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suspension, safari/rally(style) maybe longride?
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:45 pm
by Phizinza
So, what is there in the world of long ride suspension that I could put on my Brumby that is tough enough to cope with Safari/Rally style of driving? I'm not just talking about offroading, I mean pounding the hell out of it. Any ideas, lets leave money out of it for now. Show me what is available.
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:43 pm
by BlackMale
Anything is possible it all comes down to what you want and $$$
Re: suspension, safari/rally(style) maybe longride?
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:27 pm
by tim_81coupe
Phizinza wrote:So, what is there in the world of long ride suspension that I could put on my Brumby that is tough enough to cope with Safari/Rally style of driving?
The question really is: Is the Brumby chassis capable of coping with Safari/Rally style of driving?
Answer is: not for long.
If I can bend pieces of suspension in my wagon from offroading, if Oversteer was able to feel the floor flex from torque in his old EJ20G L series, if the Hatcharino snaps balljoints on tarmac then no your Brumby won't cope with the really heavy stuff.
I bend things quite a bit in my offroader, radius rods are a favourite, but I've also done the plates that mount to the gearbox crossmember, rear diff hanger, moustache bar, rear control arms, front control arms..... the list goes on! I can't see "Safari/Rally style of driving" being any nicer to your Brumby than what a bit of offroad work is to my wagon.
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:55 pm
by MUDRAT
Like Tim said, the monocoque chassis is the weak point. I've gone and braced mine with 5mm plate everywhere, but it's still going to break one day.
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 10:21 pm
by Phizinza
Any answers to the question?
I am willing to fix it for every drive. I am willing to upgrade it... But what I don't get is the complete lack of answers on this forum. I know you think these "answers" are important. But please keep on topic, I did ask a very simple question. As for budget, give me a link to anything upto $10k worth. If you can't answer "what ca I get in the way of suspension that is in a safari style that I can mod onto my Brumby" please don't post here, instead you could PM me what you think or Post a "how tough I think MY chassis are" thread.
Sorry. I am just getting annoied with the lack of topic following. Do i need to read the rules again? I thought off topic stuff isn't aloud to clog up a thread. I ask for Surrius answers only, is that ok?
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 10:55 pm
by smoov
Phizinza wrote:Any answers to the question?
I am willing to fix it for every drive. I am willing to upgrade it... But what I don't get is the complete lack of answers on this forum. I know you think these "answers" are important. But please keep on topic, I did ask a very simple question. As for budget, give me a link to anything upto $10k worth. If you can't answer "what ca I get in the way of suspension that is in a safari style that I can mod onto my Brumby" please don't post here, instead you could PM me what you think or Post a "how tough I think MY chassis are" thread.
Sorry. I am just getting annoied with the lack of topic following. Do i need to read the rules again? I thought off topic stuff isn't aloud to clog up a thread. I ask for Surrius answers only, is that ok?
your agression sucks donkey balls. put up or
STFU. you should respect the advice from the more experienced and learned members of this forum, and not whine like a little girl that's got her panties in a bunch.
as mentioned, the monocoque bodies of the subarus are the weakest points. ive bent a couple of things in my time also, even with having excellent suspension. having great suspension only means that the forces will be translated from the suspension to the body, and subarus are notoriously weak there. it may be an idea to completely strip the car bare, and weld up plates basically anywhere and everywhere any sort of suspension, crossmember, or engine mounts up to. but even then, the forces will be transmitted to the next thing in line - bushes, mounts, bolts, nuts. remember subaru have many nuts that are tacked to the "chassis" (i use this term here loosely) that are specially aligned, and are tacked onto the thin sheet metal that is the "chassis".
so basically, rule out any paris to dakar runs. you won't be competing with a brumby. in my honest opinion, go for a car with a real chassis if you intend on this form of motorsport.
if you intend on keeping the brumby, apply the K.I.S.S. theory. just enjoy the bloody thing as it is!
as for long travel suspension (praise the lord....an answer to your so beloved and cherished question)....
WHY?? so you can pop your cv joints out constantly when put into angles and situations that it doesnt normally endure with normal suspension geometry??
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 1:33 am
by tim_81coupe
Well answered Alex.
Phizinza I think I'm beginning to have a real problem with you. I don't like forum shitfights and I don't like whingers or whinging. But the worst thing I find on internet forums is people who don't listen/read when they should. Do you actually read our answers? Do you understand them? I don't think you do.
To answer your original question:
http://kingshocks.com/
They do offroad shocks by the look of it, maybe you could email them and ask if they'll adapt them to your Brumby. If you get a reply could I ask you post it up here for us to see?:lol:
Seriously, I can't understand why you're asking this question here. Why not Google a bit and see what you can find? Have you ever really sat down and looked at the design of the front suspension of an MY? Its not overly flash and realistically it's not that strong. Our main point with the chassis strengthening was that with factory components the unibody takes a pounding, beefing things up would worsen matters.
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 10:18 am
by Xtreme_RX
If you want information on suspension setups/ systems.
PM me or email me at
[email protected]
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 2:55 pm
by Phizinza
Thanks Justin, I'll give you an email in a mo.
I done my research, I was wondering if someone else would show me something I didn't find, or if they would show me something I had already thought about. As most of man kind knows, what it says on the box doesn't mean thats what it is or can do. I realise I am asking in the wrong place for this, I will goto a more offroad racing oriented site and ask there.
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 3:01 pm
by Phizinza
smoov wrote:it may be an idea to completely strip the car bare, and weld up plates basically anywhere and everywhere any sort of suspension, crossmember, or engine mounts up to.
I was thinking more along the lines of cutting out whats in there and creating a tube frame chassis for the car. Just keep the original body style and running gear. But anyhow, I guess most would think that to be a waist of time.
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:27 pm
by bluesteel
im contemplating a rollcage for the monsterwagon, that just happens to bolt to all the major suspension points (was thinking thats gotta stiffen everything up a lot)
would take a lot of work tho
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:05 pm
by Matt
I beleive the rear shocks from a '60 series crusier fit and have the same compressed height just longer stroke. The only problem is you need to make the top flat piece to mount them. I could be wrong on this but......
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:07 pm
by smoov
Phizinza wrote:smoov wrote:it may be an idea to completely strip the car bare, and weld up plates basically anywhere and everywhere any sort of suspension, crossmember, or engine mounts up to.
I was thinking more along the lines of cutting out whats in there and creating a tube frame chassis for the car. Just keep the original body style and running gear. But anyhow, I guess most would think that to be a waist of time.
i wouldn't backyard this though... everything has to be precisely aligned, else you'll have big dramas later.
tubular chassis? i wouldnt go as to that far. perhaps making a makeshift "chassis" that joins all the lift blocks together in unison may help make things a little more rigid, but you're still at the mercy of the strength and leverage forces against the bolts and captive nuts.
imho, ditch the lift kit. don't run 27's. rob way too much power.
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:49 pm
by MUDRAT
Here's two links:
http://www.pirate4x4.com
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com
Don't mention Ausubaru, if you do I'll kill your dog.
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:58 pm
by smoov
you'll need these too

Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:52 am
by Phizinza
smoov wrote: but you're still at the mercy of the strength and leverage forces against the bolts and captive nuts.
imho, ditch the lift kit. don't run 27's. rob way too much power.
agreed.
60 series, huh. I had one of those once. All gone now

damn rust.
Anybody able to confirm this? maybe i'll head out to U-pull it ans see what I can fit on a MY.
lol, you won't have any problem with me mentioning ausubaru.. oh, I don't have a dog... but you can kill any dog on my property if you want.
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:13 am
by smoov
Phizinza wrote:smoov wrote: but you're still at the mercy of the strength and leverage forces against the bolts and captive nuts.
imho, ditch the lift kit. don't run 27's. rob way too much power.
agreed.
60 series, huh. I had one of those once. All gone now

damn rust.
Anybody able to confirm this? maybe i'll head out to U-pull it ans see what I can fit on a MY.
lol, you won't have any problem with me mentioning ausubaru.. oh, I don't have a dog... but you can kill any dog on my property if you want.
i think he was referring to your mother

Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:13 am
by ToyRX
Sorry Mate, I am a little confused
If you are after a rally/club type car for grass events/hillclimbs etc then the last thing you would want is a lift kit and big tyres, the handling/power will go out the window and you will keep breaking things - you are better off trying to find some of the old 38/28?mm Bilstein L series struts, they are a bolt on and height adjustable, failing that use Legacy Bilsteins and modify ball joint mount and top hat mounts (as discussed in another of your threads). Last resort would be KYB's with custom heavy duty springs but basically anything smaller than ~35mm on the front wont last so I would expect to replace the KYB's reguarly.
If you are into more "extreame" racing, offroad/mud lugging/4WD tracks etc then liftkit and big tyres will help for the ground clearance but I know feck all about what "long reach" suspention to use.
Hope this helps?
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:37 pm
by Phizinza
Yeah, I was looking into different types of racing. It was probably confusing as I did not mention what type I was most interested in. I was looking at Off road racing, which needs good clearence and all that. Anyhow, I think we can leave it at this for now. Thanks for your help. I have plenty of ideas and I will post again once something starts happening. Which might be a while.
Oh, so my 60 series didn't rust out, smoov got her!?