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Now the L series is back in action I can concentrate on getting the MY passed for rego.
My issue is the key comes out while the ignition is in the run position which apparently is illegal.
I know from an earlier post of mine people have suggested rebuilding the switch mechanism etc but I only have till thursday of next week to sort this out.
What I have learnt so far is the MY touring wagon which has the tilt adjustable steering column has a much different ignition switch to, say, a Brumby with a solid steering column. This has stuffed me up totally as I was simply going to get a Brumby ignition switch and that was that.
Long story short I bought a Brumby switch, noted it was very different so I am now stuffed on where to get a correct switch and key. I have been advised by our local locksmith I could get a new coded key cut (if I had the key code or I take the drivers door lock into the locksmith as it apparently has the key code on it) but this will cost between $80 to $90.
Bit steep and a last option.
Is anyone familar with the tilt steering column ignition switch on the MY's and is it similar to something else. What about the L series. from the outside they look kind of something like it.
I am going to look at how both the Brumby and the tilt steering MY key mechanisms are fixed into the barrell with a view to swap just this bit but I dont know how I will go with this.
Any other quick thoughts, I really need to move on this ?

Still reckon your locksmith is your friend, can't you feel him in your back pocket right at your wallet Mine were done while I waited not long at all - first time they were not busy.

Our locksmith wont touch the lock itself just make a coded key and then they wont guarantee the new coded key will solve the problem of the key pulling out anyway.
Definately wouldnt be happy paying $90 and finding it didnt work.
I am trying to understand just what is the part of the lock that holds the key in place once the lock is turned. I have one key which has been previously cut which is in very good condition and it is trying to stay in place, I can feel it catching internally in the lock so finding how it is kept in place and making a quick mod is something I am still looking at. I didnt want to butcher the Brumby lock just to get this info but may have to.
I have not had much to do with locksmiths in the past except cutting general keys etc but they seem to know how to charge.

you need to look back in for sales I think, Richard parting out a four door MY in Victoria, can't think of his username, I had a number for him somewhere. Overnight bag in the post......

All fixed.
Like my experiences in different types of L series clocks and how to fix them I should put something together on how to "marry up" MY ignition switches that have tilt steering columns and Brumby fixed steering column ignition switches.
Anyway quick answer, I took the key tumbler assembly out of the Brumby and put it into the MY tumbler assembly. I have lined up the wreckers to check out the Brumby door locks, glove box lock and the fuel filler lock. If they are all the same as the ignition lock I have I will buy them and put them into the MY and then the only lock that is different will be the rear door (obviously as a Brumby does not have a rear door it has a tail gate and not lock ?)
Going to chuck the revampted ignition switch in and make sure the stop light switch is working and all will be OK for another year for the MY.
I would suggest everyone checks how many keys/weights etc they have on their key ring as I think this added weight in my case has contributed to the excessive wearing of the original MY ignition.
P.S. I am glad I did not go the route of the $80-$90 coded key as this definately would not have worked. My original tumbler internals were totally worn out and a new key would have been absolutely pointless.
If anyone wants further info let me know.