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I'd like to remove this gadget from my car because it serves no purpose for me and jut gets in the way .

I do remember removing the brake lines from an auto car at the wreckers and what a pain of a job it was to get them out from behind the brake booster .

Just so I've got it right is it this HH or the lack of it in autos that determines if the brake master cylinder is 3 port or 4 ?

I've been reading the other string about changing the master and booster over to Liberty or Impreza bits and since my RX L's master is getting tired I thought I might kill a few birds with the one conversion .

Now my car has a non turbo L series pedal box which solved the clutch pedal dramas so will the Liberty or Impreza booster bolt in with no mods ?
Is there a master cylinder that will then bolt in and approximately match up with how ever many brake lines a non hill holder car has ?

Cheers A .

BTW it is my experience that if brakes feel overboosted one way to get around that is to use a larger bore master cylinder . Somewhere in the range Subaru have used a 1 1/16 bore master where from memory early libs are 1" .
Later boosters probably have more assist than early ones because of the greater vehicle weight and master/caliper piston bore sizes .
One of these lifetimes I'll have to get around to fitting my CrossBred kit but ATM I'm tied down with header and turbo conversions and eventually a computer a bit more sophisticated than a 70's transister radio . I also need to sort out front struts and small diameter springs because the ones I intended to use fell through . May look into Koni again since Impreza Bilsteins are harder to get .

So if I can fit a later master/booster/flick the HH it saves time and money maintaining the original L stuff .

how come you want remove it? I find HH very handy in hilly situations. Surely its adjusted correctly?
Cheers
AP

just disconnect the cable disco.

yeah second the "remove cable" method, then you can always reconnected it down the track.

i removed the one on my rx, but the clutch pedal is so soft you cant tell when the clutch is going to engage. i think the HH aids in some pressure on the clutch fork (returning it when your foot is off the pedal)? so another spring added to the fork might be needed to get a better feeling clutch pedal.

i could be wrong i didnt drive the rx with it connected, but it seems this way.

Yeah I agree above to disconnect the cable or loosen it up - less mucking around for the future and doesn't do any harm to it. but if HH is in the "way" for something then you'll have to disconnect from the booster etc...
Cheers
AP

My Gregorys manual said that the big return spring on the clutch fork was not needed if it had a HH, so I took it off and made the pedal very light, but still works ok, cable on HH needs adjusting when adjusting the clutch cable so maybe just wind it off at the fork?

i stop my buy winding it off at the fork and it will not work .

I never had it working and the cable is long gone . Truly I find it easier to use the handbrake and being AWD LR is usable at any time .

No I'd just like it gone to clean up the engine bay and if the master/booster is being changed the lines need to be bled anyway .

Anyway was I right , do non HH cars have the three port master cylinder ?

Cheers A .

SVX's used the larger 1 1/16" bore, just make sure if you find one it is without ABS, or has ABS if you need it (?) due to the different number of ports.

I can tell you disco that the HH works very well, even with AWD. Also, if you've ever used it you wouldn't be wanting to remove it - its very effective and serves a purpose.

Either way its your subi and your call. I'd say replace the cable (I've got one you can have) and see what you think of it. You just need to adjust it so that the brakes let go as the clutch starts to bite - heaps easier than a handbrake start!

Cheers

Bennie

No , I'm not interested in the thing and want it gone . Every other thing I drive like cars trucks and locomotives get by fine without the HH and if I can lift thousands of tonnes without it I can lift a light weight car from rest using the right tool for the job .

A .

just get a new brake line made up and fit it .
Then HH all gone out of site out of mind .

My L's hill holder is adjusted away to zero function, and I don't feel any need to change that.

Disco, the automatic cars I've looked at do have one extra port on the master cylinder, with a line going off to each wheel.

Dane.

discopotato03 wrote:Every other thing I drive like cars trucks and locomotives

Locomotives?

Suparoo wrote:Locomotives?

Trains?
Cheers
AP

I know what locomotives are. I watched 'Thomas the Tank Engine' when i was younger.

My question was more about Adrian comparing hill starts between a train and a car.

In a steel horse it works like this , no foot work at all .

Throttle up the desired throttle notch (one-eight) release the engine brakes slowly making sure they don't creep backwards , apply sand and it all should walk away .

More interesting standing on a 1 in 30 grade like at Dombarton on Illawarra Mountain with the train brakes still applied because the engine brakes won't hold the train on the grade . Dial up about 6 notches release the engine brakes then the train brakes and it should make forward progress .

Really nothing like anything rubber tyred in any way shape or form .

A .