My02 Ej205 Wrx Setup Into Gen1 S2

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:41 pm

MY02 EJ205 WRX SETUP INTO GEN1 S2

Just about to go down this path and wondering who's has experience in this area or any tips pointers.

Brendan

UPDATE 9-9-08
DONOR CAR GUTTED & ENGINE AND WIRING REMOVED READY FOR LENNY

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 4:07 pm

If it is AUDM delivered then you will have to fit the complete ignition barrel and use the factory key. If it is JDM you won't have this issue. Unless of course you are using an aftermarkte ecu, then disregard what I said above.

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 4:09 pm

ahhh cheers Brett!, yeh its a AUDM wrx sedan.
i would like to rid it of the brant tho

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 8:33 pm

ah does this mean you have one already?
whats the specs

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 8:57 pm

simon wrote off his wrx

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:18 pm

The Brant has nothing to do with the ecu, it is just a secondary immobiliser like any other alarm system and can be removed easily.

The only extra things with a late model engine you have to consider are, as Brett mentioned, the key barrell and key must be used, along with the immibiliser module that is on the steering column and you also need to wire in the fuel pump control module and run an earth from the pump to the module(the pump is originally earthed tot he chassis). The fuel pump also has to be isolated from the bracket in the tank(all std type pumps are anyway).

I've done half a dozen post 2000 engines into G1/2 rewires now(including an 05 drive by wire XT engine into an old wagon). It's all doable but is a lot more work to wire in the extra modules and the ecu itself is also a lot busier. Make sure you have the matching key/immobiliser/ecu for a start.

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:46 am

jzk25 wrote:The Brant has nothing to do with the ecu, it is just a secondary immobiliser like any other alarm system and can be removed easily.

The only extra things with a late model engine you have to consider are, as Brett mentioned, the key barrell and key must be used, along with the immibiliser module that is on the steering column and you also need to wire in the fuel pump control module and run an earth from the pump to the module(the pump is originally earthed tot he chassis). The fuel pump also has to be isolated from the bracket in the tank(all std type pumps are anyway).

I've done half a dozen post 2000 engines into G1/2 rewires now(including an 05 drive by wire XT engine into an old wagon). It's all doable but is a lot more work to wire in the extra modules and the ecu itself is also a lot busier. Make sure you have the matching key/immobiliser/ecu for a start.

i have the whole car. thanks for all your info.
i have pulled the whole harness from the car and have not left anything out

looks like a have a challange ahead

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:12 pm

don't suppose anyone here has the wiring diagrams for the AUDM MY02 WRX

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 2:56 pm

I think I have the file . I check it out later tonight

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 3:14 pm

seagull wrote:I think I have the file . I check it out later tonight

thanks mate, will be much appreciated

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 12:25 pm

engine and harness is now out! my god the wrx looms are massive!! ill get some pix up soon

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 12:54 pm

http://www.northursalia.com/modificatio ... iring.html

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 4:19 pm

cheers, couldnt see AUDM MY01 / 02 GDA listing

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:20 am

I was thinking of running the wrx cross member and rack in the lib also, this all should just bolt in fine? or do i need to change/alter the rack ends?

thanks
brendan

raynman · Post by **raynman** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:47 pm

Is the donor car a turbo shell or NA shell - you will most likely find that the front lower radiator support panel is too high if it is an NA. The turbo radiator panel sits an inch or so lower.

We found this when we built a Legacy RS out of a GX shell

Two options:
- untack the front and buy and weld in a lower radiator support panel
- Custom radiator is a possibility

Don't ask what radiator as we welded in a new radiator support panel.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:54 pm

option 3. cut the guts out of the lower radiator support and weld in a piece of angle section. gives you strength but lowers the radiator enough so it can fit.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:27 pm

forgive me but what does the radiator support panel have to do with the engine crossmember and steering rack? I might have missed something?

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 8:02 am

you are forgiven.

raynman pointed out (correctly) that turbo radiator will be a pain to fit. I gave another option.

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:15 am

vincentvega wrote:option 3. cut the guts out of the lower radiator support and weld in a piece of angle section. gives you strength but lowers the radiator enough so it can fit.

cheers VV i think i will use that so i can runt he wrx rad. ill try to document and photo the steps also.

AndrewT wrote:forgive me but what does the radiator support panel have to do with the engine crossmember and steering rack? I might have missed something?

i was also slightly confused. i will give the crossmember / rack a go this w/e. bit of a waste sitting there doing nothing.

raynman · Post by **raynman** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:22 am

Another option I didn't think about - we didn't do this as it was for a rally car so had to be one or the other (decided to do it properly in the end)

Give it a go with the rack - but you may want to search the subaru forums (like wrx.com.au, rexnet and rslibertyclub) as I have been lead to believe there may be some differences in the racks etc. As you have it at the dismantled stage, sit both together and have a look. GC8 bolts straight in (we had a Ver4 STi in there no issues), but they may have made some changes in the later racks (I heard Spec C fitment was fiddly, so normal would probably be as well)