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Now I am not out to create any enemies however this 1 has been on my mind for a while. I have not given it the time in this mail either however I am curious to know who has done what with their recovery/snatch points (both front and rear)?

I know the trend is to just weld and/or bolt those ratted tow hooks from 4WD shops. Are we just welding them onto tow bars n stuff and hopping for the best?!?!?

I know that the original ‘towing point’ are well below average and no good for anything other then towing. I am also aware that we do not have the weight of other 4WD’s however we are not totally ammune to being stuck/bogged (some of us are more ammune then other though).

The reason I ask is that I have been thinking about how to over-engineer something for the Subaru (specifically the L) and/or paying someone so that we can ensure others safety (at least where snatch points are concerned). Where things take a nasty turn and its not nice to say is on the other hand why bother 8O . Why over engineer something at a cost (specifically to us) to ensure the thing will not let go and injure someone if the same curtesy has not been given to our safety.

Any thought? So what/how are we securing these point?

Thanks.

You've raised an excellent point there, one that has been on weighing on my mind for months.

The OE tie-down hooks on the L series work - I've used them many times - however I know it's only going to be a matter of time before one lets go.

My line of thinking is that stronger, rated, towing attachments could be attached to the sub frame forward of the engine crossmember - perhapse even tied back in to engine crossmember bolts. use rated bolts and crush tube through the frame and the world should be peachy!!

best one i ever saw was on scott's old red RX

he had a very heavy bash plate that mounted back onto the engine crossmember, and a steel bullbar. the tow hook was bolted through the bash plate onto the bullbar distributing the load between the engine crossmember and the bullbar mounts.

Also looked cool having a huge tow hook in the centre of his bullbar

That's a good idea but I wouldn't dare use it on a lifted car - I've seen how much that crossmember can move with the leverage of a couple of extra inches.

the car only had a 2" kit in it at that stage, and never had any issues getting towed out of some pretty serious bogs.

You're probably right though, with your 4" lift you probably dont want to put too much strain on the crossmember.

My continual consultation with people about this is continuing…. FYI today I was advised from some Subaru people that are in the know, and have been for many many years, that the front is going to require some thought. The tow point will take some punishment as long as you are not SERIOUSLY stuck, and if you are then yes consider moding something off the front chase rails. I think more work could be required for the front.

As for the rear the advice seem to be that if you have a tow bar then remove the ball (for obvious reasons) and then just use the (ratted) shackle through the hole in the tongue. Again unless you have SERIOUSLY berried the thing (or attempting to snatch a seriously bogged ‘real’ 4WD) then this should be sufficient, and take the loads/stress’s.

Thoughts?

Im watching this post with interest.. Hatchie has the power and the attitude to recover vehicles but it in no way has the pull points.

Dave

Yeah, tow bar for sure on the rear.

As for snatching big 4x4s, I only will if they're only hung up. Buried in mud or sand - forget it buddy, I'll get the tractor. Even my brother's old Sierra with 31s on it could have enough suction under the tires (cos they were pretty big tires) to really throw the back end of my Subaru around when I'd hit it hard.

Now I don't see a real problem with using the standard tie-down points for winching, just the hard jerk of the snatch-um strap makes me wince.

There was an alternate method of snatching (similar effectiveness, much gentler) published in a 4WD Monthly a few months back - did anyone else read it?

MUDRAT wrote: There was an alternate method of snatching (similar effectiveness, much gentler) published in a 4WD Monthly a few months back - did anyone else read it?

Yes. I have been thinking about testing it out on our next sand/beach run. Would be alot less stress on stuff (potentially).

And yes I'll keep Hatchie informed

I am making mine for the liberty now

it will come off the bolts on the motor cradle ( have lift kit and purchased longer bolts at the time via the bolts on the bumper ( I have a ally bull bar .It will look like the letter ( A ) as this - will stop the two points trying to pull the rails together when snatched .

I must say now I only plan to pull others out thats why I putting this tow point on .

seagull

theres already a good front tow point on the liberty's in the drivers side chassis rail. something sharing it between both rails though would be good.

this is what i did on the back of my L... I incorporated a very heavy duty tow bar with the recovery points and spare wheel carrier etc. the only down side of it in my mind is that i used the original bolt holes for the old hooks and they are very close to the outside edge of the vehicle, I'd prefer 2 keep the stress in the centre of the car.

Don't SubaXtreme make tow hooks specifically for this reason?

I love SubaX, they are going to be the BYB of this decade, however:

1) Their tow points are only available for Forester and Outback,
2) All their tow points do are replace the OE bolt on tie down hooks with blot on recovery points.

In reality they're just stronger bolt on tie downs; the mountings are not designed to do any more than lash a car to the deck of a ship betwen Japan and Australia.

Get in quick if you want the SubaXtreme gear, I've heard that Jody is looking to sell up!

So there is a move to sell the business ? Their gear is among the best I have come across for sube's, it would be a crying shame to see all the development hard work disappear.

Any reason why the change of direction ?