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Long range/auxiliary tank for brumby

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:14 am
by subybrumby
Has anybody gone this way or researched having an auxiliary or replacement fuel tank for a brumby. I look like being off to Darwin and back through the top of outback Queensland in July next year. Longer legs will help with some of those long hauls and there seems to be a good space under the tray right behind the cab. The car has a 3inch lift. Any input thanx???

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 8:35 am
by spike
im not a brumby guy so dont know BUT im sure its possible, infact i know its possible.

is the car petrol only?? Another gas tank would do the job

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:39 pm
by subybrumby
Yes, just petrol...have already contacted a mate who is highly experienced in alloy welding and fabrication..He's right to go and is just waiting on plans from me. ..would rather keep it simply with the auxiliary filling off the main filler hose and equalising with the main tank...saves mucking about with relays and extra fuel gauges..switching etc.

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:04 pm
by brumbyrunner
Seen a few done over the years but never wanted to spend the coin myself. My prefered option is to put a matching "lift" in the original tank (in your case 3") and keep everything else factory (mounts, gauge, filler, outlets etc). I've seen tanks cut just below the seam and a band welded in, definately a job for someone who knows what they're doing though. Plenty of peolple get hurt and killed welding fuel tanks.

Brumbys definately need a bigger tank for touring and that might only gain you 20 litres or so. The space behind the rear firewall is a great spot for an auxillary tank, good for weight distribution and an easy rectangle shape to fill. If you keep the top of both tanks the same height and the bottom of the sub tank slightly higher, you should have no problems and the gauge should be acurate.

Many years ago ARM built a metalic blue sports with EJ22/constant 4wd and it had dual tanks with dual fillers. Nice professional job it was too.

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 4:12 pm
by spike
best place would probably be on the opposite side of the original

Never weld a tank, dads done it once and he knew how dangerous it is washed it 10 times and let it air for over a month.
Whats the shape and placment of the orignial?
Maybe another in the other guard if thats where theyy live?

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 6:07 pm
by subybrumby
The original tank has a recess on the bottom that allows the diff to move up and down so a bit reluctant to tamper with that. I'll be going for a straight rectangular box under the floor behind the cab like brumbyrunner says and should be looking at about ahhh around 70litres???? could be possible and feeds itself into the main tank. When gauge is empty on main tank, its all gone.

Similar looks to this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BLACK-RCI-FLAT-A ... 3cb2ca2a51

Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:14 pm
by phillatdarwin
if not steam for 2 hours do not weld .. work on lots and a tester is a goood thing so u not go with the tank

Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:30 pm
by steptoe
if you can find a cheap LPG cylinder that is either past its ten years and no one wants to renew it for the test fee or an 18kg cylnder and convert it to hold petrol. Most already have some sort of bracketry . Cut a fill tube size hole, hook up breathers in tandem to existing petrol tank. You could keep the contents gauge in it and bung up the other fittings. Food for thought !

I reckon my Brum feels very well balanced with my 80 litre of LPG which weighs about a third less than 80 litre of petrol - sitting at the front of the tray.

Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:42 pm
by Silverbullet
phillatdarwin wrote:if not steam for 2 hours do not weld .. work on lots and a tester is a goood thing so u not go with the tank
If you want to be even safer, after you've washed out the tank however many times, you can fill it with an inert gas (like plain old Argon) but the tank would need to be relatively sealed.

Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:26 pm
by RSR 555
Trev.. from memory there is a spot underneath just foward of the fuel tank where you could make 2 smaller tanks either side of the tailshaft. If I was at home I'd stuck my head under and give a better description :( it's just where the floorplan for the foot wells finishes and go up to to the base of the traybed. I was thinking of making 2 small water tanks but if you make some good stainless steel ones, I might be in for a couple ;)

Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 5:50 am
by Captain Obvious
what route are you planning on taking to darwin, you will be surprised there is more fuel out that way then you think!! which means only really needing to carry a couple of jerry cans!!

bryan

Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:15 pm
by subybrumby
Yes Paul, know what you mean, there is a fair bit of space forward of the standard tank, but still going for the space behind the cab and under the rear tray, ???maybe 75litres there or more. And re fuel stops enroute to Darwin. yes probably are but also hoping to fill where it may be cheaper also along the way.

Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:24 pm
by RSR 555
Pics too please Trev.. I'll be watching with intensity :)

Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:08 pm
by subybrumby
No worries...Fabricator mate is ready to go...one of the best in Toowoomba...As soon as I draw some plans up for him.

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 5:43 pm
by Matt
I am sure you could sell some more if he and you are interested?

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 1:50 am
by Pommiebrat
Just for info, I got a new tank made for my Brumby by a guy from a company called OEC international who build overland project vehicles and run challenge events. He counselled against using Aluminium for the structure material and built it from mild steel instead. This was for two reasons: aluminium is much more susceptible to damage from flying debris or more imporantly, bottoming on something when off road - mild steel will bend and dent, the aluminium will just crack along a weld. Secondly, safety issues asside such as draining, rinsing and leaving to breath, most back street/off the beaten track mechanics can bodge-weld a patch over a piece of mild steel. Repairing aluminium requires specilist equipment and significantly more skill. I'm exploring the jerry can option with a weighted feed line to a second facet pump so I have a true reserve tank that can be filled up and carried back to the vehicle in the event the main tank gets holed.

Cheers,

John

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:22 am
by tex
Or if its not too late investigate the option of a race tank revolution used to sell them drag cars and all sorts use them typically rectangular so just make up a tray for it to sit on! i've been looking at mine and theres plenty of room with the 3 inch lift!