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can anyone tell from my pic how this wires up.were the wires need to be connected to..i think i know hut would rather not blow anything up if i,m wrong....thanks

Whats it for?

If its for a subaru, i wouldnt worry about it, they have a header tank that is designed to thermo-siphon the coolant through the turbo housing and back through the radiator once the engine is turned off.

Turbo timers were really only necessary when turbos weren't water cooled.

I have also heard that its illegal to leave your car running after you lock it.


At a guess, the red will be to the battery, the black will be ground, the yellow and the orange, one will go to the ignition switch, and the other will connect to the handbrake.

oh ok thanks mate....fisrt time owner of a turbo...i was going to put it on the GT lib

Yes factory water cooling makes a big difference .
It doesn't hurt to tone everything down in the last Km or two of your drive and do all the get bags and self out before shut down .

Turbo timers are a sales con , don't get sucked in cheers A .

"Turbo Timers are a sales con, don't get sucked in"
Well, this is all situational. There are so many factors to be put into account on the 'Turbo Timer' argument. Basically, Spirited driving, Hot or low speed high load driving(beach/bush) or towing all put massive strains on the turbocharger, engine, cooling and most importantly, oil delivery systems. The basic idea of a timer is to cycle an engine down after one of these driving scenarios. Turbochargers get insanely hot and well, insanely hot aint good after shutdown. If you are tight, drive sensibly, most people dont tear thier own neibhourhood up on the way home so if u are driving hard, ease it up when u are on the way home. Same goes for sand/scrub work. That way a timer isn't a nescessity. If however the situation arises where its not possible to cycle down and shutdown/exit of the vehicle is imminent a timer is a great and inexpensive tool. Its peace of mind in my books and we use them in all of our cars. I mean hell, Nissan cant be wrong when its suggested in the manual of both my GTR's that after heavy driving its recommended to let the engine idle for approximately 3 mins

i got a smart timer, it logs engine load by monitoring (engine revs and load?) cant remember, but it monitors 2 somethings over the last 5 minutes of driving and gives you variable shut down time. is fully tunable, and was about $50 as a kit from jaycar, also alarm friendly

Really one day Subaru are going to realise how stupid they are and start putting them into their cars as standard, I can't think why they havn't yet. I hear you can get turbo timers with inbuilt neon lights now.

Spare me , what manufacturer puts a remote shut down device in a turbo car ? They all have to provide warranty for a time but no turbo timer .

An RB26 is a pretty hardy engine but like most OEM turbo engines they don't like being shut down after they've had the urine bags flogged out of them .
The idle down business (a couple of minutes of easy running) is very straightforward and if you think its difficult go buy a Camry .

Now to the turbo/s . Most RB26's had bush bearing T28 turbos and bush turbos get a harder time than ball bearing ones because their bearing material is non ferrous and has a lot more contact area than the hardened steel balls do . They also have water cooling which takes about 90% of the dramas out of street driven turbo cars - from a reliability point of view .

Most people that intend to work a GTR (or any turbo car) hard do things to increase the cooling capacity of their engine , things like better radiators and maybe an air to air oil cooler instead of the oil to coolant heat exchanger . That takes care of the oil and coolant temps and I'm going to assume you run a good synthetic oil anyway , stupid not to .
Now the heat source that damages turbos dies when the engine shuts down , heat in the exhaust gas is what drives them .
Its the residual heat absorbed by iron exhaust manifold/s and the turbine housing's that wants to fry the oil in the turbos bearing housings and bake it onto the turbine shaft and bearing bushes - or balls/races . The water cooling works by absorbing the heat from the thermal mass of the manifolds/housings long enough to drop their temps below the point where it wants to cook the oil in the turbos center section .
Good synthetic oil can live at higher temperatures than normal mineral oil so it gives a better margin of reliability .

Turbo timers , besides being illegal , are for those too lazy to do the right thing by their car .

My 2c , cheers A .

i have one, its off most of the time driving around town, its only after a hiway run i use it, especially when towing the camper i set it for longer. if i have been giving the car shit around town i will just wait a little longer before shutdown when i stop.

I have heard of a turbo diesel pajero the turbo seized on because it was driven hard the pulled up and shut down straight away all the time! so they are a good idea as such.

bryan

All you have to do is make sure you aren't flogging the piss out of it for the last couple of minutes of driving - How is that so hard? And this is only with older turbo setups too, Subaru's it's not even so important because of the turbo cooling system, but it can't hurt to do it anyway.
I think timers were more of a fad about 5 years ago, I hardly ever see cars idling down using them these days.

Provided it wasn't some other issue - like top up fools who refuse to change oil/filters etc - if it was driven as the manufacturer intends it shouldn't have a problem . If anything turbochargers get an easier trime on a diesel engine because the exhaust gas temperature is significantly lower .

Look you see it all the time , some young or not so young fool lairising around the place in a turbo something and because he/she didn't kill it the first time out they keep the brain dead practises up until it dies . And OF COURSE - its the turbos fault because fools don't like admitting they cause their own downfalls .

Mostly it's simple cause and effect , you have a turbocharged engine so you look after the thing and it lives a long and reliable life - provided it is properly serviced and NOT abused .
Sadly many can't resist the temptation to "turn up the boost - a little" , then drive it like they stole it and wonder why things go bang . There are some very smart cookies out there tuning very significant power increases into production turbo engines reliably because they take steps to reject the greater heat output with better intercooling/radiator/oil cooling /tuning etc . They don't run lean or overly hot on the exhaust side and a close eye is kept on the detonation devil .

More boost more heat and deeper into the engineering reserves the manufacturer put in place .

I have a LOT more respect for those that that do the extra oil and water cooling if they intend to work a production turbo engine hard , its what manufacturers do to serious high performance production cars because they expect them to be driven harder .

I get to play with big turbo diesel prime movers in locomotives and a well maintained one can scream away at 20-30 km/h cranking out 3000 Kw all day/night or till its exhausted its 12500L fuel tank . EMD and GE go to a lot of trouble to beat the heat . No turbo timer .

If you use your turbo car as a tow motor you'll pretty soon see how the extra heat output lifts oil/water/air temperatures because your not doing warp 9 to load the engine up . Every manufacturer I know says extra cooling is need to cope with this because its not what most consider normal use - for a road car which is what all these Subarus are designed to be .

A .

bloody hell enough of the essays!

So Disco, how exactly does a turbo work? And how can I expect to get more performance out of my EA82T?

You won't live long enough to read all twenty four volumes ...

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... enter.html

http://www.turbochargedpower.com/History.htm