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Hi all , been mucking around with RX L Series and the equiv diameter/strength FrWD Lib front drive shafts .

I need a std RX shaft soon to tide me over but I hope to learn some interesting "freebies" from the CV and Power Steer place in Rydalmere Sydney .
I discovered them through the Brindabella Motor Sport Club (BMSC) , rally people don't go to clots .
I was talking to Sid there about the possibilities in extending the distance between the DOJ and the CV joint so that I can have my front lower control arms extended and lose the L Series factory built in @#%&*g positive camber . Sid mentioned that it may be possible to turn the DOJ's ball cage and inner race section around to pick a bit of extra length . If it works its free and easily reversable .
He also said his offsider has a list of various shaft lengths and spline counts so there may be something out there that does the job without breaking the bank .

To be continued when I know more , fingers crossed cheers A .

Turning the star around will make your driveshaft shorter.....

I went down this path with my ute and everything with the right spline is way long, like about 100mm or more. But if he does find something post it up... I would be interested.

I'm not sure it would do you any good Mat because MY series use shorter front shafts than L Series - and Turbo L Series use thicker 25 splined axle shafts . MY shafts (the steel bar) I think are 22 spline .

I had a look at an 87 WSM and sadly the DOJ guts are offset outwards normally - possibilities for MY with RX Turbo shafts though .

I need to compare the FrWD Liberty DOJ to RX L series because they are not the same thing , they should have the same 25 splined holes for the diff stubs and axle shafts but need to check effective axial lengths .

Later , cheers A .

Sorry should have posted i have L Series control arms and shafts. My bad....

Lengths aside for a tick I took one of my half gutted RX shafts (DOJ and both boots off - couldn't remove non genuine CV) to Australian C.V. & Power Steering at Rydalmere .
I explained that I was a Fitter Machinist ages ago and asked to see the press tools used to remove that CV joint . Tapered three piece collet to hold shaft and Enerpac .

They let me stay and watch them rebuild my shaft complete with a remanufactured OEM CV joint . I made a point of asking about why they like to reman OEM CV's and was the grinding of the races an issue . Sid told me that the originals are hard faced to a depth of 70 thou so as long as not too much needs to be removed alls well . He said these last longer than cheap Chow Mein joints and usually no dramas .
He took a dislike to my non genuine CV and had two remanufactured genuine ones plus an aftermarket Japanese made joint .
I opted for a remanned original joint so all they had to do was remove the old one/fit grease the "new" one and clean/grease the DOJ - new boots of course . Damage ? Try $110 and 12 months warranty because its for a 4WD Turbo application , others get 3 yrs .
At that price it wasn't worth me getting my hands dirty .

If in Sydney and have any inquiries ring them on 02 9638 0022 .

For a place I'd never been before I reckon I got great service , will be back in future for sure .

Cheers A .

Oh and yes they agree , OEM CV joints come off the shaft reasonably easily where ring ins put up much more of a fight ...

Also I asked about the nice tool getting around that tensions/bends/cuts the boot clamps , they sent me a block away to KOK in Clyde Rd Rydalmere and I bought one so I can do my own boots if required .

It owes me $40 but has its own little spool and rachet handle to wind the steel strip up with , when tight enough a nifty slide tang locks the spool so you can bend it back on itself and a side lever/cutter nips off the excess . All thats left is to bend the side tabs over and bobs your uncle .

Think I'm gonna have to buy another tool box to house all the specific automote tools I've accumulated over the years . Things like this and caliper piston pushers etc etc .

A .