Halogen Headlight upgrade?? ea81
Halogen Headlight upgrade?? ea81
Anyone done the Halogen Headlight upgrade on an ea81 subi (single headlight)
I got the conversion kit and done some readings with the mulitmeter.... it appears that the 82 and up ea81 subies are negative triggered at the head light... does this sound right??
Also does anyone know for sure which pin is meant to do what on the back of a Hallegon H4 globe? eg: whats earth and what ones are the power feeds for hight and low beam??
Im wanting to rewire these using relays and upgraded cabling to give the best possible results... can anyone put some light on this for me.
Dave
I got the conversion kit and done some readings with the mulitmeter.... it appears that the 82 and up ea81 subies are negative triggered at the head light... does this sound right??
Also does anyone know for sure which pin is meant to do what on the back of a Hallegon H4 globe? eg: whats earth and what ones are the power feeds for hight and low beam??
Im wanting to rewire these using relays and upgraded cabling to give the best possible results... can anyone put some light on this for me.
Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Yep, the globe has a permanent positive voltage feed, and it is the negative that is switched.
If you get your multimeter and put the negative probe on the body, you will be able to find the positive feed terminal in that 3 pin connector with the positive multimeter probe.
Once you have found the positive terminal, then put the pos probe of the multimeter on the positive battery post, and find the switched terminals in the 3 pin connector (you will have to turn the ignition on) with the neg multimeter probe
hope that makes sense
If you get your multimeter and put the negative probe on the body, you will be able to find the positive feed terminal in that 3 pin connector with the positive multimeter probe.
Once you have found the positive terminal, then put the pos probe of the multimeter on the positive battery post, and find the switched terminals in the 3 pin connector (you will have to turn the ignition on) with the neg multimeter probe
hope that makes sense
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Dave I did this conv to my old MY wagon, and yes the H4 pin out is different to the old sealed beam plugs. I cut and spliced my wiring in the wiring loom behind the RHS headlight between battery to the New Era double fused relay that you can get from Super cheap. Relayed both Low and High beams.
'03 Forester X, stock standard for now.
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)
I changed over to Halogen headlights on the Brumby over a year ago and am very happy with the result. Didn't do the job myself as I'm a real numpty when it comes to electrical work.
Got an auto electrician to swap the sealed beams with IPF inserts and fit an IPF loom. Also fitted 130/100 watt bulbs, and driving at night is now quite comfortable. The IPF inserts have a slightly elevated beam on the left hand side which throws the light a little further along the road shoulder, and low beam has a distinct leading edge that makes adjusting the light beam quite easy.
The Brumby's headlight setup is very effective and I don't need to fit driving lights.
Jack
Got an auto electrician to swap the sealed beams with IPF inserts and fit an IPF loom. Also fitted 130/100 watt bulbs, and driving at night is now quite comfortable. The IPF inserts have a slightly elevated beam on the left hand side which throws the light a little further along the road shoulder, and low beam has a distinct leading edge that makes adjusting the light beam quite easy.
The Brumby's headlight setup is very effective and I don't need to fit driving lights.
Jack
1999 Outback (some mods)
1989 Brumby (more mods)

Subaru - Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive
1989 Brumby (more mods)

Subaru - Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive
Yes HUGE improvement, like new car lights. I used Narva 5" headlight kit with the 65/100W globes as supplied, but blew these with a faulty regulator. Just replaced these with the standard 55/65W and added 100W spotties for open road driving with relay etc. Narva kit is about $130 for the pair. Round light gives a square beam, with a good spread.subaruby wrote:I am considering doing this conversion on my wagon, did you notice a big difference in the lights?
At the time my brother with his quad lights on his Brumby was quite jealous.
'03 Forester X, stock standard for now.
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)
Wiring for dummies
This is the link to read then...
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... elays.html
Dave, I have just done this too- huge improvement over the quad light set up on the WB 1.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... elays.html
Dave, I have just done this too- huge improvement over the quad light set up on the WB 1.
1989 Subaru WonderBrumby II
EJ22 Dual range AWD lifted, widened and much happier now thanks very much.
1991 L Series wagon, white and perfectly normal apart from the ticking, no I think that is normal.
Jet boat..webbered EA81 with a hybrid tin dish welded and glued to it.
EJ22 Dual range AWD lifted, widened and much happier now thanks very much.
1991 L Series wagon, white and perfectly normal apart from the ticking, no I think that is normal.
Jet boat..webbered EA81 with a hybrid tin dish welded and glued to it.
Thanks for the input guys. Subanator any chance you can be more specific on what you had to change... I assume the H4s are not negative triggered... it makes more sence to me that one pin would be for Earth and the 2 other pins are meant to be the power (one high beam one low beam).
The wiring and relaying is not a problem just need the correct pin outs and what should be going to each pin on the back of the H4 globes. At a guess i would say the center horizonatal pin would be earth... and power feeds either side. Any help on this??
Dave
The wiring and relaying is not a problem just need the correct pin outs and what should be going to each pin on the back of the H4 globes. At a guess i would say the center horizonatal pin would be earth... and power feeds either side. Any help on this??
Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.
seriously look into HID's as well, i just put them in my liberty and they made a massive difference, probably the best mod you can do i reckon..i wasn't expecting them to work as well as they do, the high beam does f/a now..
alex
alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
Best way I can answer this, before you change anything, get your meter and check what wire is earthed (ohms). Then operate the lights high and low and measure voltage to see which is high and low.SuBaRiNo wrote:Thanks for the input guys. Subanator any chance you can be more specific on what you had to change... I assume the H4s are not negative triggered... it makes more sence to me that one pin would be for Earth and the 2 other pins are meant to be the power (one high beam one low beam).
The wiring and relaying is not a problem just need the correct pin outs and what should be going to each pin on the back of the H4 globes. At a guess i would say the center horizonatal pin would be earth... and power feeds either side. Any help on this??
Dave
Then grab the new light with globe inserted, and I assume you have new H4 plugs with flying leads. Try to measure between with the meter, ground is common between filaments, one reading across the 3 wires in all combinations will be high, medium and lower resistance. Discount the high reading, this will be across both filaments, the medium one will be high beam and the low reading is low. Now try this across you battery to check and see if this works. You will have to cut off your original plug an splice the new plugs to suit - and the pins will be different.
'03 Forester X, stock standard for now.
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)
Thanks mate... i should be able to work it out by that.
Dave
Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.
Yeah i think im on board now. The wiring in my car is different from yours but using the information you have provided i can transfer it to my set up. Thanks again Mate... might have to get onto this on Saturday.
Dave
Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.
Follow up question... are the lights meant to be so either the High or Low filament light... or when your on high beam both filaments are meant to light??
Dave
Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.
yer like 90Brumby says they change filaments on every H4 gobe that ive seen
but when doin the kinda flick thing with the lever..as in pull it forward for a flash instead of engaging them they seem to keep both lit up
thats if ya know wt i mean
and im talkin off experience from a Lancer a Corrolla a Pajero and an Outback that we have but i always see it at work when testing lights out on cars
but when doin the kinda flick thing with the lever..as in pull it forward for a flash instead of engaging them they seem to keep both lit up
thats if ya know wt i mean
and im talkin off experience from a Lancer a Corrolla a Pajero and an Outback that we have but i always see it at work when testing lights out on cars
Wagon is no longer....

The Subaru Wacky Workshop -All About the WA Boys

Only one beam comes on at at time, otherwise I reckon you would shorten the life of the globe by overheating by running both beams. If this is whats happening, you have the wiring wrong and the ground is on another terminal in the H4 pin out.SuBaRiNo wrote:Follow up question... are the lights meant to be so either the High or Low filament light... or when your on high beam both filaments are meant to light??
Dave
'03 Forester X, stock standard for now.
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)
'89 EA82T Touring Wagon, 5-speed D/R, 14" alloy wheels, bullbar. (Past ride)
'81 MY wagon, 3" lift, 5-speed D/R, Weber, 14x27" tyres. (Past ride)