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Does anyone know the factory subaru L series central locking wiring that goes to the drivers door. There are 4 wires that go to the drivers door actuator. I THOUGHT one was constant positive +, another was constant negative - and the other 2 (both using the negative supply to activate) are for unlock and lock.

its dierct driven. if youare doing a keyless setup its easier to add an actuator to it.

what kit do youhave?

how much do these sets cost roughly?, im thinking of doing keyless entry soonish.

subi wrote:how much do these sets cost roughly?, im thinking of doing keyless entry soonish.

$99.

see:

http://www.dynamco.com.au/cgi-bin/produ ... E-CLR-TX90

thats the one I sell. in the case of an L you will need a $15 actuator as well.

just had a read- heaps of features ey, seems like a decent price too.
im not too concerned about it now but ill def look into it later.

soz for hijacking ur thread a little aussiewagon

I have the factory c/lock on my touring wagon. I bought a keyless kit - its an add on for for cars with factory c/locking - it uses the 2 negative (unlock and lock wires) and the common (i think thats the constant negative) wire fitted to most vehicles. Replacing the factory drivers actuator will that still hook up to the rest of the doors/tailgate? Is the factory c/lock actuator on L series drivers door power driven or ONLY powered when manual locking/unlocking for the sake of trying to wire a keyless kit for it?

aussiewagon wrote:I have the factory c/lock on my touring wagon. I bought a keyless kit - its an add on for for cars with factory c/locking - it uses the 2 negative (unlock and lock wires) and the common (i think thats the constant negative) wire fitted to most vehicles. Replacing the factory drivers actuator will that still hook up to the rest of the doors/tailgate? Is the factory c/lock actuator on L series drivers door power driven or ONLY powered when manual locking/unlocking for the sake of trying to wire a keyless kit for it?

which kit (brand pls.)

you will need to tie the actuator ONTO the lock rod that feeds the OEM switch. that will drive the other 4 doors and the added actuator will drive the drivers door.(which in turn will work the switch in that door and make teh rest work.)

give me a bit more info and I'll help you with it.

(in my case mine will have a remote start on it with window roll up!)

The kit i have is called: cruise-a-roo. I bought it off ebay and is designed for cars with factory c/locking it has 3 wires that go to the factory drivers door actuator: unlock, lock, and common wire (on the instructions) - I assume these 3 are negatively powered much like a door light switch. I believe the factory wiring on the L - series is totally different. Sorry about the delayed response - no longer have regular access to internet.

ok if it has a C, NC,NO set of contacts (or wires.) do this:

C- Motor
NC- GND
NO -+12v

do both the same way and add an actuator to it. if I get to mine before you reply I'll show you where to place the actuator.

actually if you have the diagram handy scan it and mail it to
[email protected]
and I'll help you with it.

Finially got the remote/keyless central locking kit which I added to the factory c/locking on my touring wagon - thanks to chris_rogers help (see above) - I just added an acuator to the drivers door - fitted below the existing factory drivers door acuator on the side part of the door - now i cant fully wind down drivers window, so i will have to find a very small acuator to fit better one day. So now i just simply press to unlock or lock with the added bonus of flashing indicators as well. Kit was purchased off Ebay: CRUZE A ROO $49 delivered, Yeh Ha.

actuator is in the wrong spot. I can put a normal sized one is there and the window drops fully. good to see you have it sorted though.