The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

can some one give me some feed back on this .
i are looking at building a lift for my L series .
i are going to lift the front "4" .
all the back suspension i are looking at droping "2" and the back strut spacers "4" and diff "2" so u have not got the diff hanging so low as with the BYb kits .
any feed back wood be grate .


phill

http://www.ausubaru.com.au/showthread.p ... ift+series

Have a read of that.

so what do u think of it .

this is wear i was looking at it http://www.westcoaststompers.com/

got some info and pics in my post,
showthread.php?t=14111
But i don't have much more ideas or advice as im also new to all this.

Maybe aT, GOD and others can help:)

i have look at all of this

Phil, with the kit you're looking at building - the rear end, from what I understand:
- K frame dropped 2 inches
- Rear diff dropped 2 inches
- strut tops dropped 4 inches

Correct?

If so the biggest problem you're going to experience with this setup is that you'll be shagging CV's like they're going out of fashion. The increased angle on the CV's will be pushing them towards their maximum amount of movement equaling more movement of the CV's inners for each rotation plus the fact that they weren't designed to operate at these angles for long periods of time will wear them out quicker if you don't break them first.

A much safer angle to work with is a 3 inch diff drop and the 4 inch strut tops. The 2 inch drop of the K frame will most likely give you some suspension geometry issues, but this would be easy to play with as its only a few blocks to create to get it right. Or if you're keen to go further I have this idea of moving the mounting points of the swing arms down an inch or two from where they are to give the wheel a good arch of travel into the guard. I have no idea what this mod will do to the CV angles as its only a thought at the moment...

Hope this helps you out.

Cheers

Bennie

Unless you have a fair idea about how the rear geometry works and the steps needed to change it to perform the way you are suggesting, don't do it. The rear trailing arm and it's mounts are designed to induce a camber change in the available travel. Forcing the trailing arm down to create a ride height virtually at full rebound will put enourmous strain on the inner bush and the outer mounting plate bolts. It will also harshen the ride.
On top of that, the lowest point underneath your car will remain to be the front of the engine.

hey benny thats not entirely accurate i dont think

my beige turbo L series wagon, had 3" in the front and 2" strut lift in the rear without anything on the kframe or diffs, and i never broke a cv in its life, and either did the previous owned..and let me tell u it got a flogging....

maybe each cars is a little bit unique in terms of the suspension geometry and thigns like that.

i dunno...just a thought, as it didnt affect my wagon at all..but gained some reasonably clearance but in other cars it might have a huge effect


dave

thanks for all the info i have from u all it will all help a lot os i can get started on it .
- K frame dropped 2 inches
- Rear diff dropped 2 inches
- strut tops dropped 4 inches
with this set up your cv angle is still the same as u are droping the diff 4 inches .
i will draw it up on cad and see how it looks before i build it so i will know how it will perform before i build it .
all the way i have been thinking about is just drop strut lift in the rear "4" and the diff "2" only as "2" on the cv is not that much at all and the cv are not driving it if it is not in 4WD as i are not doing it as a AWD car .
And as the suspension geometry is a thing but u are not doing any thing to it so how do u think it is going to change as the ark as it will be the same .
i will build it and see how it gos and do mods from there as u have to do some thing before u know if it will work or not .
and the more input u all give me i will think about .
by the way i are a boilermaker/engineer /engine rebuilder by trade so i think i will come up with some thing that will work i the long term buy playing around with it .
and from all the feed back everyone gives me .
re
phill

phillatdarwin wrote:thanks for all the info i have from u all it will all help a lot os i can get started on it .
- K frame dropped 2 inches
- Rear diff dropped 2 inches
- strut tops dropped 4 inches
with this set up your cv angle is still the same as u are droping the diff 4 inches .

Have you looked at the rear suspension setup in an L series? Get under your L and have a good look. I say this because the rear diff is mounted on the K frame at the front of the diff and from the moustach bar at the rear (which is independant of the K frame). So effectively you would have dropped your diff 4 inches at its front and 2 inches at its rear, going by what you've said. Its not hard to sort that out. You might even get away with a piece of box tubing for a moustach bar with that sort of lift, actually, the fuel tank might get in the way

If you do drop the front of the diff a further 2 inches from the K frame and the rear 4 inches from either the chassis rails at either end of the moustache bar or from the moustach bar itself, you'll get a 4 inch diff drop. And from what Devil was saying, it sounds like it is do-able.

I guess the best thing about doing it yourself is being able to tweak it as you go, then you can get exactly what you want and see first hand what works/what doesn't - I realise there's some stuffing around with it but if you're keen that's what you'll go through to get it (along with asking these questions ).

Do get a comfy rug/under car trolley bench and have a good look at the rear end - work out from there what you think will work for what you want

Cheers

Bennie

yes i think u are right have a sleep under it and just think .
i are going to build one soon so will post some pic up soon .

any pics of your 4in lift kit ?
cheers brenton