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Hello Folks!
I hope the following experience I have just had can be of help to others out there.

My no2 MV/Brumby truck Scruffy decided not to run once fired up....let go of the key and when it returns to run position (from the start position) the engine just cut out...puzzling.

Anyhowz I just happened to have a spare steering column complete with full ignition switch assembly on it.
I removed the electrical contact switch from the back and had a look at the terminals only to find under close inspection - a hair line crack on the brass pin that's for the starter motor power.
I showed this to my father (who is a lifelong and very experienced electrical engineer) he explained that the crack would mean a loss of grip to the copper stud which is molded into the body of the switch.
This loss of grip would be critical to the connection / circuit.
He got out his soldering gear and whilst I removed the 'offending' switch from Scruffy he made good the crack by doing a careful soldering job to the spare switch.
removing the underdash panel only, I then dropped the steering column by the 2 bolts to gain sufficient room to get in behind the switch to remove the 2 small retaining screws so quite quick and easy to get to the offending switch.
I swapped over the parts and re- assembled.
Scruffy lit up straight away and settled down to tick over as if there had never been a problem.

The switch from scruffy was also cracked exactly the same so a repair was immediately effected to this switch.The reason for a second repair being my no1 Truck tended to want the ignition key to be really pressed over hard to initiate it to fire up.
5 minutes later the repaired switch was in the no1 Truck and ...... I now only have to touch the key and the engine fires up immediately!
It seems to be far more willing to start......
I suspect that this is a common fault and that the terminal that cracks is always the same one that takes the pressure from the action of the key pressing against it.
Soldering the connection back is a easy and solid fix and should save cash by you not having to replace or even contemplate a starter button.
Have a look at the image and look close and you can just see the offending hairline crack that has caused the problem.
I'll post up the image of the reparied one so as Dad's done it for me.
Hope this helps !
Cheers
Giles.

hi Giles the pic is back of ignition ? from time to time my brumby wont start , let go of key tern again and of it goes didn't know why this may be what is wrong thanks

Anyone who has an L series with a dodgy clock: This is basically the same thing. Bust the clock out, pop the back off it and carefully solder up any tired looking/cracked solder joints. Plug it back in to test if it is working or not. If not closely check the joints - and also check the fuse in the fuse box above the driver's feet.

My accessories on the ignition went the same way, a tap or a wiggle of that area and the stereo would fire up and stay on without a problem after that. I ended up replacing the switch for a good one. All going well now.

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:Anyone who has an L series with a dodgy clock: This is basically the same thing. Bust the clock out, pop the back off it and carefully solder up any tired looking/cracked solder joints. Plug it back in to test if it is working or not. If not closely check the joints - and also check the fuse in the fuse box above the driver's feet.

My accessories on the ignition went the same way, a tap or a wiggle of that area and the stereo would fire up and stay on without a problem after that. I ended up replacing the switch for a good one. All going well now.

Cheers

Bennie

i did this to my clock..the solders where dry and cracked. It fixed it for a while, then the big resister on the back decided to kick the bucket. Gave up and found another clock

alex

Just as a side note...
That symptom, stopping when you release the key, is often the ballast resistor on points vehicles.
Daza.

uCb wrote:hi Giles the pic is back of ignition ? from time to time my brumby wont start , let go of key tern again and of it goes didn't know why this may be what is wrong thanks

Yes it is the back - and its the electrical switch part that can be unscrewed from the key/lock front end.
Dad informs that if there were to be any crack then 12v will not gap across. Even a hair line crack.
Probably accounts for the reason why I have had to press the key hard to (make the gap up) to get the engine to turn.
Both my trucks leap into life now by simply 'breathing' on the key!

Here is an image of my spare ignition switch - now repaired.

Question?
Anyone out there know how I can re-spell Brunby to Brumby in the Thread title? May help people to find in the future ...... Daft me made a spelling error!


Cheers
Giles.

may just be me but didn't notice error couldn't worry to much my self

someone with powers bestowed upon them can fix it - not me

I'm lazy, I just jacked a push button switch onto the ignition wires and set it into the plastic panel beside the ignition switch. The push button has a rubber boot over it. Turn the ignition switch on and if the starter doesn't start, specially on a cold morning, press the push button and away you go. Push button will not work if ignition off. I might fix it properly one day.

I second the reply from Daza re the same symptoms being from a blown ballast resistor. Very hard to drive with the left hand, hold the key mid way between the accessories and start with the right hand and change gears with the left hand when not necessary to hold the steering wheel.
Glad your problem was eventually found though.

Cliff R wrote:I second the reply from Daza re the same symptoms being from a blown ballast resistor. Very hard to drive with the left hand, hold the key mid way between the accessories and start with the right hand and change gears with the left hand when not necessary to hold the steering wheel.
Glad your problem was eventually found though.

Hey you could make it easy on yourself.
1 - Bite the steering wheel and then to steer just lean left or right, just remember to avoid pot holes in the road,:mrgreen: or
2 - Hitch your knees up (girlie style) and steady the ship with side pressure from your legs/knees combo.:mrgreen:

Or you could fix the ballast resistor !:rolleyes: - its a bit safer but not as much fun!:D

My situ was that the engine would only run with continued pressure on the key - in the starter motor engaged position. Let go and the lights went out.

Cheers
Giles.