would think maybe get away with 20/60 but a lot can depend on the interference value of your exhaust. Still reckon 16/56 would be the go, .235" lift solids.

If you get to talk to Ian Watson tell him what Tweety is, that he is, she is coupled to an auto, tyre size and you seem to be attracted to hills, i am sure he is gonna say 16/56

I learnt my lesson onsisting on the 20/60 and saved my tail with th catted EA82 Y pipe and love it for towing now - 300kg empty trailer.

Too much work to swap cams

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:07 pm

? Haven't you finished this project yet ?
Oh, they have a PO box to send stuff to, get that off him or website ?

http://www.watsonracingengineering.com/ is not them !

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:29 pm

steptoe wrote:? Haven't you finished this project yet ?

GOLD mate! I thought the same too. Fb reports that the EA81 is already out. Heads "will be off next week" - I think he's really slowing down in his old age

I reckon Tony could have the block split by next week, parts off to the relevant places the week after, pick up a week or two later after that, engine back together the week after that, then back in and off for the run-in period.

6 weeks should see it done

What do you think Tony?

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:01 pm

I say go the genuine head gaskets too...I'm a convert

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:29 pm

Block was split Saturday, bare block ready for machining. Heads dismantled.

Just jokin'

Spent weekend at Wagga on the banks of the Murrimbidgee river. A trike AGM took place there.

While I was away a bolt of lightning struck me. While its all out I think it is worthwhile dropping the auto and transaxle.
The VW 3 speed auto is a robust and basic unit. But they are becoming rare. Reckon there are more VW trikes on the road with that auto now than VW type 3 hatch's, sedans and station wagons left with the auto that are on the road. Trike manufacturers have snapped up all of them. I know where there is one- in Taree. In a paddock and in a car left there. The guy that serviced it all its life lives in the next house.

Rather than go down that path with restricted funds, better at this point to take it out, get it inspected and re-install. The auto has one issue- it hold first until the engine over revs with more than average throttle. dont know what the reason is but its internal as the two adjustments , the modulator and a bolt on top maybe for bands. It also leaks oil. And the torque converter. Dont know anything about them. dont know if it is worth taking that to an expert also.

At any rate as its working well otherwise it shouldnt be expensive.

The axle housing (quite a piece of work) is fine. just seals each side at the CV's need replacing.

And I'll paint the lot.

Auto- pink, axle lime. kidding. auto cream, axle housing red. engine block black gloss, heads stock, spfi manifold polished alloy.

So the engine stuff will be delayed a little. Will update. any advice gratefully recieved.