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Well, my old wagon had an electrical fault for the last time .

So out came the sidecutters and stanley knife and boom,



Eeeeewwwwlll, what a friggn mess. 30 years of new stereo's, rigged fuses, twitched and wrapped connections, ground loops, patched wiring, addon features, power window fixes and general lack of any care taken to keep it neat and professional have resulted in very odd behaviour of some things. Final straw was wednesday when half my dash stopped working, the indicator would only indicate a right turn and the motors spark going away every 60 odd seconds. Enough was enough. Out it all comes and time for some new wiring.

Will keep posted what I do. Maybe one day someone may find the info usefull. Probably going to be a bit different from factory. Cruise control will be added, along with an accesspack (work thing). I already pissed off the thermo fan circuit in favour of a switch. Might reinstall it with both this time, just incase I forget to flick it on. other small things like that.

Regards

Doug

Well that looks rather permanent

Have fun putting in the new loom and the accesspack, so you will have to log in when you want to start up and log out when you shut down. what about a shock watch? probably not a good idea if you go 4WD

you may want to hold onto those blue diodes in the loom the can be worth a pretty penny.

TOONGA

It happens , don't it, from being in a hurry to add that electrical item and get out of that organ cramping posture under the dash. Ya take a direct path with an odd coloured bit of wire , ending up too short to follow the rest of the loom.....
I swear next car I alter at all is gonna get a new fuse box added in somewhere central with three sections BATTERY + , ACC + and IGN + and it is going to be central to any electrical mods. The Fuji looms are so well made, joined, wrapped and wrapped again yet to find internal fault in any of mine. Will never use those hardware and auto elec style crimp terminals or squeeze splice connectors. It is either genuine wiring and connectors, solder and heatshrink or those oven style crimps for 240V stuff Utilux H953? and their No62 crimp tool. Hope this is not the demise of the beast Doug !

steptoe wrote: Will never use those hardware and auto elec style crimp terminals or squeeze splice connectors. It is either genuine wiring and connectors, solder and heatshrink or those oven style crimps for 240V stuff Utilux H953? and their No62 crimp tool. Hope this is not the demise of the beast Doug !

I second that, crimp connectors are rubbish. You can crush em as hard as you can only for the wire to drop straight out again or stay in and have a crap connection that you can't see. Solder and heat shrink all the way.

Very permanent, Had to be to stop me taking shortcuts .

Holding onto the whole loom for a bit, connectors may come in handy.

Demize of the beast?? Demize of the Beast!! Hell no! Id drive this thing till it dies! Little bit of copper aint gonna stop me

Deffinately going to be a solder, shrinkwrap job. Crimp connectors are great (if crimped correctly), but as soon as the copper oxidises, you get funny things like current where it shouldnt be. Its things like that that destroy digi dash's and turn your headlights on when you put your wipers on .

I do assemble and manifacture electronics for a living though. This is going to be a cake walk as far as Im conserned. One thing that wiring does take is time though. I dont really like making looms, but I do have a secret wepon.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOcpOVO3pxQ

Vid made by my boss. One awesome tool for sure, though I probably wont use it. Not enough wires the same length to justify .

What would be cool is a more modern digi dash. LCD displays, glass cockpit style .

Will probably get started some time during the week. havent decided if ive gutted it enough .

Regards

Doug

The 'orgasmatron' eh ?!

Careful how you use it, may become an OH&S thing Or is it WH&S now ?

steptoe wrote:The 'orgasmatron' eh ?!

Careful how you use it, may become an OH&S thing Or is it WH&S now ?

Yes. Highly recommended not sticking anything in it but wire .

Seriously though. Sit down, cut a piece of wire eactly the right length, strip the insulation off both ends exxactly the right length, then twist both ends. Then do it another 100 times. The orgasmatron turns a 1hour job out in around 2 min.

Regards

Doug

Well, finally got some time to do some wiring in the old girl. stripped out a few more bits of crappy wire, removed some relays (starter relay had been replaced at one stage and is hanging, yes, hanging from its wires under the spare wheel bracket ) I will relocate it down with the rest of the relays on top of the wheel arch. Made up a new engine loom, the old one was brittle and beyond redemption. Pissed off the stock connector in favor of one with some more wires. They will come in handy for future projects.



Still need to cover it in some heat shielding but that can be done later.

Just going to get some heavy duty cable for the main power feed and will continue after that.

Regards

Doug

Such a complex wiring loom the "MYs" have. my brumby has 3 wires that I use on the engine. I think there are more wires going to the alternator

TOONGA

Yeah, only really need 1 wire on this beast for the disty. The rest are optional .

Actually I do have a question now. I noticed some time ago that my oil gauge light stopped working. A quick inspect at the time showed the wire had gotten torn off (During some harmless bush bashing ). My original dash was the digi and didnt have the gauge, just a light. This analog one has a gauge. Anyone know where I can pick up a progressive sender for the ea81?

Regards

Doug

this is the one the wagon should have, it is the same as the vortex one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IMC-802-49006-3 ... 5d&vxp=mtr

or this one with a smaller pitch on the thread

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor- ... 10&vxp=mtr

this one is a bit cheaper

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Beck-Arnley- ... 5649565076

TOONGA

That looks like what I got. So is there a difference for the light vs gauge sender?

Regards

Doug

The light sender is just a switch that turns the light on when there's no pressure. I assume the gauge sender sends varying voltage to the gauge depending on pressure?

Well I was under the impression that they had different senders. By the sounds of it they are the same. Il just wire it up to the gauge and see what happens . After all, i did drive it around for the last 10k without it.

Regards

Doug

You should have the big one in the first auction it is a "pressure sender" and works on the pressure of the oil causing variable voltage. the smaller ones are pressure switches, which as SB said turn on when the oil pressure is low normally under 2 psi. (you probably know all this anyway)

If you had the light in the digital dash it means somewhere on the engine or on the oil pump is another sender. I was under the impression the digital dash had an oil guage as well.

TOONGA

Hmm, deffinately got the big gumpy unit on the side so thats good enough for me. And im pretty sure its varies resistance, not voltage. I could be wrong though . something like a 100ohm swing. I can test it if you like?

Regards

Doug

Yes sorry variable resistance not voltage... 3 children screaming in the background on a Sunday afternoon made for a typo

TOONGA

Not an issue Toonga, I knew what you meant . If it put out a variable voltage, it would need 2 wires. One for ign and one for signal, unless it produced its own voltage, but I highly doubt that. Too complex for just oil pressure.

Kids screaming in the back yard? sounds like you need some naptime,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AF_nfazQaek




Regards

Doug

Hey Doug, I should have the larger style one that suits the pressure gauge, if you need one?

I donno yet. Might just wire it up and see what happens. Worst case scenario is it doesn't work . Will hopefully get all the headlights and indicators rewired tonight. Tempted to make led indicators and stop lights .

Maybe later.

Regards

Doug