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Is there something like an official drive modification thread for Subaru dl and gl with detailed information?

i'm wondering about getting another diff and driveshafts, and turn my subaru into rwd in the summer with possibility of locking,
and do some drifting for car days here in my hometown in iceland. And put it back in 4wd in the winter also with the possibility
of locking at the rear. I got the idea in general but i need a little detail how it's done, pictures would help alot.

Pics shouldn't be needed, just a set of shagged out front shafts to "disembowl".

Basically with a second set of front shafts:

- Pull them all apart
- The only bit you need for what you want is the splined stub axle to hold the front hub assembly together.
- Remove your good shafts and replace with the stub axles.
- Engage "4wd" to have rear wheel drive.
- Go have fun!

That's about it. As for "locking up" the rear, your best bet would be to go a tight LSD if you can find an LSD to start off with... If you can find two could you please send one my way

Cheers

Bennie

i doubt i will ever find LSD around here, i was thinking more about welding the extra diff since i
can get it free since the wreck it's on is half way in the trash. However, i don't know how easily
things break if it's completely locked and i'm burning rubber. If things go bad though i would just
put the originals back under :P

but where exactly should the drive shafts be cut? do i take out the ends?

The driveshafts do not need to be cut. As Elfredo says, you just need to remove your complete front driveshafts and replace them with the splined outer piece that goes through the hub - the ends. You'd want to get a separate set of these so you can avoid dismantling your own good driveshafts.

Running RWD in an L series usually results in breakages as the rear end really isn't designed to have 100% of the power going through it (although if you are running an EA82 engine this won't matter as much). At a minimum you will want to strengthen your diff hanger bar (or moustache bar) - usually people get a second one, cut the ends off, and weld it to the first one doubling it's thickness. Otherwise they tend to bend. These problems are massively amplified by running a welded diff.

Here's an easy way to pull the front shafts apart. The design is pretty much the same Subaru to ifs Toyota

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEaWyxF1 ... annel_page

right, disassemble :P

I also heard some guys shorten one shaft at the rear so it's easier to put it in and out when
you need to kick it in lock on the spot, is that a good idea? or did i misunderstand something?

when you have a welded rear diff most people remove one of the rear drive shafts when driving on tarmac (to prevent the driveline binding up and tires chirping in carparks etc). To make removing and reinstalling that driveshaft easier most people grind abit off the stub axels to shorten them slightly. This is for people who still have their front driveshafts and drive in front wheel drive when on the tarmac.

However in your case, you will be running RWD-only (for drifting purposes). If you removed one rear driveshaft you would only be running 1 wheel drive. This is highly not advisable! I've done it....the car squirms all over the road even on slight acceleration and deceleration and twists the hell out of the remaining driveshaft. Very dangerous.

(note - I did it in my old Mazda RX-7 and it was only on the drive home from when I snapped one of my driveshafts clean in two with a welded rear diff - third gear burnout then *snap* hehe). I've heard stories from others who've driven 1 wheel drive in an L series and their cars drove just like mine did from the description.

so it's safer to have the both driveshafts in while in rwd in normal driving? i'll just need tires i don't care about then? :P

yeah absolutely. while driving normally it won't really kill the tyres too badly though, unless you start smoking them up all the time!

thanks for the info guys, i'll update when i start the process