IS IT POSSIBLE TO RUN THE FULL LIB HARNESS INTO AN L SERIES?

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chriSTIan
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IS IT POSSIBLE TO RUN THE FULL LIB HARNESS INTO AN L SERIES?

Post by chriSTIan » Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:57 am

Looking at ej22 for my L,am wondering if the whole harness will fit easily and if it can run all the lights,wiper motor,etc...
I want to use the steering column with all the switches as well as the gauges.
Is that possible?
Is there enough room under the dash for all the wiring/computer?
Not worried about a/c yet.
What about the rear harness? Can the L harness be spliced in the lib??
Thanx
CC :arrow:

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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Sat Oct 08, 2005 12:21 am

Anything is possible... but DAMN thats a lot of hard work. I wouldn't even attempt to pay someone to do it... could take a very long time. If you can;t do it yourself i wouldn't bother.

Chances are a lot of electrical devices are wired up differently from an L to a lib. For example the wipers would most probly have a different number of wires running to and from the motor and the switch.

Might be easy to buy a lib and wedge L series body pannels on.

Dave

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PeeJay
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Post by PeeJay » Sat Oct 08, 2005 11:40 am

When you see how many thousands of wires there are in a lib you will quickly change your mind - I know I did and I'm good at electrical stuff!! 8O

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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:30 pm

I agree. I dare u to take it into an auto electrics and ask them about it... be aware... you may make him cry.

Dave

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legacytt
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EJ Wiring

Post by legacytt » Sat Oct 08, 2005 8:32 pm

I have done this and it isn't a major drama, time wise no worse than stripping out all the motor loom and splicing it in. It doesn't take up much space and you can put all the dash wiring into the L dash and use the Lib cluster. You will need the whole body loom aswell. As you say you can use all the wiper/light stalks. It is easy to get the fuel guage working and the indicators and brake lights just need the L plugs soldered on. Obviously you get cruise etc aswell. If you want to run the auto I would say this is the best way to do it as it is all there ready to go.
Gen 1 Legacy GT 3inch lift and 28's

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chriSTIan
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q

Post by chriSTIan » Mon Oct 10, 2005 12:19 am

Hey legacytt,thanx for your positive input,
i will be doing it myself and i have all the parts to do it so i figured that it must be possible.
I will be running a manual gearbox and no cruise,and it's all going in a std L with no e/w or c/l so all i want is the bare essential and a/c.
Is your a/c working?
What g/box are you running?
I am thinking hi/low lib
Christian

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BaronVonChickenPants
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Post by BaronVonChickenPants » Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:19 am

In my opinion unless you manage to find one with L series low range the dual range lib box is a bit of a lost cause, the low range is only a 10% reduction.

I was thinking of hunting one down for my EJ conversion but since discovering this I'm not going out of my way to find one.

Jordan.

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legacytt
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ej wiring

Post by legacytt » Mon Oct 10, 2005 12:12 pm

I am using an auto. The L series central locking works with a minor fiddle. I haven't got the AC going, more due to not having time to match all the piping up.
Gen 1 Legacy GT 3inch lift and 28's

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chriSTIan
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Post by chriSTIan » Mon Oct 10, 2005 5:04 pm

How easy is it to convert the lib awd box with l series hi/low range?
What about forrester?outback dual range?
What's the reduction on the L box?
Thanx

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BaronVonChickenPants
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Post by BaronVonChickenPants » Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:42 pm

I think the L series low rang is 1.54:1 as opposed to the Liberty's 1.1:1

Which by my vague calculations equals roughly a 50% reduction.

Can't help you with the other questions, sorry.

Jordan

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jzk25
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Post by jzk25 » Sun Oct 16, 2005 1:26 pm

While it is certainly possible to change the whole harness as Legacytt has done I would suggest that it is by no means the easiest way. It is easier and probably cheaper over all to have the Liberty harness stripped and prepared and then simply wiring it in to the L power supplies. Sunspares charge $300 to have a harness fully stripped, all relays wired in and all the necessary wires labelled and a detailed explanation supplied. You only need minimal wiring skills to get the engine to fire up(no more than getting a stereo to work) and we provide support should you need it when installing the wiring. The harness is tested prior to posting it out also.

There was a thread on the dead forum detailing the L low range into Lib box swap but it'll be long gone now I guess. Short answer is that it is possible and very effective although really not necessary if the car is used for beach work. You don't even need dual range with an EJ22 for the beach because they have mountains of torque compared to an EA82.

IMO constant 4WD is an absolute necessity for en EJ equipped L or MY that is used on the road as well as offroad. The excessive wheelspin will soon lose it's novelty when used day to day especially in the wet.

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chriSTIan
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q

Post by chriSTIan » Mon Oct 17, 2005 2:37 pm

I still think that an untouched,unbutchered full harness conversion is preferable,i also drive a legacy turbo that some d**k has butchered(harness) and its a nightmare to track the intermittent problems,just trying to simplify the whole conversion.

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jzk25
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Post by jzk25 » Tue Oct 18, 2005 9:08 am

I can guarantee you that it is easier to trace faults on a seperate engine harness than throwing the whole lot in and trying to get the rest of the car to work. I've seen it all and this is the best(only) way to do it.

I have 50 odd subaru cars with engine conversions running around and have done the wiring for dozens of VW, Brumby and LS EJ conversions and never had a failure, this is the best way to do it.

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BaronVonChickenPants
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Post by BaronVonChickenPants » Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:10 am

I'll tell you what that $300 package is damn tempting, I'll have another go at my nightmare of a butchered loom if that fails I'll give it some serious thought.

Jordan.

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jzk25
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Post by jzk25 » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:11 pm

Most people think the same way, it takes a whole lot of worry out of a conversion to have the wiring sorted for you. $300 covers any EJ harness of any age including turbos, twin turbos and all the late stuff with immobilizers. I start an engine on the ground with the harness after it is prepped and do a select monitor check on it to ensure there is no problems. Battery power and Ignition power will start the engine if it has fuel supply.

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stinky
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Post by stinky » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:29 pm

I have a EJ18 engine/harness to go in my MY ... I may need to take you up on this as I'm a total noob. If I get it done by you guys, will it be blatently obvious what plugs into where on the engine ?

Sounds like it could save me a lot of potential trouble.

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BaronVonChickenPants
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Post by BaronVonChickenPants » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:58 pm

Me thinks I'm going to have to go for it. This is my loom, half of it is missing:
Image
I'd be lucky if theres more than a dozen wires that actually make it to a connector, then chances are the other side of the connector is butchered as well.

THEN assuming I get that figured out I have this to contend with:
Image

I think it's a lost cause, what do you think?

Al how long does it take to prepare a loom, it's a 2 connector EJ18 ecu going into an 84 MY touring wagon.

Also, congrats on the birth of you son, it's the greatest feeling in the world isn't it :D

Jordan.

PS: Sorry about the hijack Christian

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stinky
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Post by stinky » Tue Oct 18, 2005 4:04 pm

Can Baron and I get a bulk discount? :)

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jzk25
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Post by jzk25 » Tue Oct 18, 2005 9:22 pm

You will have to bin that harness and buy another one, not worth the effort. $150 will get you a harness.

It's pretty obvious where the plugs go on the engine, especially with an EJ18 or 16. You can't mix them up anyway, they will only plug into there mating connector.

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