biggest fans i can fit

spike · Post by **spike** » Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:01 pm

well summers coming and as some of you might know ea82s dont like summer.

im hoping to get a quick answer to this cause im going hunting for what i want tommorow morning
anyone know what the biggest combination of fans i can fit on the standard L series radiator??

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:21 pm

Fit two 12" thermo fans in between the radiator and engine. Take a measurement before you buy the fans just incase. But for instance, the Davies Craig brand ones are nice and thin and even fit if you have an EJ engine (EJ engines leave you with less clearance here).

That being said, make sure your water pump, radiator, hoses and thermostat are in good condition as a priority to spending money on fans. If they are, then an EA82 L series should survive an Australian summer perfectly fine with the standard fans.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 5:27 am

The factory belt driven fan moves far more air than any electric fan will (provided the viscous clutch is working)

You could wire the auxiliary fan with a manual override switch so you can turn it on when sitting in traffic or driving slow.

Remember that simply driving faster than about 60km/h pushes more air through the radiator than both fans can

spike · Post by **spike** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 12:17 pm

i went and bought my fans, 2 electric ones off an EA81 touring wagon.

i plan to mount these with the over ride and with a much better sealing sysem.
water pump seems fine, i will be flushing the radiator when i take it out to put my custom shroud on, will also flush the block aswell. and refill with a new (custom) mixed coolant.

if that cant do it well i start thinking again

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 5:00 pm

All I used that did the job really well before the EJ conversion (they don't fit now) was the standard EA82 air con thermo fan and the thin AC thermo fan from an MY touring wagon. Easy to fit, easy to wire in. I've got an Auto/Off/On cab switch for normal driving, river crossings and when in the slow stuff.

I really need to get onto a better setup, the single one that's not mounted well isn't really keeping up in the slow stuff - the restricted air flow under the bonnet doesn't help either. I'll be looking at a set of rear facing vents in the bonnet in the future... I've seen some fellas from the Victorian 4wd subi club with a set mount on their bonnets and they swear by them.

Cheers

Bennie

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 6:07 pm

El_Freddo wrote:/On cab switch for normal driving, river crossings and when in the slow stuff.

I really need to get onto a better setup, the single one that's not mounted well isn't really keeping up in the slow stuff - the restricted air flow under the bonnet doesn't help either. I'll be looking at a set of rear facing vents in the bonnet in the future... I've seen some fellas from the Victorian 4wd subi club with a set mount on their bonnets and they swear by them.

Cheers

Bennie

I would love to know if these actually work , would you consider taking some under bonnet and coolant temps at various conditions, before and after install , I've always wondered if they were effective , would fog the windscreen on a cold day ???

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 6:27 pm

FROG wrote:I would love to know if these actually work , would you consider taking some under bonnet and coolant temps at various conditions, before and after install , I've always wondered if they were effective , would fog the windscreen on a cold day ???

Can do, will be a while away yet! Looking at finding some at the wreckers - have to get to the wreckers first... With what should I measure the temps with?

The two fellas that had them on their subi's - an MY wagon and an L turbo wagon. They reckon in traffic and the slow stuff offroad you can see the heat shimmering out through the vents. I reckon that's gotta be better than the heat being trapped under the bonnet.

Cheers

Bennie

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 7:15 pm

El_Freddo wrote:I really need to get onto a better setup, the single one that's not mounted well isn't really keeping up in the slow stuff - the restricted air flow under the bonnet doesn't help either. I'll be looking at a set of rear facing vents in the bonnet in the future... I've seen some fellas from the Victorian 4wd subi club with a set mount on their bonnets and they swear by them.

Spacers under the bonnet hinges do much the same thing, and are removable.

I did it to create clearance for a second battery, but like to think it helps cooling airflow too.

Dane.

spike · Post by **spike** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:37 pm

problem with lifting the rear of the of the bonet is it creates a low pressure zone behind in front of the windscreen, this sucks air backwards under the bonnet.

vents might work but id put some fans on them as well maybe small conputer fans or somthing

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:32 pm

spike wrote:problem with lifting the rear of the of the bonet is it creates a low pressure zone behind in front of the windscreen, this sucks air backwards under the bonnet.

vents might work but id put some fans on them as well maybe small conputer fans or somthing

Precisely the effect you get behind any sort of scoop, vent, bonnet protector, bullbar etc. Anyway, inside the engine bay is a hot high pressure zone - you won't send air backwards through it.

Dane.

spike · Post by **spike** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:57 pm

GOD wrote:Precisely the effect you get behind any sort of scoop, vent, bonnet protector, bullbar etc. Anyway, inside the engine bay is a hot high pressure zone - you won't send air backwards through it.

Dane.

not exactly all of them
the scoop like the WRX scoop does not cause a low pressure zone its aim is to force air into the engine bay, it does this most time.

a vent (if its the sort im thinking about) lets hot high pressure air out, but only the pressure differentual pushes it out and it wont be that high at low speed high temperature, say after a tough off road section, the engine will in theory be an evactuated low pressure zone.

bull bars dont produce negative pressure they simply stop air getting to he radiator.

by using a proper shroud where the air is pulled though it, see most race cars(buggies and open wheelers dont count) im not a fan of forcing air though ust on principal, by sucking the air through with a solid shoud it evacuates the air from the radiator vicinity at any speed.

somone made a comment earlier about simple driving faster to push the air though so yes i know it makes sence, and at that speed the shrouds and fans would be, dare i say it a hinderance, however thinking about it by going from a large area to a small area it should increase air speed. anyway goign faster somtimes isnt possible, cops probably wont like the idea of giving an excuse of "sorry sir i was trying to keep my car cool".