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I should put this up on the wiki page + get some better shots of it ...

Anybody have some ?

Cheers, Bantum ...

Bantum,
I have just applied a variation to your fix to my 1987 Brumby. The turn indicators stopped self cancelling. On dismantling it was, as you suggested, that a groove had been worn in peaks of the plastic cylinder which catch the pawl to cancel the lamp.

I bought a 300mm length of 3mm brass angle for $18!!!. The only difference was that I glued it to the cylinder. It was not clear to me why melting the plastic would provide adhesion. I used Selley's plastic glue which is supposed to stick any plastic including PE, PVE and PVC to metal.

We will have to see how long it lasts.

Auster

Hi Auster,

Great that you have found this helpful - the main reason for using heat is to "glue" the angle to plastic & to make sure the top of ridge is aligned in the original position, mainly because if it sticks out too much it will flip the return unintentionally as you turn the wheel & not center correctly ...

I've done it that way for both of my cars & hasn't come loose yet ....

A bit steep on the cost there - where did you get it from ? ... You should post some pics of your mod as well ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

I got some brass flat bar from a hobby store, I think it was about $3 - the angle stuff was milled and super expensive like what Auster purchased. The flat bar bent fine to what I wanted. It worked well - I'll have to work out if Redback needs the same treatment before RWC

Cheers

Bennie

This post is to be read as part of Bantum's post and mine on doctoring the turn indicators. Mine are still going OK. When I glued the angle onto the cylinder it was about 1mm proud. But it does not foul the system and so far works well. I have enclosed a picture which clearly shows the groove worn in the cylinderhttp://www.ausubaru.com.au/images/attach/jpg.gif. Bantum's pic was a bit out of focus.


This is the glue I usedhttp://www.ausubaru.com.au/attachment.php?atta ... 1394695103

Thanks auster,

I will post images up in the sequence ...

Good to see it works either way ...

Cheers, bantum ...

auster wrote:http://www.ausubaru.com.au/images/attach/jpg.gif. Bantum's pic was a bit out of focus.


attachment.php?attachmentid=4391&d=1394695103

Auster - with links to attached images use the bb code for images -

The first link is not an image - it's something that doesn't come up as an image...

Try it next time

Cheers

Bennie

Can anyone tell me the parts name for the "Plastic Thingy"?

here the other image

Close as I can get without a part catalogue is a : 'Turn Signal Return Spigot'

Any futher advances ? - An actual Part No. would be great ( aka : Frog ? )

Add : found this for an entire NOS unit ...





Part No: 78311230 from here : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-Suba ... 19f07f872c

Cheers, Bantum ...

Thanks for the info Bantum, trying to source the Brass Angle here on the Gold Coast, closest I can find so far is up in Brisbane.
Regards Buddyboy.

That ebay seller has had that indicator stalk assembly listed for months now, I keep coming so close to buying it but $300 is alot to fork out...waiting for mister fisterbottom to snap it up soon as he sees this

Buddyboy that brass angle is used in model building so you should be able to find it in model shops that sell balsa wood and glue, bits and pieces like that.

Nice guide. Although I wonder if the stock plastic part is available new? They do seem to last a good 30odd years

Bantum wrote:Close as I can get without a part catalogue is a : 'Turn Signal Return Spigot'

Any futher advances ? - An actual Part No. would be great ( aka : Frog ? )
Cheers, Bantum ...

I think you will find you cannot (or could not) actually buy the plastic part separately. It is the whole combo switch or nothing, so there will be no part number.

I prefer the early Gen 1's as they did not use the plastic piece, rather they have two metal roll pins located at 12:00 and 6:00 O'Clock position on the back of the steering wheel.

I knew a plastic welder who designed his own tool specifically for repairing that part, was quite profitable during the '80s and '90s for him! Looks like he has now retired.

Yep, I had my eye on that as well - never seen a part number for the single item either ...

If someone does end up grabbing it - they should help us a copy the relevant bits so we can 3D print new ones ...

Add : You could just redo the plastic bit via adding more melted plastic, but you would only end up back in same situation when it's worn out again ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

I'd be using some flat bar - this is how I did mine. If you get the right angle stuff you can't bend it as it's a milled piece of metal, plus it cost about 4 times the price of the flat bar! The flat bar is much easier to work with, I've got loads of it for future projects, just need to find it!

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo, can you remember where you got it from?
Regards
Buddyboy

Any good Hobby store with racks of metal / plastic should have suitable brass flat stock ( Toy World comes to mind ) ...

Failing that, go online & search in your area for Hobby stores. The best to checkout are ones that do aircraft, as they usually stock tubes etc. for wings 'n things ...

Hope that helps ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Buddyboy wrote:El_Freddo, can you remember where you got it from?

Local hobby store. Talk to the dude and find out what can be bent and what can't. It shouldn't be anymore than $10 (expensive end) - they might even have a small cut off out back if they do repair or custom work - ask

Bantum wrote:Any good Hobby store with racks of metal / plastic should have suitable brass flat stock ( Toy World comes to mind ) ...

Dunno about Toy World, but any hobby (especially with RC gear) store worth their weight will have the brass

Cheers

Bennie

Ahrg - Sorry that was meant to be 'Mr Toys' ( you know the one in the City ) ...

Cheers, Bantum ...