Anyone used an EJ Turbos Water reservoir on an EA82T ?

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 12:14 pm

Hi all , Ive been thinking about this business of running a TD04 on an EA82 and I can't help feeling that these turbos need to sit a bit higher than the native IHI VF2/4 .

The trouble is that when you do this the turbos water outlet ends up being higher than the water return tube to the cavity below the thermostat .
This is bad from a hot shut down scenerio because any steam bubbles get caught in the high point or "trap" and then the coolant won't thermosyphon through the turbos water jacket . I suspect this is the reason why some people have issues with TD04's on EA82s .

If you look at a turbo EJ you can see that the water reservoir is the highest point in the cooling system and therefore any steam bubbles end up here where they won't cause any dramas .

I'm wondering if a same or similar reservoir was fitted to an EA82T (will be spider type in my case) the dramas can be overcome .
The radiator cap would need to be replaced with a sealing non pressure relief type cap or at least a higher pressure one that on the reservoir/high point .

I not sure if anyones done this before on a turbo EA82 and I'm curious to know what you all think .

Cheers A .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:02 pm

When i turn my car off, i can hear water moving through the turbo, unsure if its actual flowing water or just the water boiling, but it can last for over 5 minutes.

I like your idea, i might try it too

BlackMale · Post by **BlackMale** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:35 pm

I think that the answer to your initial question may (unfortunately) be a no.

discopotato03 wrote:This is bad from a hot shut down scenerio

As you should know you should not have a "hot shut down" for the reasons you outlined above. I would think that as long as you allow the engine to cool back down again it should be fine (despite the high point).

That being said based on Suparoo's comments

Suparoo wrote:When i turn my car off, i can hear water moving through the turbo, unsure if its actual flowing water or just the water boiling, but it can last for over 5 minutes.

It could just be me. I have NEVER heard this from my engine(s) and i would prob panic if i heard it. This to me sounds like the engine is being shut down while still to hot. That's my 2c (however we all know i have been incorrect before).

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:34 pm

yeah i agree with blackmales comments. mine used to boil/gurgle a little after shut down.

putting one of those small resevior tanks would be a great idea to compensate for it. go for it disco!

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:10 am

The reason why I'm asking is partly because I recently replaced the top turbo water return hose and if you look closely the steel return pipe to the cooling systems thermostat bowl area is actually slightly downhill - not the best situation .

By hot shut downs I mean drive car like sane individual and idle for a moment before shut down , not drive like maniac and shut down immediately .
This notion that you have to idle a turbo car for 4-5 minutes before shutting it down is ridiculous - particularly with a water cooled turbocharger , if you'd been bouncing your engine off it's red line/rev limiter then sure drive the the thing around sedately for a few k's to let the exhaust gas temperature cool down but I wouldn't be doing a regular 5 minute ritual .

Does anyone know if you can still buy sealing radiator caps that used to be in kits for aftermarket pressurised type over flow reservoirs ?
If I fit a "high mount" reservoir with its own pressure relief cap I'm going to have to do something about the std L radiator cap to seal the rad shut at that point .

Cheers A .

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:35 pm

not familiar with EJ stuff, but thinking about the EA to current falcon coolant reservoir system (20 years testing ? ) what if you could place a falcon style tank at highest point under bonnet as they have an air bubble/steam bleed off the thermostat housing to the reservoir tank and water circulates through this bottle - have the turbo outlet go to the reservoir carrying with it any air. have radiator place seal up original radiator neck or fit a screw in fitting and let reservoir take car of things - someting to think about ?

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 11:19 am

I just had a look at mine.

If we could adapt the coolant pipe coming out of the TD04 (the TF035 is the same) so that it comes under the compressor outlet, the coolant line will be in the same place it was with the VF4 (factory EA82T turbo) and join up with the metal pipe going to the thermostat housing.

This is the TF035 on my engine with the coolant line going over the compressor outlet

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 2:47 pm

Yes I reckon I'd be going under the compressor housing outlet if I could get the thing pointing level .

Actually I would be interested to know if the old turbos water fittings (banjos and bolts) fit the TD04 because in the past people have hinted that they have .

BTW is that the std EA82T CAT I spy on the downpipe ? If it is and you get the chance have a look at an early Liberty RS downpipe . The pipe size is big on the RS compared to the L and you'd think the cat would be newer and less restrictive . Also both downpipes are almost exactly the same shape and the turbo flange should suit a TF035/TD04 - I think ? Must check this because I have an RS down pipe and a TD04 now .

Cheers A .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:34 pm

I believe that the banjo fitting of a VF4 uses the same hollow bolt size and fits the turbo in that way, but i think from memory, the piece of pipe that is attached to the banjo bolt fouls on the compressor housing. I think it is gonna be a custom job.

If you get one made, i'll have one too.

Yes that is the original cat. When i swapped turbos, i was pushed for time cos this is my only car, so i just made it fit so i could drive to work on the following monday.

Im in the process of using another 2.25" mandrel bend in place of the stock cat and putting a newer cat of a larger car (commodore/falcon) after the 2nd bend underneath the car.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:27 pm

I haven't played with a Mitsu turbo yet , I cant see why you couldn't remove the tin joiner piece betwen the banjos and point them wherever you like .
Garrett and Hitachi turbos have the banjos and bolts on opposide sides of the turbos center housing and they stay put when the bolt is tightened .

BTW DON'T overtighten those banjo bolts or they buckle the banjo and won't seal . Its also a good idea to anneal (sp?) those copper washers so they are soft and conform to the bolt and banjo surfaces .

I'm still hunting for the allusive JDM EJ205 TD04HL because I want its larger turbine - actually I want its 6cm HL type turbine housing because HL turbines are easy enough to find .

Can someone tell me what era EJ205 WRX is ?

A .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:13 pm

I didnt really play around that much with the water fittings cos i was pushed for time. What i had worked.

But i'd still like to change it. I might have to polish up on my brazing skills

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:09 am

i can see a straight barbed fitting replacing the top banjo fitting to get a lower water outlet level for starters so long as you can find a matching thread to suit turbo.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:18 am

That can be done too though its a good idea to distance the rubber hose from turbo heat , you can get thermal wrap or tube to allow the hose to survive in a sometimes searing environment .

Cheers A .