Running part time 4wd box in 4wd constantly?

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 4:13 pm

Awkward to word this.

If the front driveshafts are removed, is the centre locking mechanism sufficiently strong and lubricated enough to run the car in basically a RWD configuration?
It'll be behind an NA EFI EA82 so no great ball bearer of a motor.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:15 pm

A mate of mine drove his MY wagon like that for some months and a lot of it was highway driving .

Lubrication shouldn't be an issue because the riser gears that take drive from the back of the countershaft to the short rear output shaft get plenty of splash feed .
BTY that shortish rear output shaft has a simple dog clutch to engage the rear drive and needs no extra lubrication .

A pre loved NA EA82 shouldn't give the system too much of a hard time unless you abuse it .

Cheers A .

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 8:09 pm

Thanks.

My main thing is that I'm aiming to have a small box trailer pretty much permanently attached, so its mainly a traction thing.

Pity you can't get small RWD vehicles anymore:rolleyes:

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:02 pm

"She'll be right!" You'll love the sideways action with this setup! Just make sure you don't knock the 4wd lever into 2wd

Traction shouldn't be an issue when in front wheel drive unless you've got the trailer unbalanced with a lot of tow ball weight. I've towed a smaller campervan, canoe and had the subi full loaded with the nose in the air. There were no traction issues unless on a steep incline. If its wet you'll be fine driving around in 4wd for a bit as one or more of the wheels will release the bind on the wet surface easily enough. If it were me, this is how I'd go about towing, but then again, I love my 4wd too

Cheers

Bennie

wrxer · Post by **wrxer** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:38 am

dont forget you need the cv outers in the front to hold the front bearings together. and that moustache bar that locates the rear diff is pretty flimsy and will prob need bracing up

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:01 pm

I knew about the front outers, but I hadn't thought about the rear diff hanger.

Guess they're not designed for this kind of purpose.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 5:52 pm

BS!
take a cvout, and flog it hard. its EXTREMELY TOUGH. ive 'durability tested' mine for many months. you have my word. the rears stronger than the front cvs. dont be scared.
lol(Just make sure you don't knock the 4wd lever into 2wd;) )2true. fking annoying hey.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:12 pm

Its not the rear CVs that are the issue - its the rear diff hanger maxxair. It's not hard to strengthen it up. Just take it off and weld some more steel to it for strength. A piece of flat bar at 90 degrees along the length of the moustache bar would help I reckon.

It'll do it, but keep an eye on how its holding up.

Cheers

Bennie

tony · Post by **tony** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:39 am

my gutless n/a ea82 loses traction at the front with the least provocation. towing a trailer in the wet is a nightmare.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:30 pm

thats true, ive seen many bent diffhagers also.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:42 pm

Yeah the rear should withstand it fine. Definitely a good idea to brace the "moustache bar" tho. Easy way is to get a second one and weld it to the first one without the end bits, doubles the thickness.

I'm running EJ20turbo, 29" tyres, CLSD rear diff on my wagon. Havn't pushed it too hard yet (no burnouts or offroading) but it's not showing any signs of breaking yet after a fair few kms on the road.