More busted body/captive nuts - L series

[Smokey]

Now in the rear of the car, in front of the Axel. One broken under-body where the lift block bolts to, ie riped out captive nut. The other side is getting weaker by the day. I've stopped driving it again.

So how have you all fixed this one?




It looks like there is a piece of metal shaped (factory/original) and welded to the underside of the body, where the nut would be. There are also threaded holes that look like there was originally (pre lift) some kind of support bracket too (circled in green). I would like to somehow access this captive nut and weld a plate in there, then add some kind of angled bracket to those threaded holes again for support. The other side of the Axel has a 3 block piece but is separated by a rubber mount. So now that both sides are loose, my axle is shifting side to side.... Scary!!!!

Seriously thinking of picking up a shell and swapping over the goodies. This is getting annoying! There is almost no rust in the car, but the body is letting me down.

Smokey.

[seagull]

I fixed mine by making a male spud that fitted into my hole saw to locate in the threaded hole , say its a 14mm bolt .I used a 25mm hole saw .The then welded a new nut to a peice of flat bar say 50 x 5mm the lenth to cover the area needed to give some suport , removed the body putty off the under side & tig welded the new plate on .If you have a 90 deg bend near this point use a peice of angle iron for more suport .

make a new mounting pad that picks up on all points

seagull

[fredsub]

the rear end may be easier to fix than the front,
In my case I broke the bolts when trying to remove them too.
what you do is cut out a rectangular section enough to remove the captive nuts, then weld new nuts to a new plate of steel, and weld the plate back up to the section cut out.
The cutting out I'm not sure if it can be done with a grinder,maybe a smaller grinder?, I didn't do that job, panel shop used an oxy to cut the section.

As you have a nut ripped out already, I think the same applies, you need to cut them both out, and cut them both out together, that way you have a template to weld the new bolts to a plate - the green circle bit.
the other one,well just cut it out, the surrounding steel looks useless.

It could all easily be made stronger than original, and take time to remove any rust - advantage of fixing yourself.

Hey Smokey these things just keep happening, after a while you can get real good at fixing it too....hmm I haven't had to fix anything on me old L this past year - I'm suspicious, whats she hiding from me ?

[MUDRAT]

Yeah chin up mate, fixing them's better than a new shell because you know they won't break again!

A holesaw a little larger than the captive nut is my weapon of choice.

[Smokey]

Thanks for the ideas guys. Sideways Subaru has sent me some pics, showing this bracket and area "pre lifted". So I now can see the bracket that is originally in this area.




I will either find some of these brackets or cut some of my own. This second Pic shows a lift kit, in red & green is the part that would be used here just not sure which one it would be. block and bracket lift in one. i.e the original bracket will still be used. That looks the best way to fix the situation and strengthen it for future 4 wheelin....

So where do I get one of these parts? may just have to make it up.

I will not be doing the welding this time. I'll get the shop to do it for me, but I will come up with what I want and just get them to do the welding to keep costs down. Reason for professional job is so that its strong and won't break again, fingers crossed.

Smokey

[Smokey]

WWWhhhhooooooooooo Im fixed and wheeeeelin again.
Nothing quite like a broken Soob fixed again. Drives smooth, no squeaks and groans. I have been limping around since march when this all started.

Almost 1 month to get this particular issue fixed. Had it welded professionally, nice big 6mm black steel 50x50mm ish plates on both sides. Not gonna break there again anytime soon. One side had been riped out and the other side just cracked, drilled the holes and had to weld a nut to one side of a plate. The other side just had to drill a hole and nut stayed where it was, not going anywhere now.

Feels so good hey! Did all the work at the shop myself and just had the dude do the welding. Cost too much considering but hey its fixed and he did some nice clean welds. Picked up the plate brackets that my car was missing at pick & payless for $5 so was happy there. Nothing new P&PL, nice bumper replacement bar but its bent into many angles it not supposed to be.

Anyway, so I'm back on the road for now. Thanks again to everyone for their wonderful help and not only those who have added to this thread but all who use this forum. Its gives us amateurs the guts and support we need to tackle the jobs we do, that normally would make all this fun too damn expensive!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers,

Smokey.