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Hi all , am going to look at a supposedly very clean RS WAIC complete set up .
The damage looks like being about 300 and the feller reckons the intercooler itself is v clean and the water pump is fine .
Gee said to ask about the IC's water overflow bottle because it makes the fitment neat/clean/factory looking .

I hope to get it all working with a modified spider inlet manifold , modified meaning so it will take a std 3 or 4 plug TPS L MPFI TB .

Feedback welcome , cheers A .

they usually go a fair bit cheaper than that. but if it is in good conditon then it is good value..

I got mine complete for $100, included IC/ pump/ radiator and the factory water lines.

Have a look over on RSlibertyclub.org

Thats where i got mine

same here $100 and its in good nick

Yeah mine was $100ish too.

Make sure you get the pump with it... they are very hard to get on there own and i can't find anything aftermarket that can replace it.

Dave

Dave there would be 12v pumps out there , for example Davies Craig do a small 12v booster pump that has roughly heater hose sized barbs on it .

Back to the RS Lib WAIC set , I am trying to get included the compressor by pass valve and plumbing (hate the "blow off valve term) and if lucky a std RS dump pipe . They don't have a std up pipe which I'm going to need if the TD04goes ahead .

I'm thinking that I should get all the turbo/WAIC/spider conversion issues sorted on the current tired engine which doesn't seem to be going too badly now it's winter . This way the new donk should be one out one in and have it all together in its final form .

Cheers A .

If you cant get an up-pipe to suit your TD04 or whatever VF turbo you use, there are flanges on ebay, like what i used for my conversion.

SuBaRiNo wrote:Yeah mine was $100ish too.

Make sure you get the pump with it... they are very hard to get on there own and i can't find anything aftermarket that can replace it.

Dave

Just for the record........
There is an aftermarket replacement pump with a higher flow rate made locally and sold by MRT http://mrtperformance.com.au/

you can also get a larger radiator to go with this pump. They modify your original radiator. It was listed on their online shop, but not any more. Its still available you just have to ring them.

Thank you but no , I'll go to real rally people who design and manufacture the gold - not just sell it .

Fingers crossed I'll have the complete supposedly clean RS WAIC system late this afternoon , and the recirc pipe/valve and an RS dump/cat pipe and the header bits unfortunately minus the up pipe .

The hard part is going to be getting everything "adjusted" to fit the spider/WAIC/TD04 and dump in one day .
The spider plenum will have to be modified to take an L TB and actually since I have the Vortex spider TB to turbo pipe that can be done initially .
That would give us a full day to fit the IC turbo and dump on a flange modified std header . Does anyone know if the up pipe flange can be slotted and a bolt used to get a TD04 mounted ?
I am hoping the RS dump can be used temporarily and will fit an L RX with a TD04 or VF12 substituted for the std VF2/4/5 .

I guess a VF12 being an RHB5 series would be easiest to fit and I think I know of one going cheap so not too foul a way to join a header to a dump pipe temporarily and have most of it plumb straight in . From memory the air inlet needs to be adapted to point straight up like the EA82T's smaller VF2/4/5 .

Can anyone spot holes in the plan ?

Cheers A .

Well it's in the bag now and is as clean as I wanted it to be . Actually the water to air heat exchanger is wider than I thought it would be and since it is supposed to help an RS make ~ 147 Kw should be good for an EA82T .
I was pleased to find that the WAIC's pump uses a common Subaru plug which makes neat connections fairly painless . I'm not sure yet what to trigger it with but there are a few interesting electrical relay kits around so will look into those .

The Lib RS down/cat pipe is seemingly huge (and heavy) compared to the EA82T's and probably measures 60 odd mm ID . Its dump flange is about as useless as the 82's and really needs an open collector with a forward facing divider .

If I can still get that VF12 for the same money I may use it temporarily until I can come up with something at least rebuildable . The feller who sold me the RS bits claims that the VF12 was a good all rounder on his EJ20 and may work ok on an unchoked fresh EA82T . Just have to get the air inlet facing up and the up flange changed and should all fit together .

Have a good Sunday , cheers A .

As far as triggering the WAIC, im working on a circuit that brings the WAIC on with boost, and keeps it on till the WAIC water temp drops back to a predeterimined level.

so you got all the bits together without much trouble? i had my up pipe bolt cut off and welded back in the extra inch it needed, but you may not have enough room to slot it for a bolt n nut.

i run my waic all the time- i dont see any downsides why not too really.

let me know if u need any help twisting the intake inlet around- ive done it a few times now.

yeah not alot of point to having it switched off anytime except maybe to prolong the life of the pump. Even the RS's don't do that. Although they do run them two different speeds....a common mod among the RS community is to just wire them to run full-bore with ignition.
Mine runs full-bore with ignition. Just using a normal relay.

Actually the factory way sounds like the best one IMO . I'd say they wanted it slow under light load conditions to keep the engine bay heat out of the IC itself . You should only get a charge air temperature increase when the turbo starts to boost .

I'll have to look at the Legacy RS manual to see how they do it , I'd image the primary or low pump speed works via a resistor block and ignition on power supply . It would be a simple matter to have a relay switched bypass of the resistor block for full voltage across the pump .

For the high engine load (heat) I reckon they may have used an airflow meter voltage set point because the computer knows via MAF output voltage how much air the engine is ingesting and therefore what load it's under .
I seem to remember Jaycar doing a kit called the Simple Voltage Switch that can trigger off rising and falling voltage signals and has adjustable hysteresis . With this you could get a signal from either your AFM or TPS outputs and use it to arm the resistor block bypasses relay .

I'm a bit reluctant to use a temperature signal because ambient temperatures vary so much . Also positive manifold pressure can be a real on/off thing that could lead to the pump running in fits and starts . Water really needs to be moving (even if slowly) to getting any cooling from the WAIC radiator and that's why I like the low speed all the time system . For simplicity's sake you could rig a micro switch to the throttle pedal for full pump speed if you don't feel confident with electronics . Even simpler a manual dash switch for high load situations .

No progress yet , I can't do fabrication work at home and I have others who are better than me at doing one off work .
The first thing is to get the spider plenum modified to take a std L MPFI throttle body (by passes all the Vortex TPS BS and can use 3 or 4 plug type L TPS's) and then work out how to mount the WAIC behind it .

The IHI VF12 I knocked back may have fallen through so if anyone has one in good condition I'm looking for one . I can't really do much about a collector till I know if the turbo will be an IHI or a TD04 because the divider plate is different .

While I think about it does anyone know off hand if the captive nut in a L sedans boot floor is the same thread at the spare wheel hold down bolts one ? Would be very convenient not having it crash around in the boot once its banished from the engine bay .

Cheers A .

I think that you are over-complicating this way too much (resister blocks, afm signals, voltage switches, extra buttons on the dashboard). It's a pump, just make sure its running when your motor is and leave it at that. Should be more than enough for a motor that doesn't need an intercooler (as per Subaru) in the first place.
(but I do admire your thoroughness!)

ANY turbocharged engine can benefit from an effective intercooler , Subaru went cheap and nasty with the L series by dropping the compression ratio and not having one .

A resistor block can be as simple as those that used to sit near the coil on contact points distributor ignition systems .
The resistor and the native pump relays can possibly come out of the RS donating the intercooler if it's being wrecked .
Also some Nissan's use staged power supplies to their EFI pumps to keep them quiet at idle and light loads , would possibly work in this application and come in one neat box .

A .

The RS uses a resistor block behind the RHS strut tower to control pump speed. Slow speed is on with ignition (28W from what I've read)) full speed triggered by the ECU when more than 80% throttle is applied (50W) its enough to make the headlights dim when it goes to full speed.

hi guys
Well i mite be on the wrong track here .I just bought a genuine turbo water intercooler.Would (here comes the ?) a airconditioner condencer do for the radiator .As i have a spair in the shed .

To some it mite sound dumb .But i dont know.I need a pump to but not
urgent as the transplant wont be for a wile . Im geting all the parts first.

And a splash of paint wheels,lift, 5 speed and some other personal stuff.

Anyways whats the thoughts here guys.Remember im an old fart to who this stuff is all sorta new to me

dibs

hi guys heres an other ? .what temp does the water in a water cooled intercooler run at . i know it will vary but in general give or take a few degrees.

dibs