Radiator suggestion for EJ22 in L series.

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guyph_01
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Radiator suggestion for EJ22 in L series.

Post by guyph_01 » Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:59 am

Hi guys,

SO im putting the EJ22 in an L series. I would like to know, Do i really need to put a bigger radiator(Lib rad) to suit the engine? or would the L series radiator be ok?

Would the engine run better with the matching radiator(Lib). Im planning to go on long trips with the car:P

Also was thinking, since i dont really want to cut and weld to fit the Lib radiator i was wandering if anyone had thought or use a similar bigger rad from another subi or from another car that would fit exactly in the space that would not require any cutting etc?

thx
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GOD
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Post by GOD » Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:08 pm

I put a new standard L series radiator in my wagon with the EJ18, and it seems to work fine. Couldn't find any others the right shape.

The ideal option would probably be a three row L series rad with the end tanks modified to suit EJ hoses.

Dane.
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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Sat Jun 13, 2009 5:37 pm

GOD wrote:
The ideal option would probably be a three row L series rad with the end tanks modified to suit EJ hoses.

Dane.

What he said!!!! the L rads hardly keep up with the ea82!!

bryan
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stamp_licker
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Post by stamp_licker » Sun Jun 14, 2009 3:43 pm

I had no dramas with a standard l series radiator behind my ej22 l also was running the auto through the rad as well.From memory something out of a pulsar fitted as well.
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Xtreme_RX
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Post by Xtreme_RX » Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:04 pm

As stamp_licker said the standard radiator will work well.
I am running a Turbo Liberty radiator & it works really really well.....
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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:06 pm

I don't think the original L radiator is up to scratch - it's inferior to the standard Lib ones you get in EJ22's so really it's below spec. If it's brand new it'd be alright tho I suppose/
Two real options for best practice;

1 - run a Liberty EJ22 radiator. This requires a fair bit of modification to the lower radiator support of your car, cutting and welding etc.
2 - run an L radiator frame but get a twin or triple core installed (they use a Liberty one with a few rows taken out) and holden Gemini or toyota Tarago brass end tanks. A decent radiator shop should be able to make one up for about 500 bucks.

Thermo fan wise you can run Davies Craig 10" ones - these are perfect. Or you can use cheaper ones - the key is getting very thin ones cause space is limited.

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guyph_01
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Post by guyph_01 » Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:29 am

poufffffff...., theres no way im paying that much... I think i'll run the l series for now with a lower temp thermostat. Get two fan running constant or something until i get it licensed. once its licensed, I'll then cut to suit the Lib rad or try and look for an alternative radiator.

Would it be possible to cut and weld if the EJ22 is in the car? or would that be a hell of a job?

comments??:P
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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:39 am

Nah it'd be do-able just abit more arkward. SubaFury Matt's car is setup like this, check his out or seach for a few pics, I'm sure he's posted some up.
Certainly the custom radiator method is a rather expensive one (depending where u go) but it's tried and tested. Both my L's run one of these and didn't require any modification of the car body at all.
But yeah the Libbo radiator is also a good option, definitely cheaper and still properly up to spec for an EJ motor.

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guyph_01
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Post by guyph_01 » Mon Jun 15, 2009 11:07 am

thx mate.:) let me know for that auto Lib starter
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Subafury
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Post by Subafury » Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:10 pm

plus remember if you pop your radiator down the track(like i did) its a hell of a lot easier to get a lib replacement then fix a custom $500 jobbie.
worth the little extra effort i reckon. also remember the std L series rads have different outlet and inlet sizes.
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Post by AndrewT » Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:11 pm

Altho a custom job with brass tanks is less likely to pop than a Lib one which has old plastic tanks (unless its a new one). Also the plastic tanks are usually not repairable but brass ones can be.

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