Spot light wiring

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guyph_01
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Spot light wiring

Post by guyph_01 » Thu Jul 15, 2010 2:28 pm

Hi guys,

I want to install four spotties on a roof rack on top of the car. I would like to know what would be the best way to do the wiring so that so that the spotties work at their best.

Also any ideas on when to pass the wires would be good:)

thx
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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:10 pm

All you need to do for spot lights is to use a basic relay picking up +12v from your battery, using the highbeam wire as the trigger. Run it through a toggle switch on your dash so you can either have them come on with highbeams or just stay off.
Just go have a look at the car to choose a logical path for the wires. I'd advise against down the middle of the windscreen.

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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:52 pm

And PLEASE put a bloody fuse in the wiring or your car might catch on fire.

Also... im prety sure forward facing spotlights (in WA) on your roof is illegal due to the height... If their not, im 100% sure they must be wired to a switch on the dash and only operate when your car is on high beam.

Andrew is right... to do it properly u need a relay too. Running the cable through the door seal is your only real "hole-free" option but they could result in water leake or wind noise. A drilled hole in the roof sealed up is the other option. There are a few other tricks of the trade to running the cables out but nothing that can be explained with words.

Dave
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GOD
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Post by GOD » Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:36 pm

I'd even go for two relays (with a pair of lights on each). Four 130W globes at 13V will pull 40 amps, which is right at the limit for the average relay.

As for making them work their best, solder all connections (crimp terminals onto wires, then solder them), and heatshrink everything to limit corrosion (which will degrade performance later on), and keep power wires as short as possible (i.e. a direct route battery - relays - lights).

Dane.
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El_Freddo
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Driving lights wiring diagram

Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:32 pm

I know in Victoria roof mounted lights are illegal as the law states that you have to be looking into the beam of any forward facing lights from above - this eliminates blinding oncoming vehicles when moving through gently undulating terrain - or just as you come over a hill before you see the oncoming vehicle's lights...

Anyway, here's my driving light wiring diagram - I'm with GOD - use two relays to keep these things running properly:

Image

Hope this helps, it works for my 3 spotties across the front of Ruby Scoo - using two relays. It really needs two fuses as the fuse holder I have is a little dodgy and needs replacing. Yes dave, I'll get onto that!

Cheers

Bennie
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GOD
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Post by GOD » Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:58 pm

Legal? No officer, they're not lights, they're just there for decoration ;). As long as you don't shine them at anyone, and you're not a wanker when you get pulled over, it'll be fine.

And I remembered the other reason for using two relays - switching a pair on at a time means you don't drop a big load onto the alternator all at once. Probably not a huge deal, but it makes me feel better setting up my cars that way.

Dane.
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guyph_01
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Post by guyph_01 » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:20 pm

Ok, i want to be able to turn the two outer and the two inner ones at separate times.
So should i do two circuits like elfredo diagram? Do i use two fuse or just the one.
I also have a radio that i want to hook up. Can i use one fuse for all three? What amp should the fuse be? As i have bought this distributor that has one built in fuse and then separates.
Or do i need three separate fuses?

thx
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Thinking of going on holidays on a little paradise island, Check out http://www.dodolidays.com

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:37 pm

Do Bennie's circuit twice, with a separate fuse, switch and relay for each. I'd recommend adding a fuse box like this:
http://www.ktcables.com.au/_product/_pr ... G_1139.jpg
You can get them in different sizes, and they end up much neater (thus less cop-baiting and easier to fix later on) than having a hundred individual fuse holders dangling all over the place. My wagon has one in the cab for all the inside electronics, and one in the engine bay for lights, rad fans, etc. Get a big fuse box to allow the addition of more circuits later.

Use a third fuse for the radio. Is it a CB? Use a 3 or 5 amp fuse. A stereo will need a 15A.

For the lights, fuse requirement depends on the wattage of the globes you're using. I=P/V, where I=current drawn in Amps, P=power in Watts and V=voltage=12V for cars. eg a 100W globe in each of a pair of lights = 200W total. Current I = 200W/12V = 16.7A. Choose the next highest fuse rating available, which will be 20A.

Dane.
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guyph_01
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Post by guyph_01 » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:46 pm

What if i want to be able to turn the spotties on even if the car is off. Is that a good idea? What would be the advantage or disadvantage of this except (will kill bat if left on) and how can i achieve this? Do i need to run a live wire or is there one in the car already?

thx
The project, EJ22 --->>> EJ25 Quad CAM:D touring wagon
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Thinking of going on holidays on a little paradise island, Check out http://www.dodolidays.com

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:59 pm

You should be able to use a three position switch. The common terminal on the switch will go to the relay, one of the other terminals will go to high beam ground, and the third will go straight to ground. The other side of the relay coil will need to have constant, rather than ignition switched 12V+.

I have a feeling I've missed something though. Someone can correct me, or I'll rethink when I'm awake.

Dane.
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guyph_01
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Post by guyph_01 » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:13 am

Ok thx guys,

I have learnt a lot from this, i will give it a go tomorrow:)
The project, EJ22 --->>> EJ25 Quad CAM:D touring wagon
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Thinking of going on holidays on a little paradise island, Check out http://www.dodolidays.com

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:18 am

guyph_01 wrote:Ok thx guys,

I have learnt a lot from this, i will give it a go tomorrow:)
See the edits to my last post? THere's a good chance I was talking shit.

Good luck with it.

Dane.
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guyph_01
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Post by guyph_01 » Sun Jul 18, 2010 2:15 pm

Ok so today I took a long look at the car to decide where i could pass the wires. At first I though of passing them under the windscreen rubber seal( mine's got the after market rubber seal with the lip. but was not to happy with the idea and then a sudden strike of genius hit me.
I got the idea of passing the wire under the side gutter trim. Its perfect. I used the double wire(red/black) runs under the roof rack, falls in the gutter, runs along the gutter under the plastic trim and goes under the top part or the guard and gets in the engine bay.
You cant see any wire, I'm a genius:P

Anyway i bought two relays. the pins are:

PIN 30= Power in
PIN 85= Earth
PIN 86= Switch
PIN 87= Power out ACC1


Ok, correct me if i'm wrong:
PIN30 is the wire that goes to the fuse and battery.
PIN85 Goes to the body
PIN86 Goes to a switch connected to ignition power
PIN87 Goes to the Spots


THX:)
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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:17 pm

Basically yes your right.

Pin 30 = Battery Pos (+) via a fuse
Pin 85 = Earth (-)
Pin 86 = High beam Pos (+) wire via switch
Pin 87 = Pos of Spot lights

If there are 2 Pin 87s you can run one to each spot light.

All this changes depending on how the high beam headlight wire is triggered. Some are Earth (-) triggered.

Other spot light wire to Earth (-).

Dave
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thelman
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Post by thelman » Sun May 15, 2011 11:05 pm

can you post up some pics of your wiring guyph?

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guyph_01
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Post by guyph_01 » Sun May 15, 2011 11:26 pm

What do you mean by wiring? the way its laid and where it goes or how the spotties look on the car?

Have a look at my build thread. Plenty of pics of them on the car:)
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Thinking of going on holidays on a little paradise island, Check out http://www.dodolidays.com

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Post by thelman » Mon May 16, 2011 9:27 pm

what page mate? only have limited time on my phone

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Post by D3V1L » Mon May 16, 2011 10:29 pm

road laws in wa state, 6 foreward facing lights total, and must be in pairs.

above 1600mm they are classed as a work light, and can be dismissed if your not rude to mr plod.

davo
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Post by thelman » Tue May 17, 2011 7:20 am

the way its laid from the roof rack into the engine bay

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Post by El_Freddo » Sun May 22, 2011 12:02 am

D3V1L wrote:road laws in wa state, 6 foreward facing lights total, and must be in pairs.

above 1600mm they are classed as a work light, and can be dismissed if your not rude to mr plod.
Same over here, but I haven't heard about that work light bit...

Cheers

Bennie
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