Vortex Manual Conversion - Help Please!!!
Vortex Manual Conversion - Help Please!!!
Hi Everyone,
I am new to this forum - I am the very proud owner of a 1986 Vortex XT turbo (EA82T) with selectable 4WD and 3spd auto gearbox. It is a great vehicle that my dad and I both enjoy!
The weakest part of the vehicle at the moment is the 3spd auto box - it won't change up under load, so you have to get off the gas to let it change and then get back on it - this is less than ideal and makes what would otherwise be a reasonably quick car into something else entirely! I have changed the fluid in the auto trans, but to no avail, problem remains, although takeoff and hill starts improved.
What I would really like to do is a manual conversion, it would be an amazing car to drive with 4WD manual. My local Subaru wrecker has 5sp Leone/Omega gearboxes, and I wanted to know if one of these will fit? How about cross-members/driveshafts etc? Does the 3sp auto have a computer? Dashboard wiring etc should not be an issue.
I have previously done a manual conversion on my S13 Silvia, which was very successful, and the vehicle has never given me any grief. The entire procedure went very smoothly because I was able to find all the parts needed in advance, and we had the whole conversion done in a day! If I could pull off a similar feat for the Vortex, that would be excellent. Any and all help appreciated (inc help on improving the auto box!).
I am new to this forum - I am the very proud owner of a 1986 Vortex XT turbo (EA82T) with selectable 4WD and 3spd auto gearbox. It is a great vehicle that my dad and I both enjoy!
The weakest part of the vehicle at the moment is the 3spd auto box - it won't change up under load, so you have to get off the gas to let it change and then get back on it - this is less than ideal and makes what would otherwise be a reasonably quick car into something else entirely! I have changed the fluid in the auto trans, but to no avail, problem remains, although takeoff and hill starts improved.
What I would really like to do is a manual conversion, it would be an amazing car to drive with 4WD manual. My local Subaru wrecker has 5sp Leone/Omega gearboxes, and I wanted to know if one of these will fit? How about cross-members/driveshafts etc? Does the 3sp auto have a computer? Dashboard wiring etc should not be an issue.
I have previously done a manual conversion on my S13 Silvia, which was very successful, and the vehicle has never given me any grief. The entire procedure went very smoothly because I was able to find all the parts needed in advance, and we had the whole conversion done in a day! If I could pull off a similar feat for the Vortex, that would be excellent. Any and all help appreciated (inc help on improving the auto box!).
Too bad your not a bit closer mate, I have a 3spd you could have for next to nix. But your right a 5spd 4WD box would be optimum. I "believe" they are the same as the rest of the L's, leone etc. And would bolt right in assuming yours is a 3spd 4X4 box... If yours is 2WD then there is a bit more work but too difficult if you know someone who can do a bit of welding for the diff hanger and drive shaft mounts. Best to do a bit of a search on here and seek out the Vortex owners and PM them. There are a few of them, Ouback Bloke. Dave B4 to name a few. Good luck mate!
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
I would also search around in the Ultimate Subaru Message Board (USMB) American site , they got many more XT4s than we did and XT6s which we didn't get at all .
Before you buy a box ask around about the full time 4wd version of the XT4 gearbox because they came std with them in the locally available later XT4s (the spider inlet manifold Turbo 4WD one) .
What is instantly noticable is that you can "boot" an AWD L/XT4 along and it doesn't do the front wheelspin/wheel hop over speed humps lark .
What happens is you double the traction because you double the tyre contact area under drive loads . Also you don't have the front suspension trying to drag the total weight of the vehicle around so the negative steering feedback is much less of a problem .
There were dual range versions of the AWD manual gearbox available but I think only in L Series cars .
Being in NZ you would have a wide range of Jap imports running around because of the demise of the local car manufacturuing industry some years back .
Someone here should be able to tell you which model JDM L Series cars had that box and you may be able to find one at an import wrecker over there .
Cheers A .
Before you buy a box ask around about the full time 4wd version of the XT4 gearbox because they came std with them in the locally available later XT4s (the spider inlet manifold Turbo 4WD one) .
What is instantly noticable is that you can "boot" an AWD L/XT4 along and it doesn't do the front wheelspin/wheel hop over speed humps lark .
What happens is you double the traction because you double the tyre contact area under drive loads . Also you don't have the front suspension trying to drag the total weight of the vehicle around so the negative steering feedback is much less of a problem .
There were dual range versions of the AWD manual gearbox available but I think only in L Series cars .
Being in NZ you would have a wide range of Jap imports running around because of the demise of the local car manufacturuing industry some years back .
Someone here should be able to tell you which model JDM L Series cars had that box and you may be able to find one at an import wrecker over there .
Cheers A .
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
I am contemplating same with my 87 GLTA L series 4WD turbo auto sedan as I have removed a manual box and everything else from my pristine wagon. My auto does the same sometimes , and just when you want it to shift you end up holding up traffic to shift gear !! May be in the vacuum thingy on the drivers side underneath
jI'd half expect all the gear from a manual to swap straight into the vortex. Is tailshaft same length ?
the 3 speed auto selectable 4WD were not computer driven, but your ECU (3 plug ? I suspect it is 4 plug in Vortex) will have a pin to either ground or disconnect from ground on conversion. May not be absolutely necessary but....
jI'd half expect all the gear from a manual to swap straight into the vortex. Is tailshaft same length ?
the 3 speed auto selectable 4WD were not computer driven, but your ECU (3 plug ? I suspect it is 4 plug in Vortex) will have a pin to either ground or disconnect from ground on conversion. May not be absolutely necessary but....
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
Yep , need to check out the Air Flow Meter .
Early Vortex XT4s (85/86 so far as know) had the vane type AFM so the "Three plug ECU" and selectable rear wheel drive .
I believe it was around the 3rd/4th month in 1987 that Vortexs and L series cars went to the 4 plug ECU and in locally available Vortexs the all wheel drive gearbox and the spider inlet manifold .
If you followed my epics you'd know the Spider turbo Vortex engine I had rebuilt is from an 87 build car , the looms (engine to body) have different plugs to early and late L MPFI cars - who knows why .
Cheers A .
Early Vortex XT4s (85/86 so far as know) had the vane type AFM so the "Three plug ECU" and selectable rear wheel drive .
I believe it was around the 3rd/4th month in 1987 that Vortexs and L series cars went to the 4 plug ECU and in locally available Vortexs the all wheel drive gearbox and the spider inlet manifold .
If you followed my epics you'd know the Spider turbo Vortex engine I had rebuilt is from an 87 build car , the looms (engine to body) have different plugs to early and late L MPFI cars - who knows why .
Cheers A .
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
The rally people showed me how to win the fight with those mongrel clips though its no match for the GM style Bosch ones .
I think the final solution is to see if the female spades can be got intact out of the plastic plug section and fitted to the good GM style ones .
If you look inside the original injector plugs you should see a small rectangular hole above the female brass spade . In that hole is a tang aimed upwards and backwards in the plug body and it prevents the connectors from staying on the injector when you pull the plug assembly away .
If you can get in that hole and gently press the tang down the brass fitting should slide backwards out of the old plug body .
It may be possible to bend the tang up again and click them into the GM type plug body - the ones where you push down on the spring clip and pull the plug off the injector . BTW these GM style plugs are on early V6 Commodores so just a pliers cut away at your local you pull it wrecker .
New plugs are always best but if your just changing the plastic part ...
There are proper tools for getting brass fittings out of plug bodies but exy for something used on rare occasions .
MIG wire is small gauge and very rigid so it works well in this situation and if you ask around any welding shop they'd probably give you a short bit - say 5-6 in long - if you ask nicely .
Cheers A .
Actually away with work tonight so will throw a couple of plugs in and see what I can do .
I think the final solution is to see if the female spades can be got intact out of the plastic plug section and fitted to the good GM style ones .
If you look inside the original injector plugs you should see a small rectangular hole above the female brass spade . In that hole is a tang aimed upwards and backwards in the plug body and it prevents the connectors from staying on the injector when you pull the plug assembly away .
If you can get in that hole and gently press the tang down the brass fitting should slide backwards out of the old plug body .
It may be possible to bend the tang up again and click them into the GM type plug body - the ones where you push down on the spring clip and pull the plug off the injector . BTW these GM style plugs are on early V6 Commodores so just a pliers cut away at your local you pull it wrecker .
New plugs are always best but if your just changing the plastic part ...
There are proper tools for getting brass fittings out of plug bodies but exy for something used on rare occasions .
MIG wire is small gauge and very rigid so it works well in this situation and if you ask around any welding shop they'd probably give you a short bit - say 5-6 in long - if you ask nicely .
Cheers A .
Actually away with work tonight so will throw a couple of plugs in and see what I can do .