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I managed to chase up a couple of sets of European style power sockets so I can connect things to accessory or ignition on power .
Personally I don't like cig lighter sockets because they don't have any positive locking mechanism so can be unreliable .

My mechanic friend is a far better sparky than me and even had bits from an MY looms fuse box to fit two extra fuses into my standard L's fuse box .

The reason I needed a dedicated ignition on power supply is to run a Tech Edge wide band oxygen sensor controller box , it has to be powered up any time the engine is running or the probe heaters don't function and cool probes die after a while . It also means the wide band probe has to be removed if not electrically heated which is no prob because my down pipe has two threaded bosses ie for the std slow as a wet week narrow band probe and this other one . The second boss has a plug in it to prevent leaks if the wide band probe is removed .
Actually the Tech Edge box is smart enough to put out a simulated narrow band signal to keep std computers happy if you run it permanently installed .

The second socket yet to be connected to accessory power could be used for any 12v device ie light etc .
The cig lighter socket is still there minus the lighter bit and it can stay to charge the lap top for tuning the programmable computer when it goes in .

I know people have occasionally used these sockets connected directly across the battery terminals for charging purposes which is ok for pushing maybe 15 amps .

The fuses added to my fuse box are 10a mainly because being a different colour they stand out and should be fine .

Is anyone else using them for reasonably light duty power supplies ?

Cheers A .

I've got a marine grade cig lighter to put in the cargo area of my subi. When I did the EJ conversion I ran a heavy guage wire (can't remember amp rating) from the rear to the front near the battery. Plan is to install the dual battery system I picked up a while ago and run the socket off a relay that can be switched from the dash to be on all the time - purpose being for powering a fridge or something of the like later on...

I thought you planned to keep ellie basically stock from the beginning? I guess the plan changed??

Cheers

Bennie

Yeah things changed a bit because I can't get what I want from all factory bits . Unfortunately the computer manifold and turbo are too limiting , and injectors as well .

That Tech Edge wide band is going to be for tuning and diagnostics only in both my cars but they need power supplies to run it , and back up power for the lap top .

My mate searched for info on these 11mm power sockets and from memory Hella or Bosch do them rated at 32 amps , the usual ones are 15 or 16 amps .
Depending on what a 12v fridge draws you may want the 32a ones or even small series Anderson connectors .
My sockets are the better of at least two types of Narva branded socket - the male side has its earth shroud right around the fittings shank and not in just two strips like a cig accessory plug has . I found them in Repco after trying Superheap and Andersons , they either had none or the cheap nasty Chinese ones . I also noticed that Repco stocks automotive wire in 25 and 50 amp rating as well which is handy .

These two sockets with their nifty little spring loaded caps are literally the only non std components inside my 86 RX L Series , std right down to to original radio cassette player . Sorry the pedal box is non turbo L but you can't really see that .
The exhaust is a little larger at 2 1/4" but everything on the outside is std inc wheels and tyre size . The RX decals have been polished almost white by previous owners . If you looked underneath the anti roll bars are yellow and 50% and 25% larger back and front , the rear dampers are yellow Konis .
Under the lid the only obvious differences are the spider manifold and no spare wheel or brace , all the air con crap was ditched a while back .

I've clocked up about 66000 kays in this old girl ands it gets better with each upgrade .

Not much to look at by todays standards but it has a few tricks up its sleeve .

Cheers A .

anderson connectors are a PITA, but anyway they aren't made for often connect/disconnect cycles anyway. How much of your gear actually needs a 50,75 or 150Amp connection anyway?

cannon bayonet style are beaut, positive click locking, 20amp gold contacts,
i've used them for hooking up engel fridge n various ways. got them years ago from DSE, before they became a toy store
not cheap, even back then.
not sure where you might get them now, but they were associated with use in HIGH power audio setups, so that might be a clue as to where to find.....

The power connectors I ended up with are Narva ones but I did have problems with the plugs . There must be a quality control issue because not all plugs are radiused along their earth fingers and won't seat properly in the socket . The local REPCO did two re orders and it took 8 to get 2 good plugs .

I will look up Canon connectors but for low current draw these will work fine .

A .

then there is the aviation style ? plugs, think I have seen them in caravan accessory places or were they different again?