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Im having a big issue with trying to hold my ej22 motor into the engine bay of the hatch since i added the super charger to it.

Keeping the motor so it doesn't move about is a must due to the lack of space. All engine and gear box mounts are absolutely fine but the other brace, the engine stay rod, will not stay in one peice.

Seams that if i beaf up the engine stay rod then the bracket snaps... i beaf that up then the rod snappes. There isn't much more i can do and still maintain any sort of rubber dampening on the rod. I then have to be worried about the fire wall bracket taking the pressure.

What do performance cars do... rubber straps? Something like a seat belt over the gear box? A simple tie down strap holding strapping the gear box to the gear box crossmember would do the job but a bit dodgy... With some custom mounts i can make it suitable but i wanted to check what other people thought first.

Suggestions?

It's the front to back movement that is the problem. I can only allow for about 10mm movement either way... it's tight.

Dave

look into the gas strut type of stay rod.

ive seen them on afew high performace cars, but no subarus, all the ones ive seen take left to right movement, not backwards and forwards movement. Im sure something can be fab'd up to suit this type of thing.

Other than that maybe look into harder compound engine mounts. I am using STi group n mounts in my wagon and theyre tough as. Havent broken one yet, and i was breaking standard mounts almost weekly previously.

alex

Thanks for the input Alex. I might look into the gas strut idea further but i don't think space will alow it.

I have never broken an engine mount yet and i doubt the engine mounts will effect the top movement of the engine much. But i will see what i can research on that too. I do have another set of engine mounts that i might try and see if there is any difference.

Are the engine mounts u have broken... where they the square or round ones??

Dave

If you have a look at your rear gearbox mounts, there will be a bit of distance between the upper and lower stopping surfaces and this is what is allowing your engine to move.

Try cutting up some pieces of dense rubber (maybe even an old rubber thong) and wedge them in the mounts to take up the space between the mount.

Difficult to think of things without seeing it up close at the same time but..

SuBaRiNo wrote: Seams that if i beaf up the engine stay rod then the bracket snaps... i beaf that up then the rod snappes.

I'd say continue to beef both of them up until neither snaps, there has to be a point you can eventually reach where this will work. You will likely need to employ Vidler for it, maybe even think about making up a custom bracket to mount to the body maybe not even at the standard firewall point. Possibly abit further down the transmission tunnel? Not sure if there is room without looking. You'd likely have to remove the gearbox to get enough room to make something good though, no easy feat in Hatchy!
If the gearbox mounts are allowing too much movement perhaps you could also make up a custom gearbox crossmember with a proper beefy mount like an EJ one.
http://mrtperformance.com.au/components ... usb013.jpg

Always problems like these arise when you exchange a low torque engine for a much higher torque one .

In the competition world often they convert to a cylindrical bush similar to some suspension bushes but be warned that they don't absorb anything like as much noise/vibration/harshness as the std ones do .

Some Nissan engine mounts have steel ears folded up either side of the "black vanilla slice section" and a rubber pad bonded insided them to limit fore and aft movement .
Check round a good U pull it wreacker to see what other makes do .

I haven't paid much attention to these aeroplane jelly gearbox mounts but filling any gaps limits how much the engine/trans can "float around" .

A .

Some HiPo cars in the USA us chains to hold the engines in place, others use engine plates that bold on the front or back (depending on what one you use) of the engine to solidly mount the engine in place. Others use rebuildable engine mounts with a bolt that goes right through to limit how far the mount can move in HiPo cars.

Marks adaptors have a rebuildable chev style mount that would be an excellent basis for the bolt through style mount.

The other thing you could consider is making your own mounts with leaf spring urethane bushes at the joint but be sure to use high strength steel tube and thick steel plate reinforcing the tube so it cannot bend under stress.

A couple of links that may be of interest to you
http://www.importnut.net/motormount.htm
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/hasport/mounts.html
http://martybugs.net/Pintara/mount.cgi
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthre ... gine+mount

i had this problem in my v8 many yearts ago...every time i launched it i would snap all my mounts off....i went to the semi solid type mount.....bolt thru....never had problems after that....yes you will notice it as it will start to put movement back thru the car but most likely only on very hi revs

i did the bolt thing to but early holden ones had the ears bent over the black vanilla slice bit (lol love that description)

dibs

a tad of topic

hows the car go with the blower .what mods did yo udo to it .ie comprecion exhaust and did u end up using an intercooler.`

dibs

Hi Storm , yep some really good links there .

That one about filling in the air gaps was a trick people used to do to Nissans only we used Stikaflex (sp ?) . A real cheap way to turn production suspension bushes like Stanzas have at the back into expensive Nizmo competition bushings .
I've thought at times of doing this to my RX's rear diff mount bushings (moustache bar bushes) and the one above the nose of the diff .

The cylindrical with through bolt engine mounts are used on VL Commodes to adapt the Nissan RB30E engine into an Olden .

LOL , vanilla slice , we used to ask for "engine mounts" at the canteen where I worked many years ago .

I think chains are a worry because they would snap taut and probably tear the mounting points out of either end - no give .

Engine plates are very extreme , you know theres no give when all you can see is a blur in the rear vision mirror .

Does anyone have pics of L series engine and gearbox mounts on the bench ?

Cheers A .

Thanks guys... im going to look into all of this... i will spend some time looking at my gear box mounts... being further away from the pivit point (gear box mounts). modifications there should make the biggest difference in it moving. I have done the sikaflex idea before when i had busted gear box mounts many years ago but not re-done it since i got new mounts.

Dibs... PM sent on your questions.

Dave

SuBaRiNo wrote:Thanks guys... im going to look into all of this...

So Dave can you tell me how jordan shoes is going to be of any assistance?!

Sorry buddy i just had to (and i'll add to the spamers list if is not there already).
Good luck with this issue, i've not much else to offer you at this stage - sorry.

i have a solution Dave mate. shes in prototype stage ATM (incomplete). i have a new bracket made from plate chequer, some angleiron, some 10mm steel and some extra suspension bushes. ill upload a picture for you, im beefing up all the parts i can, coz ill be doing jumps and and things.
manual gearbox maybe different?? i have a 4EAT from a SVX. (apparrently)




im also planning on a twin supacharga setup in the future. are u running sc14? i wanna run one for each head, and do away with the spider. love ur Shorty too matey. ill have to nip over and see it for myself soon.

Cheers, Rohan

Great idea with the bracket... I wish i had the room for something similar. Unfortunately i have a top mount intercooler and a Battery right where that is... also i have a bucket load of pipes there. Very good theroy though.... i might keep that in mind and take another look.

Yes im running an SC14.

Dave

Your call maxxair but I'd be bracing that rear mount with tie bars from the strut towers .

A .

Isn't that abit overkill? His mount looks like it would be stronger than the standard one anyway.

Dave i'd need to see the car however how much room between the spare wheel plate and the gear box? Depending on the angle i was thinking of a design similar to what maxxair is suggesting however on the underneath side (given your set up on top of this plate).

i dont reckon, however i will cut the overhang/seam off and weld inch angle alont the front edge. i doubt ittl go anywhere.
its gotta be stronger than the stock setup, so if it needs further upgrading later, ill leave it at that. the rod should shear somewhere near the twist im thinking. i oxyed up this stoker at tafe and it came to good use.

^underneath the wheel well^ Genius. i like that thinking. mach 2 maybe.