Next the EA82 Header upgrade .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:27 pm

I like your pipework, get some grease on it and the metal parts will look factory.

I notice you dont have an intercooler, what do you have planed to go in that vacant space where the spare tyre once lived?

An intercooler gives a very noticeable increase in torque on the old EA82T, especially if your timing is being retarded because of high inlet temps

As for your leaning out problem, i put that down to the engine taking on heaps more air than the factory ECU can account for. I seriously recommend an aftermarket engine management system. Even if it is a crude, old school analogue type (the ones that were tuned with a screwdriver) Microtech LT1 or similar.

Or be daring and go megasquirt, there are EA82T fuel and ignition maps for Megasquirt available on the USMB

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:52 pm

I'm not 100% sure how healthy the std EFI system is from a loom point of view , it's always been sort of acceptable but never really sweet .
The computer I'd like to use is a Vipec which some reckon is a rebadged Link G4 and they are supposed to run really well and have nice tuning strategies .
Some of the later engine management systems have an auto tune mode whereby you connect up a wide band 02 controller and probe , interface it with the ECU and set up an AFR look up table then go drive it . You only need a short time in each cell and it changes the AFR to match you preset look up ratio . That way you get real world driving conditions - and cooling for everything .

Don't know about intercooling at this stage .

Cheers , A .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:14 am

Water to air intercooling is the most stealthy way to do it, no gaping hole in bonnet and no big toothy grin of a FMIC.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:43 am

While your on intercooling Gannon, did you find it to be a benefit all the run time or just when boosting. we know Julian Edgar favours water injection instead in his article due to minimal time inter cooling seems to be required.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:29 pm

Water injection can work ok but the biggie here is even cylinder distribution .
Also it can be expensive for the pump and control system if you want it to work effectively .
Also water doesn't burn and some have found that mixing the water with some form of alcohol means an anti detonant that is a fuel as well .

I'm not averse to front mount intercoolers but you need one that works properly , lots of "made up ones" are junk . The one I had in the front of my Bluebird years ago was a cut down truck core with custom built end tanks .
That cars radiator support panel/bonnet latch mechanism/headlight mounts were totally reconstructed to get that thing in and it was not at all conspicuous . The secret was painting the core and tanks thinly with flat black so it pretended it was a radiator or some other dark thing . It really was overkill for the power that car had , must take a snap of it and sent it to Gannon .
The fella who did my turbo install and made the header did that car as well , does really nice work .
LOL I'm not sure what he would say if I asked him to turn the spiders mouth around to face forward and plumb for a front mount intercooler ...

That aside has anyone had electrical probs with EGR on a flap AFM RX Turbo ? Code 35 I'm getting .

A .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:37 pm

I think Steptoe is the guy to ask, he did some fooling around with his EGR at some stage

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 10:48 pm

Good memory Gannon.

Code 35 or rather for the pedants, 3 - 5 on the flapper style 3 plug ECU is "the EGR sticked to ON or sticked to OFF" (excuse the mid 80's transration)

I found that to disconnect and remove the EGR solenoid inline of the air vacuum control for EGR valve itself had an internal short. Pulled one of a carby manifold that worked and was intact and not the usual broken off bit and it worked clearing the error code. Was really impressed with my first ECU diagnosis of my own car being correct in its fault finding. The EGR solenoid valve appears to be same whether you have a four legged spider, NA efi or carby, or turbo manifold

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:55 am

Yes something to look into , I'm sure in my rubbish tip I must have several vacuum valves because I used to get them to replace ones with the broken plastic barbs - hoses stick and they are usually brittle in the plastic .

I'll test one and fit one that works .
BTW I'm sure I once changed one of the plastic plug fittings because it differed from another V valve I had .

Long story short , I glibly hope fixing the code error stops my car going into mad mode and running stupidly lean when it feels like it .

Cheers A .

Really need aftermarket computer and larger injectors .

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:00 am

Oh yeah, if that is "sticked to open" as one of the options, that' be serving vacuum to your EGR valve between zero and 10 InHg at all temps and all speeds....but you won't see that until you get a vacuum gauge

, or just block off the egr vacuum for a tick to see. Ang how clean is your EGR valve itself. I had an EA81 EGR clogged up almost beyond serviceable.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:41 pm

Yeah well thats thats the thing , the electrical side of things needs to work properly to keep the brain box happy . The physical side well I'll claim the 5th ...

ECU's can be quite dumb , if they see what they're expecting to see they are happy .

A .

PS had only one mad attack on the way home this evening , I'm tempted to fit a non std and possibly adjustable fuel pressure reg just to replace the 22 yr old factory spider one . Most people reckon they either work or they don't , but ?

I also think the dinosaur ignition system is letting me down because the engine characteristics it was designed to work with are now different .

Brain transplant needed .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:54 pm

discopotato03 wrote: Brain transplant needed .

Amen!

As for your fuel pressure regulator, i renewed mine to fix my erratic fuelling and i couldn't get a Subaru one, so i used one from i think it was an N12 Pulsar, it is very similar in shape to the Subaru one, and is rated at 36psi

My fuelling issues ended up being because of shitty injectors. Got em cleaned and all was good.