The ***ALL NEW*** AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Gannon wrote: ... Well I started out with this ... Which worked too well and was like having a highbay light in the car and was way too bright ...

Overkill I'd say ... ... Did you try just a single panel ?

Gannon wrote: ... I put this down to poor design as the current limiting resistors were 47 ohms which gives 50ma at 12v, but it should have been 100 ohm resistors for the normal 14v car voltage ...

Were'nt they originally designed as a single panel ? - or did you mod them & put two togehter ? ...

Gannon wrote: ... So I went in another direction ... I'll go get a shot of it in the car ...

How warm does it get ? + yes some 'lit' up shot's would be good ...

This is the finished product in the car


Steptoe Im guessing the LED downlight you are talking about is a MR16 style like this

The driver in them is usually the same constant current driver that I pictured above so voltage shouldnt be an issue, its more likely a manufacturing issue of putting say a 500mA driver in a light with with LEDs only rated for 350mA.

I have 20 of these cheap LEDs in my house and they have been going strong for over 2 years. It all comes down to where ya get em from

All this talk of LED's and too much current, reminds me of the all LED traffic lights springing up everywhere...and slowly dying row by row. I dunno about other states, but in Adelaide there are alot of traffic lights now where the big globe and lens has been replaced by an LED array. Only thing is they neglected to change the power supplies over so now the old bulb power is going into the new LED arrays, killing them off. You can tell how long they've been in by the rows of LED's that have died, saw one today that had every second row kaput!

think I only just tossed it last nights garbage - was the same size fitting for low volt downlight MR16 ? but was covered in a shipload of ~3 mm white LEDS, the dead ones went a mouse pee brown stain look

Gannon wrote:
Steptoe Im guessing the LED downlight you are talking about is a MR16 style like this

The driver in them is usually the same constant current driver that I pictured above so voltage shouldnt be an issue, its more likely a manufacturing issue of putting say a 500mA driver in a light with with LEDs only rated for 350mA.

I have 20 of these cheap LEDs in my house and they have been going strong for over 2 years. It all comes down to where ya get em from

Is there much difference in the lighting in respect of intensity and color with those LED bulbs Gannon?

steptoe wrote:covered in a shipload of ~3 mm white LEDS, the dead ones went a mouse pee brown stain look

Yeah they are crap, no constant current driver in them, just a resistor, which is probably why they died

Subyroo wrote:Is there much difference in the lighting in respect of intensity and color with those LED bulbs Gannon?

There are usually 2 or 3 colours to choose from, warm white 3000k, which is about the same yellowness of a regular halogen, neutral white 5000k, which is a really white light like my interior light above, and then there is cool white 7000k which is a bluish colour
They are only about 1/2 to 2/3 the brightness of a regular halogen, but seeing as they use about 1/10 the power of a halogen they are worth it. The tricky bit is finding a transformer that will run them. Iron core transformers actually waste more power than the LED itself, but most electronic transformers wont work with LED because the LED doesnt draw enough to power to satisfy the transformer, they end up just flickering. There are a few LED drivers on the market but finding one that works with dimmers is tricky

Silverbullet wrote: Only thing is they neglected to change the power supplies over so now the old bulb power is going into the new LED arrays, killing them off.

I doubt it. The LED arrays will have their own constant current power supply, otherwise they would have gone up in a puff of smoke the moment they applied the power. The problem is that they are running the LEDs at full power to achieve full brightness but because there are slight variations in manufacturing either the LEDs themselves or in the power supply, they are failing prematurely

Did a bit of a search & found this :

http://www.ozled.com.au/

Might be of interest ...

Guess what didn't go out in the garbage, but should have ....



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
still works.

Seen one normal low voltage as an interior light bulb in an old 76 Maz 323 !

Make good brake light bulbs ??

Can you show us with the cree at night time - how well does it show?

We did have MR16 12v in the kitchen but causes interference with our TV so replaced to 240v.
Cheers
AP

these look like they could be good for rear bulbs in the sudie sedans...
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo ... angle/162/
I wonder how bright they are, compared to a bulb?
and would you get white, or red?

They look pretty neat but why the need for 90deg on the sedans

Well if you used the normal ones that have a lot of LED's stacked around them like a hairbrush, you would only see about 1/3 of them and I reckon it would not look very bright.

I was also thinking of putting LED's in the dash ( pin type ) ...

Next project though ...

Bantum wrote:I was also thinking of putting LED's in the dash ( pin type ) ...

Next project though ...

Nah don't. I looked into this some time ago. LEDs don't have a very nice light dispersion and your cluster will have spots where the LEDs are really bright and other spots where it'll be very dull.

Sent from my Motorola RAZR HD

Best thing to make LED's give light in a uniform manner is to lightly rub the top and sides with fine sandpaper to make the surface opaque. They emit light much more like a normal globe at a slight expense of light output

This is what I was thinking of in a T10 ...



It has a diffuser lens of sorts - will have to try it out & see how it looks ...

G'day
I have put some similar in the larger gauges in a Kenworth truck & they worked fine. There is some that are specifically made to go in the dash.

Cheers

Speaking of Dash Items, I just found this neat looking switch :





It could be used for all manner of things, I'm thinking of spotlights, etc ...

Edit : Reload image ...

Just waiting on new globes from HK, but I had made the mistake on my last lot of LED globes for the Indicators, Brakes, and Reverse lights, HOWEVER these globes created error which included faster flickering of indicators and the globes were not as bright as the original.

$30 poorer for the auto sparky to tell me that I needed load resistors http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Load-Resisto ... 342&_uhb=1 .

I have since reviewed and bought on Ebay Error Free LED Globes (CANBUS) you will need to lookup CANBUS ba15s led globes on Ebay, click HERE
These are the Globes you will be looking for in most L Series.

I will post some pics and a review once they go in, I have also purchased some T10 LED wedges for my plate No lights.

Cheers WayneO.............